robtd52003
New Member
I am looking for 1 I can drill a hole in it to fit the pressure kit to bleed the brakes - all caps in the pressure kit are screw so need to make my own.
Welcome to the forum.
There is an Introduce Yourself section you could go to and do just that!
If you are looking to use an "eezibleed" kit, best of British luck.
I have one and gave up using it ages ago. Especially when the cap blew off and sprayed the engine bay with brake fluid.
Some have managed to have luck with them, mind.
There are other, simpler OMO kits you can use.
robtd52003
New Member
Can you please send me a link please as I need something to bleed the clutch tried pumping it still spongy at the top.
Sorry, I thought you were asking about the brakes as that is what the title says as does your post talking about the brake fluid reservoir.
Could you please clarify which it is?
robtd52003
New Member
The clutch is fed from the brake reservoir so i want to put pressure through the line to push air out. Hope that makes sense.
Now you are talking!
I only have an auto D2 so did not know.
Quicker than telling you, click on this link, there are several posts and threads there from this forum.
don't worry, you are not the first to have a problem with this.
Plus 1 in those being terrible, threw mine in the bin , oh wow mate , hope u was ok and bet that made u jump
did get a decent pressure brake / clutch bleeder in the end which also came with a metal cap , proper pushfit for the pipe attachment
Must confess I always thought the caps were the same size throughout various other land rovers , under like a European style plse but expect I’m thinking of something else
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Pawl
Well-Known Member
I think same style caps may have been fitted to Rover 200, 400, 600 & 800 type cars of a similar age.
I did the same thing you're proposing quite a few years ago (Before I developed a helpful wife
).
I think I got the cap I adapted from a Rover 216.
Beware there's a fair bit of work to make the cap seal properly for brake bleeding use as there is an inbuilt vent path designed to let air into the reservoir and the electrical contacts aren't sealed into the cap - just force fitted during assembly, so will leak air if left in place.
I ended up just bodging something that I could put onto the reservoir neck top with a large enough flange that I could clamp it down by strapping something around the mastercylinder and reservoir and keeping the bleed pressure low.
I did the same thing you're proposing quite a few years ago (Before I developed a helpful wife
).I think I got the cap I adapted from a Rover 216.
Beware there's a fair bit of work to make the cap seal properly for brake bleeding use as there is an inbuilt vent path designed to let air into the reservoir and the electrical contacts aren't sealed into the cap - just force fitted during assembly, so will leak air if left in place.
I ended up just bodging something that I could put onto the reservoir neck top with a large enough flange that I could clamp it down by strapping something around the mastercylinder and reservoir and keeping the bleed pressure low.
I think same style caps may have been fitted to Rover 200, 400, 600 & 800 type cars of a similar age.
I did the same thing you're proposing quite a few years ago (Before I developed a helpful wife
I think I got the cap I adapted from a Rover 216.
Beware there's a fair bit of work to make the cap seal properly for brake bleeding use as there is an inbuilt vent path designed to let air into the reservoir and the electrical contacts aren't sealed into the cap - just force fitted during assembly, so will leak air if left in place.
I ended up just bodging something that I could put onto the reservoir neck top with a large enough flange that I could clamp it down by strapping something around the mastercylinder and reservoir and keeping the bleed pressure low.
This was the one I got , says the cap is euro style so indeed wondered if others would be the same , also got some spanner’s that have non return valves built in but of course only required if it’s not a pressurised set up
Made up a bottle to go onto the bleed nipples and put an air hole in the cap to allow the fluid to enter, along with a syringe to remove the old fluid from the master cyl
On my D3 the brake fluid had to be dot 4 , class 6
Hope u get it all sorted out as indeed can be very frustrating at times , plus ur find this forum full of extremely knowledgeable and kind members
Hope that helps in a small way
