T

tisthymonkey

Member
My 200tdi cut out on way home tonight whilst driving at 30mph in 4th gear. Wouldn't restart, just turning over acting like fuel starvation but as I have a full tank I ruled that out. I had to be towed home and when i got there I removed oil filler cap on rocker and whilst turning the engine over the rocker is not moving. I am pretty certain that I have snapped my timing belt. Has anyone had this happen and may give me advice on what I can expect in terms of damage other than a snapped belt? Also as I will be doing the work myself, what other jobs would be advisable to do along the way? As this happened in a foot of snow in Glasgow I am pretty peed off so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Towed home by my wifes Merc A-Class! So embarrassing as we have about a foot of snow here in Glasgow! My disco is a 94(L) 133k on clock and has been running like new till tonight.
 
Is that all??? I kind of thought that after a wee thread search but was still unsure if there was anything else, thanks.
Worst part is I have a full timing belt kit in my garage but just kept putting the job off!
DOH!
Any other stuff worth doing at same time? Have a new water pump and stat so that will be done along with alt belt PS pump belt etc.
 
Lol.. yeh the belt. Cheers Sean, was a bit paranoid I had done more damage than pushrods and a belt. Yes I have saved the YouTube timing belt vid to study before the doing the job, I am a pretty competent DIY guy but always get apprehensive when setting timing up especially as belt has now snapped.
 
tisthymonkey said:
Lol.. yeh the belt. Cheers Sean, was a bit paranoid I had done more damage than pushrods and a belt. Yes I have saved the YouTube timing belt vid to study before the doing the job, I am a pretty competent DIY guy but always get apprehensive when setting timing up especially as belt has now snapped.
Click to expand...


When the belt went on my wife's TDi 300 it bent four pushrods and broke one rocker.

Replacing the damaged parts was very straightforward and the car runs better than ever now. I had to rebuild the rocker shaft assembly so needed to reset the tappets once re-assembled.

I replaced the belt, idler and tensioner plus the oil seals in the timing cover plate and the crankshaft. Also new coolant and thermostat.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. We are knee deep in snow up here and both my Landrovers are now off the road! Im waiting for timing tool to arrive along with a full set of pushrods. Hopefully I will get the job done as soon as all bits arrive. My V8 (conv) 1969 swb 2A is in storage and I had started to do cylinder heads during summer but never finished so need to get Disco fixed. Any advice on common mistakes when doing the belt? I will be using correct pins etc but could do with getting it right first time. It's cold up here in Glasgow!
 
Only advice i can give based on having done mine recently is to take your time and double-check all timing marks.

When refitting, rotate crank twice and re-check, then i did this again to be 100% happy. I also took great care to set the pump timing so the pin would slide in easily when the flywheel pin was in.

Dont forget a new o-ring behind the crank pulley.
 
Cheers Dave, I already have a timing kit and I think the seal was included but if not I will definately fit one. Does the fact the belt is already snapped make any difference in setting timing up or will the u-tube one still make perfect sense? Or am I being overly concerned about this?
 
Nah i dont think it will. Obviously you will have to set the three shafts - crank, pump and cam by hand, crank is easy - bung the pin in. Pump is easy - pin in again. Camshaft needs to be carefuly set to align the pointers.

Get rid of all the bent bits first, then fit the belt then rebuild the top end being careful that the rods drop fully into the tappets, also be careful when pulling the rods that the tappets aren't disturbed.

The o-ring was not in my kit and it delayed rebuild by a week while i got one!

Check, re-check, treble-check is the way to go.

MAke sure all the valve-stem caps are still there too.


Edit - I'm damn sure the crank MUST be on No1 cylinder TDC so that will need verifying before fitting the belt, this would normally be done by being able to get all three marks in alignment but obviouosly does not apply here.
 
Last edited:
davek0974 said:
N
Edit - I'm damn sure the crank MUST be on No1 cylinder TDC so that will need verifying before fitting the belt, this would normally be done by being able to get all three marks in alignment but obviouosly does not apply here.
Click to expand...


Typing at same time - did you see this edit???
 
not wanting to shove a spanner in the works, but how do you set the injector pump to inject at no 1 ignition stroke?
could easily be gotten 180 degrees out
not had to look into this yet, hence i didnt reply earlier
 
nrgserv said:
not wanting to shove a spanner in the works, but how do you set the injector pump to inject at no 1 ignition stroke?
could easily be gotten 180 degrees out
not had to look into this yet, hence i didnt reply earlier
Click to expand...

Ah ha! This is what I meant in my earlier post. My fear is that with the belt being already off I have a fair chance of having something out by 180.
 
nrgserv said:
not wanting to shove a spanner in the works, but how do you set the injector pump to inject at no 1 ignition stroke?
could easily be gotten 180 degrees out
not had to look into this yet, hence i didnt reply earlier
Click to expand...


Easy, you shove the pin in.

The pump/cam pulley is twice the size of the crank pulley so they only have one correct position. The crank however could easily be 180 degrees out and would not run.

The only way i know of setting N01 TDC is to whip the glowplug out and feel the compression coming up (turning by hand of course), but i dont think this will work without the camshaft moving as it will effectively have two compression strokes!

Clarification is needed as to how to find No1 TDC, anyone????
 
I think this will work,

Pull No1 injector, straighten a wire coat hanger and carefully place end into injector hole, it should touch the piston crown. Then wind crank by hand until the hanger is at its highest, IF the crank mark lines up AND the flywjeel pin goes in youv'e got it set, if not the go carefully round one turn and try again.


Remember to make ALL settings/ checks by turning in the correct rotation only, never go backwards.
 
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