A

Andrew Renshaw

Guest
Series 3, 88 inch 2and a quarter petrol, 1983, 7 seater station waggon.

Hi all,

Well decided today with a friend to change the points, condenser and rotor
arm. Changed them over with new plugs and leads. Everything went fine.

Anyway put everything back together and gapped the points three times and it
will not run idling. under load going up hill it will not do over 3 miles
per hour. It misfires when decelerating. I have checked points again,
changed back to old ones to see if that was wrong, put all the old stuff on
and still it misfires.

I have a good spark at the plugs (all checked) checked the points and
regapped them 4 times in total. Can anyone help???

Andrew


 
On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 18:45:30 GMT, "Andrew Renshaw" <andrew.hart.i hate
spam@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>Series 3, 88 inch 2and a quarter petrol, 1983, 7 seater station waggon.
>
>Hi all,
>
>Well decided today with a friend to change the points, condenser and rotor
>arm. Changed them over with new plugs and leads. Everything went fine.
>
>Anyway put everything back together and gapped the points three times and it
>will not run idling. under load going up hill it will not do over 3 miles
>per hour. It misfires when decelerating. I have checked points again,
>changed back to old ones to see if that was wrong, put all the old stuff on
>and still it misfires.
>
>I have a good spark at the plugs (all checked) checked the points and
>regapped them 4 times in total. Can anyone help???
>
>Andrew


hiya,

cant help much, but it sounds to me like the distributor timing is
out.

try setting points ok, then adv or retard ign and test run it, untill
your happy with it.

this is why i switched to diesel,

Andy
>


 
Andrew Renshaw wrote:
> Series 3, 88 inch 2and a quarter petrol, 1983, 7 seater station waggon.
>
> Hi all,
>
> Well decided today with a friend to change the points, condenser and rotor
> arm. Changed them over with new plugs and leads. Everything went fine.
>
> Anyway put everything back together and gapped the points three times and it
> will not run idling. under load going up hill it will not do over 3 miles
> per hour. It misfires when decelerating. I have checked points again,
> changed back to old ones to see if that was wrong, put all the old stuff on
> and still it misfires.
>
> I have a good spark at the plugs (all checked) checked the points and
> regapped them 4 times in total. Can anyone help???


What have you gapped the points to? Should be about .018" from memory.
What's the timing set to? Sounds really retarded to me - either get a
test light and set it statically, or get a timing light and set it
dynamically. I'd set it for about 4 degrees BTDC and see how it goes.

--
EMB
change two to the number to reply
 

"EMB" <embtwo@ihug.co.nz> wrote in message
news:cj4kc7$5ku$1@lust.ihug.co.nz...

books says 015 so have done it to that, I havent tried to set the timing as
i didnt move the pinch bolt, is the timing out do you reckon?

A



> What have you gapped the points to? Should be about .018" from memory.
> What's the timing set to? Sounds really retarded to me - either get a
> test light and set it statically, or get a timing light and set it
> dynamically. I'd set it for about 4 degrees BTDC and see how it goes.
>
> --
> EMB
> change two to the number to reply



 

"Andrew Renshaw" <andrew.hart.i hate spam@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:e1j5d.147$6g4.62@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
> Series 3, 88 inch 2and a quarter petrol, 1983, 7 seater station waggon.
>
> Hi all,
>
> Well decided today with a friend to change the points, condenser and rotor
> arm. Changed them over with new plugs and leads. Everything went fine.
>
> Anyway put everything back together and gapped the points three times and

it
> will not run idling. under load going up hill it will not do over 3 miles
> per hour. It misfires when decelerating. I have checked points again,
> changed back to old ones to see if that was wrong, put all the old stuff

on
> and still it misfires.
>
> I have a good spark at the plugs (all checked) checked the points and
> regapped them 4 times in total. Can anyone help???
>
> Andrew
>
>


Andrew,

When you changed the rotor arm you may have disturbed the centrefugal
advance / retard gizmo. Take off the distributor cap and make sure that the
cam and rotor will rotate to advance, and spring back into place. Is the
rotor fully seated on the cam?

Also there are some very dodgy after market rotor arms around - I've
recently had one disintigrate in use (brass bit came off), and others have
had them electrically break down when hot.

Andrew Mawson
Bromley, Kent, UK


 
In news:cj4mlb$7ld$1@lust.ihug.co.nz,
EMB <embtwo@ihug.co.nz> blithered:
> Andrew Renshaw wrote:
>
>> books says 015 so have done it to that, I havent tried to set the
>> timing as i didnt move the pinch bolt, is the timing out do you
>> reckon?

>
> If the old points were incorrectly gapped an the timing set, then
> gapping the new points correctly *will* alter the timing. To prove
> the timing theory you could open the points up a bit (to say .020")
> and see if it goes any better. If so, it's retarded - then you can
> reset the points to spec and set the timing.
>
> Or you could just do it properly and set the timing now - I'm 90%
> certain that's your problem.


Recheck you've wired the capacitor in right, miswiring can cause all sorts of
grief.

--
UR SHGb02+14 &ICMFP
If at first you don't succeed,
maybe skydiving's not for you!


 

"Andrew Renshaw" <andrew.hart.i hate spam@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:e1j5d.147$6g4.62@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
> Series 3, 88 inch 2and a quarter petrol, 1983, 7 seater station waggon.
>
> Hi all,
>
> Well decided today with a friend to change the points, condenser and rotor
> arm. Changed them over with new plugs and leads. Everything went fine.
>
> Anyway put everything back together and gapped the points three times and

it
> will not run idling. under load going up hill it will not do over 3 miles
> per hour. It misfires when decelerating. I have checked points again,
> changed back to old ones to see if that was wrong, put all the old stuff

on
> and still it misfires.
>
> I have a good spark at the plugs (all checked) checked the points and
> regapped them 4 times in total. Can anyone help???
>


Firstly make sure you hve used the correct settings as there were several
different sorts of dizzy fitted, and people also swap in whatever is
available if the whole unit fails.

With my old series I found that if I set the points to the gap setting, it
would run like a bag of nails, but I set it up using a dwell meter it would
run like a dream, even though the gap setting was then different from the
HBOL. Dwell meters can take into account any wear in the dizzy.

--
Simon Isaacs

Peterborough 4x4 Club Vice Chairman, Newsletter Editor and Webmaster (how
much more....)
3.5V8 100" Hybrid, now LPG converted
Part owner of 1976 S3 LWT, Fully restored, ready for sale! Make me an
offer!
Suzuki SJ410 (Fiancée's) 3" lift kit fitted, body shell now restored and
mounted on chassis, waiting on a windscreen and MOT
Series 3 88" Rolling chassis...what to do next
1993 200 TDi Discovery (the Pug 106 is dead, long live the Pug)

Peterborough 4x4 Club http://www.peterborough4x4.co.uk


 
I could kiss you all,

A friend who is a mechanic, came round altered the timing and it runs like
a pussy cat. I love my series 3.

A

"Simon Isaacs" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:cj62bv$3uj$1@titan.btinternet.com...
>
> "Andrew Renshaw" <andrew.hart.i hate spam@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:e1j5d.147$6g4.62@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
>> Series 3, 88 inch 2and a quarter petrol, 1983, 7 seater station waggon.
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Well decided today with a friend to change the points, condenser and
>> rotor
>> arm. Changed them over with new plugs and leads. Everything went fine.
>>
>> Anyway put everything back together and gapped the points three times and

> it
>> will not run idling. under load going up hill it will not do over 3 miles
>> per hour. It misfires when decelerating. I have checked points again,
>> changed back to old ones to see if that was wrong, put all the old stuff

> on
>> and still it misfires.
>>
>> I have a good spark at the plugs (all checked) checked the points and
>> regapped them 4 times in total. Can anyone help???
>>

>
> Firstly make sure you hve used the correct settings as there were several
> different sorts of dizzy fitted, and people also swap in whatever is
> available if the whole unit fails.
>
> With my old series I found that if I set the points to the gap setting, it
> would run like a bag of nails, but I set it up using a dwell meter it
> would
> run like a dream, even though the gap setting was then different from the
> HBOL. Dwell meters can take into account any wear in the dizzy.
>
> --
> Simon Isaacs
>
> Peterborough 4x4 Club Vice Chairman, Newsletter Editor and Webmaster (how
> much more....)
> 3.5V8 100" Hybrid, now LPG converted
> Part owner of 1976 S3 LWT, Fully restored, ready for sale! Make me an
> offer!
> Suzuki SJ410 (Fiancée's) 3" lift kit fitted, body shell now restored and
> mounted on chassis, waiting on a windscreen and MOT
> Series 3 88" Rolling chassis...what to do next
> 1993 200 TDi Discovery (the Pug 106 is dead, long live the Pug)
>
> Peterborough 4x4 Club http://www.peterborough4x4.co.uk
>
>



 
The message <e1j5d.147$6g4.62@newsfe3-win.ntli.net>
from "Andrew Renshaw" <andrew.hart.i hate spam@ntlworld.com> contains
these words:

possible you are shorting out where the little back end bolt/screw goes
through the little plastic cotton reel shaped bits, the supressor
capicitor goes on ISTR as well, as does the spring that holds the
points, on some I have had this does not muddle together well shorting
out a bit through the spring.




--
If you received this through the miracle of modern technology then all
is well; if not then situation normal.
Chris father of :) ( also at chrisjbarnes@openlink.org )
www.users.zetnet.co.uk/barnes_firsnorton
 
In news:2004092719233369824@zetnet.co.uk,
Warwick Barnes <warwick.barnes@zetnet.co.uk> blithered:
> The message <e1j5d.147$6g4.62@newsfe3-win.ntli.net>
> from "Andrew Renshaw" <andrew.hart.i hate spam@ntlworld.com> contains
> these words:
>
> possible you are shorting out where the little back end bolt/screw
> goes through the little plastic cotton reel shaped bits, the supressor
> capicitor goes on ISTR as well, as does the spring that holds the
> points, on some I have had this does not muddle together well shorting
> out a bit through the spring.


Yea, said it causes all sorts of grief, let alone confusion?

--
UR SHGb02+14 &ICMFP
If at first you don't succeed,
maybe skydiving's not for you!


 

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