flossdog

flossdog

New Member
Like it says....Switched of my 1996 4.6 last night and didnt lock it. Got in and got engine disabled (happened a few times before) and press remote message.
Did this and nothing happend...no red light on fob...fitted new batteries but no change. I Got the EKA code for the car but it wont take it. Seems like it had a Becm change...
I treid just about everything but no change. Gtting it to a dealer isnt going to happen.
Been offered a BeCM a lock set and an ECU locally......My question is:
If I buy this kit and fit it will the car fire up so that I can drive it to a specialist to set up the becm for my car?
Any other ideas welcome.. The key fob is totally dead..
Thanks in advance guys.
FD
 
flossdog said:
Like it says....Switched of my 1996 4.6 last night and didnt lock it. Got in and got engine disabled (happened a few times before) and press remote message.
Did this and nothing happend...no red light on fob...fitted new batteries but no change. I Got the EKA code for the car but it wont take it. Seems like it had a Becm change...
I treid just about everything but no change. Gtting it to a dealer isnt going to happen.
Been offered a BeCM a lock set and an ECU locally......My question is:
If I buy this kit and fit it will the car fire up so that I can drive it to a specialist to set up the becm for my car?
Any other ideas welcome.. The key fob is totally dead..
Thanks in advance guys.
FD
Click to expand...

Lol okay well give you a bit of slack on not introducing yourself.

Does EKA get vehicle response? If not then check lock microswitch and wiring that flexes when door open and closed.

Pm mozz smith he has various tricks for immobilised.

swapping lock set and bcem will NOT start vehicle as the BCEM and engine ecu need syncronising with diagnostic equipment.
 
fanatic said:
Lol okay well give you a bit of slack on not introducing yourself.

Does EKA get vehicle response? If not then check lock microswitch and wiring that flexes when door open and closed.

Pm mozz smith he has various tricks for immobilised.

swapping lock set and bcem will NOT start vehicle as the BCEM and engine ecu need syncronising with diagnostic equipment.
Click to expand...
You starting to soften in your old age ...... ?? :D:D:D:D:D:p
 
fanatic said:
Lol okay well give you a bit of slack on not introducing yourself.

Does EKA get vehicle response? If not then check lock microswitch and wiring that flexes when door open and closed.

Pm mozz smith he has various tricks for immobilised.

swapping lock set and bcem will NOT start vehicle as the BCEM and engine ecu need syncronising with diagnostic equipment.
Click to expand...


Yeah...sorry about that...a bit stressed ;-)
The car is responding when I put the code in sidelight light on dash flashes with each turn of the key...no indicators though. It has had a Becm change and its a lowline fitted (explains why lecky seats dont work)

I can also get the ECU if that helps...and can get somebody with diagnostic gear. He has already told me that a used Becm cant be syncd to my ecu??

Thanks for the replies....dont feel quite so alone now Lol!
 
flossdog said:
Yeah...sorry about that...a bit stressed ;-)
The car is responding when I put the code in sidelight light on dash flashes with each turn of the key...no indicators though. It has had a Becm change and its a lowline fitted (explains why lecky seats dont work)

I can also get the ECU if that helps...and can get somebody with diagnostic gear. He has already told me that a used Becm cant be syncd to my ecu??

Thanks for the replies....dont feel quite so alone now Lol!
Click to expand...

Think you will need the ignition/door locks as well as eka code and vin number from other vehicle. Best of luck. Post your location, you never know there may be a member close. :)
 
This is a difficult one.

I'd look at the drivers door lock mechanism first, & check the single black wire going to the mechanism as this wire has been known to break.
You can also try the EKA with the drivers door open & you pushing down on the internal latch so you acheive full movement. For example, turning the key to the right, you pull the latch up, turning left, push it down.
You could also make sure the batteries in the fob are connecting properly to the tab inside the fob.
Because you have electric seats doesn't mean the becm has been changed. Maybe someone changed the seats & not connected them because the becm is lowline.
 
You don't need the ignition. Don't change the ignition. You just need the key fob as you can just swap the keyblade.
You never ever need to swap the key ignition, ever, unless the ignition fails.
 
Black box fault mate extreme or test book to sort as far as I'm aware.

before panic sets in recheck contacts are making contact to correctly inserted battery in fob, worn rubber in key buttons can affect operation.
User Irish rover and rick the pick worth a pm as although uk based may have suggestion or know someone competent in spain
 
Rick-the-Pick said:
You don't need the ignition. Don't change the ignition. You just need the key fob as you can just swap the keyblade.
You never ever need to swap the key ignition, ever, unless the ignition fails.
Click to expand...

Yes that's obvious when you think about it. When you see the kits for sale on fleabay they include steering column and door lock.:)
 
Thanks guys.. The key fob is fried ...it will never work again. I just need to get it running to get it off the mountain. Im getting the flashing light on the dash when i put the EKA code in so Im thinking the BeCM is getting a signal....but Im thinking its the wrong EKA code
The guy I bought it from said the becm had been changed but the miles shown tie up so seems a bit odd. He said he used 1515 as Eka. I thought this was US market only but it didnt work anyway.....Im inland from Malaga...bloody hot and 5 miles from the nearest pub!!
I have all locks available....in fact anything I need to get this thing running although patience is a bit scarce :)
 
Last edited:
Rick-the-Pick said:
You don't need the ignition. Don't change the ignition. You just need the key fob as you can just swap the keyblade.
You never ever need to swap the key ignition, ever, unless the ignition fails.
Click to expand...


I thought there was some sort of sensor ring on the ignition to recognize the key?
 
just been through similair problem that you are experiencing - it was the RF receiver at fault, just put another one on and the EKA code was accepted instantly - worth a try if you can get hold of one
 
bmp42 said:
just been through similair problem that you are experiencing - it was the RF receiver at fault, just put another one on and the EKA code was accepted instantly - worth a try if you can get hold of one
Click to expand...

My problem is different....I dont have key fobs and so changing the RFR wouldnt make any difference?

I thought the EKA process was independent of the RFR as its a sort of "get you out of jail" card ?

The car itself has NO problems......if the fobs were not destroyed and sent a signal it would fire right up.......having the wrong EKE doesnt help either:(
 
flossdog said:
My problem is different....I dont have key fobs and so changing the RFR wouldnt make any difference?

I thought the EKA process was independent of the RFR as its a sort of "get you out of jail" card ?

The car itself has NO problems......if the fobs were not destroyed and sent a signal it would fire right up.......having the wrong EKE doesnt help either:(
Click to expand...

Your first post said you had fob that didn't work? Now you say fobs destroyed?
 
fanatic said:
Your first post said you had fob that didn't work? Now you say fobs destroyed?
Click to expand...

Yes,,pretty much one and the same though ..it doesnt work because its broken.....not sending signal and no red light..

It now seems to have stopped taking the EKA code when I try to enter it...no flashing light on dash and back doors are locked...they will not unlock even when I pull the button up----

thanks
 
flossdog said:
Yes,,pretty much one and the same though ..it doesnt work because its broken.....not sending signal and no red light..

It now seems to have stopped taking the EKA code when I try to enter it...no flashing light on dash and back doors are locked...they will not unlock even when I pull the button up----

thanks
Click to expand...
Assuming the FOB did work, open it up and check the little metal tang at the side is in place, check the batteries are in the right way round.
The car will lock out if you try the EKA code too often, you have to wait 30 minutes or so before you can try again.
PM mozz smith, he's a genius at this problem.
I assume the car battery is not nearly flat?
 
Datatek said:
Assuming the FOB did work, open it up and check the little metal tang at the side is in place, check the batteries are in the right way round.
The car will lock out if you try the EKA code too often, you have to wait 30 minutes or so before you can try again.
PM mozz smith, he's a genius at this problem.
I assume the car battery is not nearly flat?
Click to expand...



It was working fine until I parked it for 5 mins. i didnt lock the car. Put new batteries in the fob but no change. It all looks ok in there.
It now seems to have stopped reacting to my EKA inputs but not gone into key lockout..........
 
flossdog said:
It was working fine until I parked it for 5 mins. i didnt lock the car. Put new batteries in the fob but no change. It all looks ok in there.
It now seems to have stopped reacting to my EKA inputs but not gone into key lockout..........
Click to expand...
You now know why you should always have 2 working FOB's.
Check the state of the car battery.
 
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