Alibro
Well-Known Member
Might be worth calling back and let them know. They should try again for free this time.
I think I'll leave that one. I will have a look at the TRE tomorrow and I might even drop the shock out for a look. I will also just double check the lower engine mount on the drivers side.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Check out post #104. No pics but some usefull info if you haven't done it before.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/looks-like-ive-done-it-again-doh.293904/page-6
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I also have a knock on the offside front. It's quite obvious on small bumps and speed humps. However it vanishes when the brakes are applied, even gently. I've yet to find the cause, but I've not replaced everything suspension wise yet. I've done the drop links and rod ends. The drip links cured the rattling ARB but not the knock. Investigation will continue
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Alibro
Well-Known Member
Years ago I had a bad rattle from my front wheels on an old Golf after replacing the brake pads. Guess I didn't refit the pad anti-rattle springs properly.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Pads can chatter if the shims are missing. My knock is heavier than pad rattle though. I can feel it through the foot well too. I don't quite know where it's coming from, but I will. I also discovered that I have a creak at the back when the rear suspension is exercised, like when going off road. I'm putting that down to the springs twisting in the seats.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Sounds similar to mine but as you say it is hard to describe. I'll report back when I've tried the replacement strut.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Have you replaced the rear wishbone bush?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The rear bush has control buffer pads on the front face. These contact a buffer plate on the rear of the wishbone. The buffers can wear down as they contact the rusty buffer plate on the arm. As the rubber buffers wear, the gap increases, possibly making noise on contact with the plate. There's a maximum gap allowed but I can't remember what it is off hand. I'm thinking that my knock is caused by this, but I've yet to check the gap.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
I have a new bush sitting there but convinced myself it wasn't needed. You just put enough doubt in my head that I will fit one tomorrow and see what happens.
The thickness of the buffers never occurred to me as important.
If it works I'll kick myself for not fitting it but then again if I had I wouldn't have known it was the culprit as I would have replaced the wishbone at the same time.
Watch this space.
Having said that I used red rubber grease all over the bush your talking about.
The thickness of the buffers never occurred to me as important.
If it works I'll kick myself for not fitting it but then again if I had I wouldn't have known it was the culprit as I would have replaced the wishbone at the same time.
Watch this space.
Having said that I used red rubber grease all over the bush your talking about.
I have a new bush sitting there but convinced myself it wasn't needed. You just put enough doubt in my head that I will fit one tomorrow and see what happens.
The thickness of the buffers never occurred to me as important.
If it works I'll kick myself for not fitting it but then again if I had I wouldn't have known it was the culprit as I would have replaced the wishbone at the same time.
Watch this space.
Having said that I used red rubber grease all over the bush your talking about.
Do post back as I am curious as to whether you find the culprit.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
This is an interesting read.
http://www.myfreelander.co.uk/Suspension/suspprobs1.htm
It gives an idea of the clearance needed. However it's referring to an earlier Freelander so I'd have thought that you would have the later washers it makes reference to.
Did you see a roll pin in the bush mount when you had it apart?
http://www.myfreelander.co.uk/Suspension/suspprobs1.htm
It gives an idea of the clearance needed. However it's referring to an earlier Freelander so I'd have thought that you would have the later washers it makes reference to.
Did you see a roll pin in the bush mount when you had it apart?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Although my money is still on a knocking strut valve.
Interesting. Is there a way of diagnosing this as I have tried bouncing the vehicle by standing on the drivers side cill, but am unable to get any noise.
No roll pin in the bush mount on either side, but I did use a 5mm drill bit as a locator when I refitted the rear bushing.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Now he tells me!
I just spent over an hour taking the bush apart then another thirty minutes getting the new bush into the alloy cradle and it made no difference. Grrrr
To be honest I'm not surprised, the rear bush was in good condition (until I butchered it) so my money was on the strut. It is the only thing left unchanged on that corner.
Top tip. DON'T BUY A BARE BUSH! If you value your fingers, tools, time and sanity buy the bush and alloy cradle complete.
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I thought that was common knowledge ;-)
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Nobody likes a smart arse!
LOL, Yeah I knew it would be a pain to change but I didn't think I would need them, the were only there 'just in case'
BTW I had another listen to your sound clip and your noise is almost identical to mine (if you mean the occasional sound I hear mostly at around 1:04 + 1:36/37 and not the continuous mixer noise). My money is defo now on the strut.
BTW why does your car sound like a cement mixer? Have you a dodgy wheel bearing as well?
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