Hi guys ,I have Freelander 2.0 diesel starting problem on the mornings.I've changed the temp sensor ,there's power going to the glow plugs ,I've changed the glow plugs except for the 4th because of the ridiculous location of the pump and it still fails to start first time .Is there anything else I'm missing,help required as I have dusted off my sledgehammer ready ,oh and its a 1999
saxavordian
Well-Known Member
Have you checked whether fuel pump working or not. Do the basics first filters, breathers. do the glowplugs dashlight show on start.
saxavordian
Well-Known Member
Are you a doctor
3 glowplugs is plenty to start the l series engine,i think some engines only have 3 plugs.try pumping the rubber feul primer till it goes hard,sometimes the fuel can drain back making starting a problem.
its not had timing belts changed recently has it??if the fuel pump timing is only a fraction out coldstarting can be difficult.
its not had timing belts changed recently has it??if the fuel pump timing is only a fraction out coldstarting can be difficult.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The L series is a lovely simple engine. To start from cold, all it needs is a decent preheat and correct fuel timing. If starting requires loads of cranking, the preheat is poor or the timing is out.
A diesel will start without preheat but requires sufficient cranking to generate the heat needed.
Old diesel locomotives used this method, cranking over for several minutes before they begin to catch.
A diesel will start without preheat but requires sufficient cranking to generate the heat needed.
Old diesel locomotives used this method, cranking over for several minutes before they begin to catch.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
As a belt ages, it stretches slightly. This will gradually retard the timing in both the cam and pump. The bump is driven by a second belt, so retards slightly more than the cam alone.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
I think just pressing the bulb is not going to do anything, it will only fill to the filter and you need to losen the bleed screw on the filter to do this. If you do losen the bleed screw though and air initially comes out when you pump the bulb then it does show there is air in the system.
If fuel has drained back past the filter, it will presumably take a lot of cranking to get it to the injectors.
Good point made by Nodge - I'd never thought of the implications of the pump being '2 belts' down the line from the crank.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Don't skimp - get all 3 (cam, fuel pump & aux/drive/fan belts) done together with tensioners/idlers. It is not normally the cam belt going that destroys L Series engines - its the aux/drive/fan belt coming off its tensioner (usually due to a failed tensioner) and it then wraps around the crank pulley and takes out the cam belt.
Its not common - but it does happen.
Its not common - but it does happen.
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
I'm no expert on the L series, but doesn't it have a glow plug relay? Could be knackered and not actuating until it's been switched on a couple of times. The white smoke could be from unburnt diesel. As I say though, L series is not my thing. Mike
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
From Rave "In addition, the glowplug relay receives battery voltage via a 70A fuse (stand-alone fuse holder) mounted directly behind the battery.". You could see if there's any current drawn across this fuse when the glow plug light is lit. Be very CAREFUL though as its a very high current (obviously up to 70 amps) and you'll need your multi meter on a setting where it won't get damaged - plus don't damage yourself! Presumably a standard multi meter can test this level of current as they can also be used for AC - but not sure if or how.
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
. While I understand from your original post you have power to your plugs, the question is, do you have power fist try in the morning? A sticky relay will active after a couple of goes and therefore have power at the plugs when tested. Not trying to be a smart arse, just asking if you have tested on the first activation. Mike
