lorrymanjohn · Mar 5, 2016

I have a Td5 that has a tendancy to overheat on the uphill stretches of road. When it overheats the power drops right off but if I let it tick over for 10 mins it cools straight back to normal and power is resumed. I have checked all the usual signs of head gasket such as oil in water or vice versa.and nothing and engine ticks over sweet as a nut. This has only started since I had a bad water leak and had to limp it home topping up every couple of miles. It has one other quirk that may or may not be connected and that is at approx. 2750 rpm if pulling up hill she will cough and splutter. Has anyone got any ideas please.

Lighthouse · Mar 5, 2016

Sounds like air in the cooling system

discodrivercumbria · Mar 5, 2016

does rad get warm all over? has it ever had a new thermostat? expansion tank cap? all these can cause an overheat of some kind,

lorrymanjohn · Mar 5, 2016

To be fair not checked the rad but have a new Thermostat to go in as I removed the last one to let it freeflow in case it was the stat. But I never even thought about the expansion tank cap

Jaswilliams · Mar 5, 2016

lorrymanjohn said:
I have a Td5 that has a tendancy to overheat on the uphill stretches of road. When it overheats the power drops right off but if I let it tick over for 10 mins it cools straight back to normal and power is resumed. I have checked all the usual signs of head gasket such as oil in water or vice versa.and nothing and engine ticks over sweet as a nut. This has only started since I had a bad water leak and had to limp it home topping up every couple of miles. It has one other quirk that may or may not be connected and that is at approx. 2750 rpm if pulling up hill she will cough and splutter. Has anyone got any ideas please.

The cough and splutter is the waste gate stuck spray it with Oil and free with mole grips plenty of videos on line. The over heating I can't help you with

neilly · Mar 5, 2016

Have you followed the rave manual bleeding instructions?

Cheers

lorrymanjohn · Mar 5, 2016

Lighthouse said:
Sounds like air in the cooling system

I take the grub screw out of the top hose and wait for water to emerge is there any other way of bleeding the air out of the system?

lorrymanjohn · Mar 5, 2016

neilly said:
Have you followed the rave manual bleeding instructions?

Cheers

I have followed that in the Haynes manual only. which is to raise the header tank with the top hose bleed screw removed until water emerges then retighten screw and top up to level

neilly · Mar 5, 2016

Rave info.

lorrymanjohn · Mar 5, 2016

neilly said:
Rave info.

View attachment 97591

Thanks very much that is a little more detailed than the Haynes version I will give that a go in the Morning

lorrymanjohn · Mar 5, 2016

Would these symptoms cause the power drop when it gets hot?

jamesmartin · Mar 5, 2016

lorrymanjohn said:
Would these symptoms cause the power drop when it gets hot?

lack of coolant flowing over the temp sensor at the top hose outlet would

Cliff4WD · Mar 5, 2016

Head gasket. Coolant leaks into cylinder and evaporates during combustion.
When it gets hot, engine management puts it into limp mode

lorrymanjohn · Mar 5, 2016

CliffordGarrett said:
Head gasket. Coolant leaks into cylinder and evaporates during combustion.
When it gets hot, engine management puts it into limp mode

Would this not cause it to run rough though having water in the cylinder during combustion? You will have to pardon my ignorance if my question sounds silly!

Cliff4WD · Mar 5, 2016

lorrymanjohn said:
Would this not cause it to run rough though having water in the cylinder during combustion? You will have to pardon my ignorance if my question sounds silly!

It's just one way to lose coolant without seeing an obvious leak. Can also leak out onto manifold and evaporate. How noticable running is affected I can't answer. I had the problem and didn't notice "rough" running; it did lise power and go into limp mode though.
Heads (10p) aligned with the plastic dowels shift under load and allow coolant to escape (or worse).
Also, check carefully that the water pump is not leaking coolant

neilly · Mar 5, 2016

Another good place, that is not easy to see is the pipe that runs from the oil cooler around the back of the engine, Or on later engines it is blanked and the rubber blank leaks. Look under the turbo.

Cheers

lorrymanjohn · Mar 5, 2016

Thanks very much for your help. The depth of the knowledge on this site is amazing. I had extensive knowledge of series 3 land rovers but still very much a novice with the TD5 if checking the cooling system and giving the system a thorough re bleed don't give me an answer then I will probably have to go down the head gasket route.

lorrymanjohn · Mar 5, 2016

neilly said:
Another good place, that is not easy to see is the pipe that runs from the oil cooler around the back of the engine, Or on later engines it is blanked and the rubber blank leaks. Look under the turbo.

Cheers

I have heard about that pipe leaking but I think it is fairly sound at the moment although I will re check it now you mention it. My main leak started with a rotten core plug in behind the starter motor and then once that was done it has just been the overheating problem. My water level seems to have been fairly static the last few days so I think that part of the problem is now under control although I am replacing the metal multi way pipe that sits behind the front crossmember with the thermostat as mine looks iffy.

jamesmartin · Mar 5, 2016

check rad gets hot all over, rads can also have pi hole leaks that only show under heavy engine loads

lorrymanjohn · Mar 5, 2016

I think I may drop the rad out and give it a good blow through in case it is blocked up anywhere. At the end of the day it is 16 years old most likely so could be carrying a fair amount of crap internally.

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