pmallinson
Member
Hey
Do we have any update on when these may be going into 'manufacture' ?? I'm definately interested please send PM when your ready for the sales etc
Thanks
Hey
Do we have any update on when these may be going into 'manufacture' ?? I'm definately interested please send PM when your ready for the sales etc
Thanks
chopper007
Active Member
hey, yep i'm still interested too when the time comes....
charlie
charlie
Wonder if it worth changing the pressure at which the compressor kicks in so it doesn't run as often? Mine kicks in around 130 - 135 psi, way above the 120 psi stated in RAVE.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Cut in pressure should be 104 to 116 psi, cut out pressure should be 138 to 152 psi. If it cuts in early, it will run for shorter periods but more often than if it cuts in at the lower pressure, so it's as broad as it's long
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Turning off the self leveling when parked could lead to some interesting problems, think Citroen flattening the exhaust when parked 2 wheels on a high kerb, better idea would be to allow it to level upwards until the tank pressure dropped too low.Be nice to be able to tune it while he's at the design stage though, wouldn't it? And also be able to turn off the self-levelling after switching off.
martyuk
Well-Known Member
As an update to the EAS driver.. This one doesn't include anything to do with the pressure switch. I have put a slightly lower pressure switch in on my air tank which cuts in at about 80psi and off about 120. I was going to see what difference it made to the system operation (if any) but haven't got around to finishing wiring it in yet.
I've also designed the PCB for this mm ow, and have paid for 2 prototypes to be made, so I can see if it will work once fully built up. The prototype I made and have been using has been working fine for the past 6 months, though one of the driver chips seems to have died ( think due to heat - did a couple of long runs, and on hot days. But still, its got a tiny heatsink, and in a plastic case.. This next one will have much bigger heat sinks and/or have the chips bolted to the case, which will be aluminium.
Can't remember if I started a thread in here about the eas driver project, but might create a new one if I haven't already, once the boards arrive, so we can keep this thread about the touchscreen HEVAC.
I've also designed the PCB for this mm ow, and have paid for 2 prototypes to be made, so I can see if it will work once fully built up. The prototype I made and have been using has been working fine for the past 6 months, though one of the driver chips seems to have died ( think due to heat - did a couple of long runs, and on hot days. But still, its got a tiny heatsink, and in a plastic case.. This next one will have much bigger heat sinks and/or have the chips bolted to the case, which will be aluminium.
Can't remember if I started a thread in here about the eas driver project, but might create a new one if I haven't already, once the boards arrive, so we can keep this thread about the touchscreen HEVAC.
pmallinson
Member
Can't remember if I started a thread in here about the eas driver project, but might create a new one if I haven't already, once the boards arrive, so we can keep this thread about the touchscreen HEVAC. [/quote]
YIPEEEE this would be great as this thread has been hyjacked for nearly everything BUT the new touch screen HVAC topic which is where we started and the reason why I'm tracking it in the hope of getting a new and better looking HVAC control unit
Thanks a lot for brining it back with any luck
[/quote]YIPEEEE this would be great as this thread has been hyjacked for nearly everything BUT the new touch screen HVAC topic which is where we started and the reason why I'm tracking it in the hope of getting a new and better looking HVAC control unit
Thanks a lot for brining it back with any luck
Datatek
Well-Known Member
As an update to the EAS driver.. This one doesn't include anything to do with the pressure switch. I have put a slightly lower pressure switch in on my air tank which cuts in at about 80psi and off about 120. I was going to see what difference it made to the system operation (if any) but haven't got around to finishing wiring it in yet.
I've also designed the PCB for this mm ow, and have paid for 2 prototypes to be made, so I can see if it will work once fully built up. The prototype I made and have been using has been working fine for the past 6 months, though one of the driver chips seems to have died ( think due to heat - did a couple of long runs, and on hot days. But still, its got a tiny heatsink, and in a plastic case.. This next one will have much bigger heat sinks and/or have the chips bolted to the case, which will be aluminium.
Can't remember if I started a thread in here about the eas driver project, but might create a new one if I haven't already, once the boards arrive, so we can keep this thread about the touchscreen HEVAC.
I would suggest that if the drivers need heat sinks, you are over driving the solenoids. The driver pack uses pulse and hold, full power to the solenoids will burn them out in due course. There is NO heatsinking for the MOSFET drivers in the OE driver pack nor any need for it.
pmallinson
Member
OK see we are back on EAS now :jaw:
martyuk
Well-Known Member
I know the driver pack uses pulse and hold (hit and drop as it's mentioned in the EAS SID) and the driver chips I am using replicate this, though both the 12V pulse and the subsequent duty time are adjustable. I might try reducing the duty time a bit more so after the initial 12V pulse, the PWM is a bit slower.
The LR driver pack does have heatsinking - as the MOSFETs are riveted to the metal housing of the driver pack - though this is only visible if you manage to get all the epoxy out.
On the HEVAC note, I have been planning for quite awhile now to try and make a touchscreen version myself (I have the arduino, 5" touch screen etc) and got as far as being able to read temp sensor and blend motor feedback into an arduino controller, however I need more time to learn the arduino programming language, and then actually try and make it all work!
I was planning on trying to inferface the arduino directly to the PCB where the vehicle loom plugs in, by removing the 2 main chips and then trying to find out which pins do what. This thing called a 'real job' keep getting in the way though, so it's all still on the back burner.
If these guys manage to get something working and usable, then I'll probably just can my idea and buy one of theirs! I'm sure I could find other uses for the arduino and touchscreen around the home
Marty
Datatek
Well-Known Member
There is no heatsinking of the MOSFETS, the are riveted to the PCB, would you like a photo? There is no contact to the metal housing.
martyuk
Well-Known Member
I've just had another look at the photo I have, and you are right, they are riveted to the PCB. Do you have a picture of one of the PCB's removed from the casing? I would be keen on seeing a picture of the underside as I only have a picture of the top side or with the epoxy removed, but still in the case.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I know I'm right, I have a completely de-potted driver.
In odd spare moments, I'm building an EAS test rig complete with air cylinders to simulate suspension.
I've done a lot of development on air powered systems designing micro controllers for them.
PM me with an email address and I'll send you a photo.
chopper007
Active Member
I'm still interested in the progress of these... any updates ????
c
c
chopper007
Active Member
any updates on the new panel ??
still sounds like a great update.. especially is it has the EAS software etc....
keep us updated on your progress..
still sounds like a great update.. especially is it has the EAS software etc....
keep us updated on your progress..
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I'm guessing the the OP has found that it's a bit more complicated than he expected.
