A

ashleywood.ash

Active Member
Hi guys,
Removing my broken engine tomorrow morning to swap it for a working one.
It's a 200tdi disco engine in a 110 defender and is the 'set back to the bulkhead' fitment.

Researched it a bit but as I have never removed one just checking for last minute tips, like best place to start, and short cuts etc

Will be doing it by myself with a mobile engine crane
 
Remove whole front grill and rad panel, makes life a doddle, you can do it without, but why struggle?
 
undo everything before lifting it and dont forget the pas pipes or the engine earth lol..

You can remove the bumper to get the crane closer and rad/front end to get it out but when i did mine the other month i took the floor pans out first, flywheel bolts, electrics i unplugged from the loom and removed the glow plug wire, then coolant pipes and other cables ect, lifted straight up and over the front challenge wings n everything
 
ashleywood.ash said:
How is best to disconnect from gearbox, can I get to bolts from inside?
Click to expand...
Remove the transmission tunnel and floor panels to give you good access to the bolts around the gearbox, if you remove the power steering pump off the front of the engine you won't have to worry about draining the fluid
 
Kwakerman said:
Rusted in screws normally so have a grinder to hand
Click to expand...
They are a mix of big pozi and big slot head, make sure you use the correct screwdriver!
Replacement screw are available from your local Indy.
Nuts and bolts hold the sill to floor plate area, they will be well rusted.
I used stainless steel replacements in that area.
I can get all my tunnel/floor plates out in 15 mins, if yours have never been out and are rusty expect lots of cursing
 
Ok all good so far and ready for removal
Connected my crane up to the 2 lifting eyes on the head and ready to lift.
Lifted a little and no movement at mounts at all and bell housing still sealed. It just lifted the whole car upwards so stopped there.
The studs are still in the mounts and the studs are still in the bell housing as I just removed the nuts. Is this likely to be my problem?
 
have you undone the engine mounts 17mm bolts lol...
I self tap my floor pans down for ease.

you could do with someone lifing it all up and someone else giving it a push and kick from undernearth, it will go like anything else will.

Maybe keep lifting until it splits at the bottom then lower a little and brute force to pull back. Its easier to see and do than to type
 
Not looking forward to put other one back in. Lining up bell housing studs and mounts whilst avoiding turbo and manifold will be a right pain
 
Have you got one of those adjustable bar things that go on the engine hoist to level the engine? Makes it a bit easier
 
Dont know if this is any help when your putting it back in, old chap who was passing when i was putting mine back in said to
extend a couple of studs that go to the bell housing with a bit of T bar (m8 i think) about 100mm.
remove the studs, replace with T bar, helps you guide it back in easy (ish). then remove, worked for me.
Cracked open a bottle or 3 or red (wine not diesel) and delivered him home to his wife after he said he was popping out for a moment and being gone for 12hrs.
he was only coming to show me some photos of him on a ship with a deck full of series 1s and 2s. heading out east.
Good old landrovers.
 
ashleywood.ash said:
Not looking forward to put other one back in. Lining up bell housing studs and mounts whilst avoiding turbo and manifold will be a right pain
Click to expand...
Remove the rubber mounts before re fitting and/or jack up the front of the gearbox which means sending the engine home at an angle to match the gearbox. Lift the engine, attached to the box, high up until you can squeeze the mounts back in.
Two people on the job helps loads or else you're constantly up top and then under every bloody 30 secs..
 
I used one of these to get the large screws out of the floor panels.
IMG_2374.JPG
 
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