I've just done one on the trans tunnel (well, actually the whole of the front floor of the cab) - actually made quite a difference, but not enough - hadn't considered the bonnet - there's such a whopping big gap around it that it doesn't seem worth it?

Try it, makes a huge difference. And soundproofing is all about weight. The proper sound mat is very heavy. Cheap foam etc doesnt do the same.
 

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Unclip the white connector off the back of the switch. Inside the white connector will be terminals. Poke them with your tester probe, one of them should be live with ignition switched on.

No idea which colour, if you have a a manual with a wiring diagram it will say.
 
Thanks not had a chance yet lol. I made the bulb holder tester you suggested so got two wires to poke in. Will try fonding a diagram

Cheers
 
Thanks not had a chance yet lol. I made the bulb holder tester you suggested so got two wires to poke in. Will try fonding a diagram

Cheers

Poke one wire in, run the other to battery negative terminal. When you contact the live, bulb will light! :)
 
Hehe the diy tool i made wont reach that far. Will have to extend them. Thanks for advice though. Will let u know how i get in. Not enough time in a day lol

Cheers
 
Still not tested it yet. Looking a a wiring diagram it seems that the switch works when the sidelights are on. And the switch for side and rear lights are on seperate switch on the dash pod (not on stalk where should be). So thinking this might be why the dash/courtesy light switch does nothing. Can i just run a new wire to the switch?
 
Still not tested it yet. Looking a a wiring diagram it seems that the switch works when the sidelights are on. And the switch for side and rear lights are on seperate switch on the dash pod (not on stalk where should be). So thinking this might be why the dash/courtesy light switch does nothing. Can i just run a new wire to the switch?

Thats not going to help much if there is already power going to the switch, and it is the switch itself failed.
 

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