Any cause please. Oil level , temp all OK. Kwik fit tested exhaust and manifold all no leaks.

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Nodge68 said:
Sounds like crankshaft pulley delamination to me. Check of silvery dust around the pulley area.
Click to expand...
Hi Nodge I am going to use the light on pully wheel and see for metal dust and let you know. For the last 20 years, I only changed all filters including crankcase filter once and oil changes. Still all engine has original parts now nearing to 88k miles.
Would you suggest a timing belt and pulley change, how about thermostat and water pump. I really want keep this engine. Any parts that needing change at 88k miles. Thank you in advance.
 
Anan said:
Hi Nodge I am going to use the light on pully wheel and see for metal dust and let you know. For the last 20 years, I only changed all filters including crankcase filter once and oil changes. Still all engine has original parts now nearing to 88k miles.
Would you suggest a timing belt and pulley change, how about thermostat and water pump. I really want keep this engine. Any parts that needing change at 88k miles. Thank you in advance.
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It doesn't have a timing belt, it has a timing chain instead. There's nothing big that needs changing at 88k, which is nothing for this engine as long as the oil and filter is replaced on time.
The drive belts could be replaced if needed, and worth doing at the same time as the crank pulley.
The thermostat is a ball ache to do, so most people simply fit a Renault 5 thermostat in the top hose instead. The water pump only needs changing when it leaks, which isn't often.
 
Nodge68 said:
It doesn't have a timing belt, it has a timing chain instead. There's nothing big that needs changing at 88k, which is nothing for this engine as long as the oil and filter is replaced on time.
The drive belts could be replaced if needed, and worth doing at the same time as the crank pulley.
The thermostat is a ball ache to do, so most people simply fit a Renault 5 thermostat in the top hose instead. The water pump only needs changing when it leaks, which isn't often.
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Hi To my surprise I shined a led torch and found fine silvery deposit around belt area. Took a picture. So what you said is true. What should I do now?
 

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Anan said:
Hi To my surprise I shined a led torch and found fine silvery deposit around belt area. Took a picture. So what you said is true. What should I do now?
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Get it replaced ASAP, and only use a Corteco or Dayco replacement.
I use Advanced Factors for LR parts.

Td4 Crankshaft Pulley

Land Rover Freelander Td4 Crankshaft
www.advancedfactors.co.uk www.advancedfactors.co.uk
 
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This is the bargain of the year for me, and it's what you need, you would also need the bolt,
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As opposed to this one.

Add new auxiliary belt.
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and compressor belt at the same time. that way it should be ok for another 80,000 plus.
 
Sorry one more question should I change the drive belt at the same time in case damaged considering the labour
 
Anan said:
Sorry one more question should I change the drive belt at the same time in case damaged considering the labour
Click to expand...
The drive belts have to be removed to replace the pulley, so it makes sense to put new ones back on.
 
Hi Got the parts from advanced factors and got a mobile mechanic to do the job. He was at it, the 24mm upper tensioner bolt quite difficult to move to get the belt off, requires a thin ring spanner to access, Cranck pulley bolt also really hard to undo due to rust on the long threaded bolt probably requires heating. I think car need to go on a ramp for better access and oxyacetylene heating to remove the pulley bolt. Looks simple but require elbow grease and right tools.
 
Don't use an impact wrench, the crankshaft will fracture. Maybe not immediately but later !!
Castle shaped tool holds the pulley to release the bolt.
 
See here for picture of the crank holding tool. The tensioner is easy if you remove the engine undertray and use a flat (not angled) aviation spanner.

I used that holding tool plus 2ft breaker bar & 22m socket to undo ours. Squirt loads of penetrating fluid around the bolt head. Then go for cuppa for 30mins at least. Finally a steady pull on the breaker bar and the bolt will shift. No need for impact, and definitely do NOT try the starter motor trick some have posted online.

Once the auxiliary belt is are off, it's easy to see if the rubber has failed. The rear section of the pulley will be wobbly, even with the hub still bolted to the crank.
 
pwood999 said:
See here for picture of the crank holding tool. The tensioner is easy if you remove the engine undertray and use a flat (not angled) aviation spanner.

I used that holding tool plus 2ft breaker bar & 22m socket to undo ours. Squirt loads of penetrating fluid around the bolt head. Then go for cuppa for 30mins at least. Finally a steady pull on the breaker bar and the bolt will shift. No need for impact, and definitely do NOT try the starter motor trick some have posted online.

Once the auxiliary belt is are off, it's easy to see if the rubber has failed. The rear section of the pulley will be wobbly, even with the hub still bolted to the crank.
Click to expand...
Thank you pwood
 
Anan said:
Hi Got the parts from advanced factors and got a mobile mechanic to do the job. He was at it, the 24mm upper tensioner bolt quite difficult to move to get the belt off, requires a thin ring spanner to access, Cranck pulley bolt also really hard to undo due to rust on the long threaded bolt probably requires heating. I think car need to go on a ramp for better access and oxyacetylene heating to remove the pulley bolt. Looks simple but require elbow grease and right tools.
Click to expand...
Hi Nodge, Postmortem done on 88k completed original drive pulley on the td4 engine, see pic, visible cracks almost ready to explode, as it accepts 2 drive belts 2 pulleys sandwiched somewhat look like, looked corroded, but lots of rattle when examined.
Got a new pulley and belt fitted, reasonable garage, labour cost £80. He had all the tools 24mm open end ring he used to release the belt tensioner and got old belt off. Then old centre bolt came off without heating, he carefully used a socket on the head with moderate force, no lubricants or free sprays used. The bolt thread looked grey or ash colour, no damage to thread. It was a relief as I had read some horror stories transmitting force to crankshaft. He says new cars have 4 bolts drive pulley system. they are bit easier to handle than one bolt drive pulley.
Less than an hour, all completed. No tyres removed for access proper hydraulic ramp to get to working height adjusted up and down, threading the new belt on is bit tricky as needed access from top and bottom. He used a ladder. All went well.
Thanks Nodge for your top diagnosis. Now td4 engine ticking like music to my ears. No rattle.or bad firing or excessive engine noise. Once again, Thank you Dr. Nodge and all others commented on this thread most appreciated.
 

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