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Azzymodo

Member
Hello all, never thought for one minute I’d be part of such a hallowed community, but having recently taken the plunge and acquired relatively inexpensively (or so I believe looking at some of the prices being asked of these) from work asset disposal, a Defender 90 TD5 Hard Top (54) with 58k miles and lots of tlc needed, I may we’ll be in need of some expert advice and mostly some encouragement, some major surgery definitely needed under the hood, the outside mostly cosmetic, so I will definitely have some questions...

Be gentle, I really am new when it comes to these magnificent beasts :)
 
Hi and welcome!

Yup, we like pics! Don’t forget some decent security for the new Landy though. They are easily nicked.
 
Welcome Aboard :)

Security upgrades are, sadly a necessity :(:mad: .... worth a search on here for some relevant threads .... 'specially on trackers ;)
 
Thanks for the reply! A couple of crap pics to start with until I get the company logo removed from the sides / doors, already stripped out a lot to start cleaning it up inside (easy jobs first till I get my way around the engine bay)
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Thanks Disco1BFG I’ll have a look round, for now it’s undriveable but you never know, might have it on the toad sooner than I hoped with help
 
Tracking devices, steering wheel lock, pedal lock, electric cut-off. Try clutch claw for the pedal lick. The more you fit, the better.
 
That looks in decent nick :) - rear cross member looks at the stage of just rusty enough to motivate "one" to do something about it, but not rusty enough to be a complete PITA to deal with ... What's the chassis like underneath - specially the known trouble spots ?

Plenty of info on here about rust conversion / treatment - search for Bilt Hamber / Dinitrol / Fertan ....

IMHO, unless you want it to rust away before your eyes:eek: don't get "underseal" anywhere near it:)
 
Disco1BFG said:
That looks in decent nick :) - rear cross member looks at the stage of just rusty enough to motivate "one" to do something about it, but not rusty enough to be a complete PITA to deal with ... What's the chassis like underneath - specially the known trouble spots ?

Plenty of info on here about rust conversion / treatment - search for Bilt Hamber / Dinitrol / Fertan ....

IMHO, unless you want it to rust away before your eyes:eek: don't get "underseal" anywhere near it:)
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Cheers for the advice I’ll take it ;-) - it actually doesn’t look too bad anywhere, I think it’s been kept in an industrial shed most of its life, worst thing about it is coal dust but I’m getting through most of that and it’s coming up nice and clean... even if I’m not :)
 
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Disco1BFG said:
That looks in decent nick :) - rear cross member looks at the stage of just rusty enough to motivate "one" to do something about it, but not rusty enough to be a complete PITA to deal with ... What's the chassis like underneath - specially the known trouble spots ?

Plenty of info on here about rust conversion / treatment - search for Bilt Hamber / Dinitrol / Fertan ....

IMHO, unless you want it to rust away before your eyes:eek: don't get "underseal" anywhere near it:)
Click to expand...
Also cleaned up the plastic and removed the corroded bumper and it’s looking a lot better already lol

To be honest it needs a bit of welding and a new driver door bulkhead sorted and a new driver door (think a series military door has been put on in place of the original, plus there’s a load of work on the engine (gearbox and diff etc) plus a bit of knocking out here and there but essentially it’s in relatively decent nick
 
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Azzymodo said:
worst thing about it is coal dust
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? Ex NCB ? or ex coal merchant ? funny thing for a 90 to be used for tho o_O :)

Donkeys year ago we bought a very second hand forklift .... we didn't know much of the history .... but we found out when it warmed up .... it smelt of Digestives ..... bl@@dy marvelous ... obviously ex biscuit factory :D ..... always made me hungry ;)
 
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