Hi,

I've run out of ideas and would like to know if there is anything else I should try before splitting the gearbox / engine.

Ive got a 97 300tdi with the R380 gearbox. Its done 120k and apart from the regular niggles it's been good to me.

About 10k miles ago (August) , I needed the engine out, and I paid the garage to fit a new HD clutch and clutch fork. All other work was evidenced with photos, and a good job was done.

Over the last month, the biting point has been getting lower and lower, until I couldn't easily get into gear. The biting point was right on the floor.

Looking under the carpets, I could see some brake fluid, so this weekend I have just fitted a new master cylinder and slave cylinder and fully bled / adjusted the system.

Despite this, the pedal pushes about half way to the floor easily, and only in the last few centimeters is there normal resistance. Biting point is still at the floor.

When I replaced the slave cylinder, I checked, and the pushrod felt like it was still connected okay, but I noticed it moved in and out by hand for almost its entire length.

Is this normal?

I would have expected the pushrod to be impossible to move by hand if the fork etc. was still fine.

I've no idea what this might be. Any advice / suggestions before I bite the bullet and start splitting off the gearbox?

Really dont fancy spending more time on a wet driveway unless I absolutely need to.

Thanks

I am an Army mechanic mate, I know landrovers well. Was the clutch fine at first when they fitted it? If not, and it was low to the floor from the start. Then this could be your problem, there is are two different thrust bearings with a 5mm difference in hight. I think one is 50mm and the other is 55mm but dont quote me. All the other dimensions are the same. I have known people to fit a 50mm thrust bearing in a car that needs a 55mm bearing. That gives the sympyoms you are discribing. Without seeing it for myself my friend, thats all the advise I can give you..

baffled said:

I am an Army mechanic mate, I know landrovers well. Was the clutch fine at first when they fitted it? If not, and it was low to the floor from the start. Then this could be your problem, there is are two different thrust bearings with a 5mm difference in hight. I think one is 50mm and the other is 55mm but dont quote me. All the other dimensions are the same. I have known people to fit a 50mm thrust bearing in a car that needs a 55mm bearing. That gives the sympyoms you are discribing. Without seeing it for myself my friend, thats all the advise I can give you..

Click to expand...

Hi

I'm pretty sure it was high up after fitting.

Is it normal for the thrust bearing to be replaced with the clutch? I only ask cause I didnt specifically ask for one (or am I being thick and its part of the fork?).

Will bear the difference in mind too, if I end up having to have a look inside.

Thanks

Can't answer the orignal question but a new thrust bearing, pressure & friction plate should all be fitted when replacing the clutch simply because once you've got the box off you might as well replace all the workings. Anything else is false economy.

Thanks for the advice and comments so far.

So is there anything else likely to cause the lack of clutch? If it's not the hydraulics (all now new), and everything else should have been replaced by the garage, should I take it back to them?

If I take it back I just want to try and avoid getting a phonecall saying "we've looked, and it wasnt the parts we replaced, so we need you to pay for the fix" .

I wont be watching over them, and once the gearbox is separated, they could say anything they want....

markgw said:

Thanks for the advice and comments so far.

So is there anything else likely to cause the lack of clutch? If it's not the hydraulics (all now new), and everything else should have been replaced by the garage, should I take it back to them?

If I take it back I just want to try and avoid getting a phonecall saying "we've looked, and it wasnt the parts we replaced, so we need you to pay for the fix" .

I wont be watching over them, and once the gearbox is separated, they could say anything they want....

Click to expand...

I've not replaced the master cylinder/slave cylinder before, but I thought there was some adjustment to be done when fitting on the master? Has this been done?

gse1986 said:

I've not replaced the master cylinder/slave cylinder before, but I thought there was some adjustment to be done when fitting on the master? Has this been done?

Click to expand...

Hi, yep. Followed the workshop manual to the letter. That's adjusting pedal height and the slack between the pedal and the master cylinder rod.
All of that is spot on.

Basically, with the slave pulled out of the bellhousing, the pedal has no resistance at all (cause its not pushing against anything, and the slave cylinder moves back and forwards . Being careful not to push slave too far.

This is exactly the same when the slave is on the bell housing, apart from the last 1/4 of pedal travel where I can feel it is pushing against something.

What I do know is that the clutch fork and rod are still connected, but the fork moves back and forwards easily for over half the amount of travel when I put my fingers into bell housing and move it. It's really lose and just flaps about. Its definately not pressing against the pressure plate.

I'm lost at this point, but I'm guessing there shouldnt be any play at the clutch fork and that it and the release bearing should be tight up against the pressure plate?