jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
when you turn off switch engine they isnt any ,its only the same as turning off engine but battery isolated at same time
Farrar
Well-Known Member
How much do they charge.could you give me phone number.pumps off now and ready to go tomorrow.thanks
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
the alt is connected to the battery perm turning the engine off is fine removing this i.e isolating the battery from the alt will leave the alternator charging with nowhere for the current to go and will cause damage to the alt over time.
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
usually fit a light bulb or similar load on the competition motors to protect the alternator
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
im not saying leaving engine running ,alt is only connected as all brown wires through strater feed to battery you put feeds for system as well through isolater it cuts engine alt is then not turning
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
in a perfect world thats fine but your engine does not stop instantly and isolating the battery before the alternator stops spinning producing current which will leave it with a charge and nowhere to go. At tick over you may get away with it but its not how its done on the comp motors. At 3000rpm not reccomended on a diesel or indeed 6000rpm on a petrol the alt is producing current well after its been isolated which is never good. To stop any hint of early alternator failure its recognised you need to fit a resistor bulb or a suitable load to protect your alternator.
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
would you risk 60 quid alternator for the sake of a decent ballast resistor or 27 pence bulb?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
no and your alt is not a turbo its stops fairly quickly enough at least ,alts arent instantly destroyed by isolating battery it takes time theres alot of leads in lr that act as a sink
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
nick got ur pm not sure of the name its not too far from the train station about 5 mins cant even remember their name dunno how much per hour my recon inj pump was about 400 but can be alot more i think spyderman paid way more
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
turbos spinning at 80Krpm when revving hard turning off with no oil supply is not a cleaver move. i understand that you may think i got them confused i didn't
Farrar
Well-Known Member
Ok I'll have to have a ask around.just want pump testing to see if it's fooked and find the root of my problems
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
ryder i have a new fia switch kicking about for the comp motor they are made like it for a reason i will bring it over so you can see it after work one day. No goodif you have a winch fitted tho only rated at 100a usually
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
enough bollix bed time catch ya in the morning
spitfiremk1uk
Active Member
Ryder.
If you want a relay or kill switch you need one capable of 500 amps capacity. AT LEAST.
A diesel will pull that easily enough when starting on a cold morning.
The standard safety isolator will do it. Just. But they burn out easily even when used on a petrol car. A diesel will pull plenty more. They are almost considered a service item.
As far as using these to turn off the vehicle whilst running.
If you fit a an isolator on the main battery terminal only, your engine will remain running when you kill the switch because the alternator will supply the fuel stop and/or coil with more than enough power to keep it going. So you must also cut the alternator wires at the same time as the main battery power. Enter the competition kill switch.
If you cut the alternator wires in the correct place for it to kill the engine there is simply nowhere for between 45 and 120 amps that the alternator was just pumpng out to go once the key is turned off. You will pop the alternator each and every time you turn the kill switch!!! And dont let any silly bugger tell you otherwise. Wires that are not connected to anything do not act as "sinks". I cant believe the bull**** that comes out from this place sometimes!
You must run a power dump circuit which dumps the now redundant and excess power from the alternator either through a resistor and/or bulb. I use both, it can also be used to check your alternator is working correctly as it should always momentarily light when you kill the switch whilst running.
For correctly fitted switches the standard test is to raise the engine speed to around mid max rpms and turn the switch. The engine must stop instantly and if wired correctly the alternator will work once you restart the engine.
I will refer those who think otherwise to my signature below.
If you want a relay or kill switch you need one capable of 500 amps capacity. AT LEAST.
A diesel will pull that easily enough when starting on a cold morning.
The standard safety isolator will do it. Just. But they burn out easily even when used on a petrol car. A diesel will pull plenty more. They are almost considered a service item.
As far as using these to turn off the vehicle whilst running.
If you fit a an isolator on the main battery terminal only, your engine will remain running when you kill the switch because the alternator will supply the fuel stop and/or coil with more than enough power to keep it going. So you must also cut the alternator wires at the same time as the main battery power. Enter the competition kill switch.
If you cut the alternator wires in the correct place for it to kill the engine there is simply nowhere for between 45 and 120 amps that the alternator was just pumpng out to go once the key is turned off. You will pop the alternator each and every time you turn the kill switch!!! And dont let any silly bugger tell you otherwise. Wires that are not connected to anything do not act as "sinks". I cant believe the bull**** that comes out from this place sometimes!
You must run a power dump circuit which dumps the now redundant and excess power from the alternator either through a resistor and/or bulb. I use both, it can also be used to check your alternator is working correctly as it should always momentarily light when you kill the switch whilst running.
For correctly fitted switches the standard test is to raise the engine speed to around mid max rpms and turn the switch. The engine must stop instantly and if wired correctly the alternator will work once you restart the engine.
I will refer those who think otherwise to my signature below.
Spyderman
New Member
I used Union Street Autos Diesel Workshop.
Diesel Work Shop
They supplied and fitted brand new distributor pump, reconditioned the injectors and set it all up perfectly. That was the good bit, bad bit £900. I have to say though that 2 years on the engine is still perfect.
Booger
New Member
This is my backup isolater, 1 000 000 amps, fail proof, and only cost 5 squid, takes about 3 seconds to activate 
Reliance Marine - *Marine Battery Terminal (Post type - Negative) Q862
Reliance Marine - *Marine Battery Terminal (Post type - Negative) Q862
landroverjack
New Member
If anyone hears of or knows of a decent cheap greenlaning type 90 going... Let me know.... I'm trying to get Dave a decent one so he can come visit the Shropshire hills!!
Good luck with that
Sorry I wasn't at the pub last night .. haven't forgotten i owe some of you drinks
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Jack have you got those ropes yet? When do you need the money?
I may well be ordering a serious length of rope around August/Sept plan on having a go at this team recovery lark and will need some seriously long strong ropes to abuse
Jai
I may well be ordering a serious length of rope around August/Sept plan on having a go at this team recovery lark and will need some seriously long strong ropes to abuse
Jai
Farrar
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that.found a guy in wellingborough to recondition pump and injectors for £370 with a quick turn around and knows a lot about land rovers so can set pump to suit your needs.my old pump was knackered so hopefully I'll be back on full power.been working on it the last two nights so should be ready for the weekend.I'll let you know how she runs
