C

Cheshire Landy

New Member
Hi there. The high pressure ACE pipe from the pump to the valve block has worn through on my 1999 td5. Is it difficult to replace? RAVE says remove the valve block (and cooling fan). Is that all necessary? Can't you just remove the offending pipe from the block - how are they connected? And where do I cut the existing (one piece) pipe to get it out the easiest.

Basically, is it worth having go at or shall I get it towed to the significant distance to the nearest independent? I was only 50yds from home when it blew so hopefully the ACE pump will be ok...

Any advice on this procedure would be extremely gratefully received.

Thanks...
 
I've replaced just my rear pipes myself and it wasnt a killer. Anyway i don't see why should u remove the valve block for that....maybe just the fan to have access to the pump connection) ....try to work only with the pipe... before that get hold of a connector seal (part nr. RVW100010) which will leak after u removed it and put it back ...the pipe is pushed into this seal and held to the valve block with a retaining plate fixed with 2 bolts. When u push the new pipe/seal into the valve block u'll need some muscles. IMO it's a DIY job for a tool friendly man.
 
Just had rear pipe corrode through, was 30 miles from home and on a mission so I took the decision to carry on. Probably screwed the pump but very tempted to ditch the ACE. Does it actually make a lot of difference?

It's a 2000 disco, running 255/55 18 tyres. Half time spent towing 3500kg trailer.

N
 
If u stillhave the SLS it's better to keep the ACE, usually they are working together.....on coil suspension it doesnt make a big difference.
 
Dissy is on coil springs.
Thinking at the moment is replumb the ACE pump in a loop to act as an idler, and remove the ACE pipes and switchgear underneath. Then away to the MOT station.

N
 
Thanks for the advice - I'll start to take the old one off - I guess that will tell me how hard it is! I can always send it to a garage if that fails....

Mine's got the air suspension - am I right in reading here that it's best to keep hold of the ACE in this case rather than dumping it?

Cheers


(1999 Disco 2 TD5 ES Auto)
 
IMO ... YES ....anyway just a pipe relacement will not be more expensive in return it'll be easyer than an total conversion to ARB's.
 
best to check condition of all pipes as when one goes the others may not last a lot longer and its not an easy job i was quoted an aprox price of over a thousand to replace front pipes from my local landy guy
 
Is there an option to replace the just the part of the pipe that is leaking? I got a hydraulic hose made up and used a compression fitting to join to the existing ACE pipe. Worked a treat.

This thread gives a link to a place selling high pressure compression fittings which look suitable for the high pressure side.

http://www.lro.com/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=68796

Cheers, Andy
 
Last edited:
HI, I've decided to go with 2 new rear pipes, found 2 at £75 each plus vat, still way too much money but I've made a new contact locally for britpart bits and slightly discounted original bits. Happy bunny.
Computer at RipOff landrover said cost price to them is £63.
N
 
looking for some help, I had a leak in my high pressure pipe so I read forums and ended up having the hose to the pipe replaced. I am trying to get the pipe end back in and am having trouble. it will only go in about halfway. do I need to remove the plastic fitting? I dont want to damage anything by applying too much pressure. Can anyone offer advice as to how to get the pipe back into the block under the passenger side? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
the seal pack inside the block, if that is what you are referring to looks flush and does not look damaged. the pipe goes in about 1/2" and stops. it appears it needs to go in until the lip makes contact with the block. I am not the one who removed it as i am having a local mechanic friend help me do this job. parts look fine, just wont go in more than 1/2". should i take the plastic part out of the block and fit it on the pipe and try and insert? I dont want to apply too much force and break anything.
 
those seals are made so that if you removed a pipe once you need a new seal too even if it looks well, in 99% of cases they will leak if the pipe was removed, and 100% the seal will leak if it was removed.... you better replace the seal with a new one and IMO the pipe will fit then... i think the old connection is disturbed inside and blocks the pipe. ACE Pipe Seal (Valve Block End) RVW100010 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.
 
I had problem with damaged ace pipes , took it to my local hydraulics garage they cut out all the bits they could get to and replaced with heavy duty stuff, problem solved and a bargin at £100 all in . No leaks and works great
 
Having had one pipe replaced by independent dealer, I now find oil leaking out of the ACE block. Another Independent dealer has suggested removal of the ACE system, but NOT fitting Anti-roll bars - they remove the system, fit idler pulley & redo ECU for £300.. It is a town vehicle, and they suggest I try it first and see how it handles before shelling out for ARB kits. Is this wise advice ? I no longer have the stomach (or the funds) to try to keep on top of the ACE system and its problems. ?
 
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