As title says, today both lights came on and I also have no brake lights or reverse lights! could this just be the brake pedal switch as some of my research suggest? I was just a bin concerned with the reverse lights not working as iv not long put a new reverse switch in.

many thanks
 
As title says, today both lights came on and I also have no brake lights or reverse lights! could this just be the brake pedal switch as some of my research suggest? I was just a bin concerned with the reverse lights not working as iv not long put a new reverse switch in.

many thanks
I've had no brake lights and no reverse lights before. Also windscreen wipers intermittently worked and HDC yellow fail light coming on in occasionally, on the dash. Turned out to be the switch on the rear of the ignition. Mine was 2001 v6 auto.
 
Because the brake lights aren't coming on you should replace the brake light switch is located on the brake pedal, that should also sort out the hill decent and traction lights coming on also.
 
I've had no brake lights and no reverse lights before. Also windscreen wipers intermittently worked and HDC yellow fail light coming on in occasionally, on the dash. Turned out to be the switch on the rear of the ignition. Mine was 2001 v6 auto.

Hippo where about is the switch on the rear of the ignition, this may be the cause of my intermittent traction and HDC light issue?
 
HDC + ETC amber warning lights is almost certainly a failed brake pedal switch.

Check the switch - if it is the old style one then just get a new one and stick it in. The design of the old style switch is very crappy.

Cheers
Simon
 
Because the brake lights aren't coming on you should replace the brake light switch is located on the brake pedal, that should also sort out the hill decent and traction lights coming on also.
He also has failed reverse lights. See test below.

Hippo where about is the switch on the rear of the ignition, this may be the cause of my intermittent traction and HDC light issue?
Brake pedal switch is the first to check with your problems.

On the rear of the ignition. :pound:

Mines a 2001 v6 auto which may be different to others so not everything in the link below will be the same. Auto's have a shift lock to stop them being started when the auto in NOT in Park or Neutral. Thats the plastic clip thing with the spring in the pic's.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/turn-ignition-nothing-sometimes-221156.html

The ignition switch has several contacts. As the switch turns it connects different circuits to allow power to the electrics, power to the starter when in position 3 only, but no power to the starter if the engine starts and you let go of the key. You may find yer engine doesn't start or make a sound (no starter motor running), but if you turn the ignition on and leave it "trying to start" in position 3 it may start after 10 or more seconds. This is often the switch on the rear of the ignition. It could also be the starter motor. You can take the switch on the rear of the ignition apart and clean the contacts with a small bit of sand paper, but this is ONLY a temporary fix.

I've had several fail. No brake lights and no revervse lights was also caused by the switch on the rear of the ignition. The contacts don't necersarily go open circuit. They get a black burn mark on them. This means there's a poor contact across the switch contact. To test this turn the key to put the electric on only and see if the brake/reverse lights work. They probably will. Now start the engine. Brake and reverse lights won't work. The poor contact creates a volt drop across the contact. You can also measure the voltage coming out of the switch buy measuring the volts coming out of the fag lighter socker, for easy access. that only measures 1 contact so it may be another contact causing the problem instead.
 
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