Bigandy658
Member
Hi all just changed my front right hight sensor because it was reading -2
Put the new one on and still reading the same. Anyone no why?
Put the new one on and still reading the same. Anyone no why?
Bigandy658
Member
The suspension won't drop it started to say clear obstacle
So bought a icarsoft 3 tester and it came up with front right sensor Reading -2 so I bought another one and still reads the same. Also C1A13-64 will not vent. I have now replaced all 4 sensors, all blocks and compressor. But still read -2 front right and C1A13-64
So bought a icarsoft 3 tester and it came up with front right sensor Reading -2 so I bought another one and still reads the same. Also C1A13-64 will not vent. I have now replaced all 4 sensors, all blocks and compressor. But still read -2 front right and C1A13-64
Bigandy658
Member
Yes clearly the fault but as soon as you touch the suspension button it comes on again. But I think the hight sensor at -2 might be a separate issue
May need recalibrating. You haven't said what car yet?
Bigandy658
Member
Sorry l320 rrs 2006
Bigandy658
Member
Sorry L320 RRS 2006
Ah I think they have more in common with a Disco 3.
Bigandy658
Member
Bigandy658
Member
My main issue is the sensor reading -1 mm hight
Bigandy658
Member
Ok thank you
Liverghouls
Member
If you re calibrate height sensors to correct height will that or can that have a connection in why is throwing up the cannot vent c1a13 fault code too , so in other words if ive replaced compressor and dodgy sensor but the same faults still.showing will recalibration get rid ? As tried clearing codes with tool not working ,thanks .
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Calibration is required after changing a height sensor. As to whether it will clear the fault, I have no idea.
1mm ?? Not a lot to worry about.
Also sorry to be pedantic, but your spell checker is broken or 8 = "ight" ?
The 1mm is from a different poster.
Ah, the good old C1A13-64, a familiar friend of a code to me. I've learned a lot about that one.
Most likely to be either the drier unit in the compressor or the noise suppressor from my experience. You say you've changed the compressor but was a new/refurb unit and did you change the drier?
I don't want to cover it all again here but have a read of my thread on this issue, it's a long first post but I am sure the info you need is in there so do read it in detail, happy to help out where I can after that.
www.landyzone.co.uk
Most likely to be either the drier unit in the compressor or the noise suppressor from my experience. You say you've changed the compressor but was a new/refurb unit and did you change the drier?
I don't want to cover it all again here but have a read of my thread on this issue, it's a long first post but I am sure the info you need is in there so do read it in detail, happy to help out where I can after that.
L322 - Solved - C1A13-64 (AF) Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery
As many of you are aware, I have been battling a whole bunch of red herrings and silly issues with my L322 in another couple of threads which I'll link here for completeness...
www.landyzone.co.uk
Liverghouls
Member
Hi this is the piece of my Landrover original compressor is this the silencer ? I put this piece safe for some reason ,and would it benefit from another hole being drilled into this ? Or shall I try putting this onto new compressor and see if solved ?
Well, it's different to mine as your one lives outside the car it doesn't need to be as quiet. I assume you didn't buy a new compressor? If that piece flows air nicely then it should be fine and I expect your other one is too.
Start with the basics. Take that part out of the currently fitted compressor and test it, it will be loud but it if it works fine then your issue is there and it probably needs cleaning out but I don't see value in drilling extra holes in that type of silencer, it won't clog like the brass ones.
I'll keep coming back to the drier unit though, we need to know if that is new or not. Basically your car is telling you it can't vent enough air when it expects to so you either have:
A blocked silencer (unlikely seeing what it looks like)
A clogged drier unit
A non-working exhaust valve - that usually presents a different error although I have no idea on the code but it's in my linked threads.
The Discoveries and RRS can suffer from the compressor bushings failing which you'd have seen when you replaced it I expect but in case you didn't or they aren't that bad yet, it's worth checking the wiring to the exhaust valve as I have seen them chafe on the bracket. It doesn't always rub through the wire but it break down the insulation and then you'll get high resistance and poor connectivity on the exhaust valve which might also cause this problem. If so yo need to cut out that wiring and solder in a replacement section with heatshrink and proper insulation, don't bodge it with crimp connectors or you'll be doing it again next year!
EDIT: Just realised this reply isn't to the OP, is it two of you with the same issue or are you both working on the same car? Most of this still stands of course, just interested to know.
Start with the basics. Take that part out of the currently fitted compressor and test it, it will be loud but it if it works fine then your issue is there and it probably needs cleaning out but I don't see value in drilling extra holes in that type of silencer, it won't clog like the brass ones.
I'll keep coming back to the drier unit though, we need to know if that is new or not. Basically your car is telling you it can't vent enough air when it expects to so you either have:
A blocked silencer (unlikely seeing what it looks like)
A clogged drier unit
A non-working exhaust valve - that usually presents a different error although I have no idea on the code but it's in my linked threads.
The Discoveries and RRS can suffer from the compressor bushings failing which you'd have seen when you replaced it I expect but in case you didn't or they aren't that bad yet, it's worth checking the wiring to the exhaust valve as I have seen them chafe on the bracket. It doesn't always rub through the wire but it break down the insulation and then you'll get high resistance and poor connectivity on the exhaust valve which might also cause this problem. If so yo need to cut out that wiring and solder in a replacement section with heatshrink and proper insulation, don't bodge it with crimp connectors or you'll be doing it again next year!
EDIT: Just realised this reply isn't to the OP, is it two of you with the same issue or are you both working on the same car? Most of this still stands of course, just interested to know.
