benjy8 said:
Unfortunately it isn't a wind up. I had set the timing correct and tensioned it etc.

This has turned into a nightmare.
Click to expand...

Use the pictures as a guide. They are as it should be (unless I've been drinking!!)
But also make sure the crank is locked through the flywheel with a locking pin or 6mm drill bit. Don't be tempted to use the 2 dots on the lower pulley, they are not always that accurate.
 
I have set the timing correct. The cams were correct. Adjusted the tensioner so it doesnt egg. The car will now try to turn over but nothing.
There is a clicking from the cylinder block. Bent valve?????
I am going to do a compression test later but I have to get my boy home to his mum =[.
I tried to get the fuel line off of the fuel rail to check if fuel is getting to the engine. I squeezed the two tabs together and it started to come off but wont go any further than about 8mm off.
I am going to do a compression test later but I have to get my boy home to his mum =[.
 
I stripped it all back down. Everything looks fine.
The valves are fine but I am stripping them down reseating them and new valve seals.
It seems as though the MLS gasket I had put on was manufactured incorrectly, so I am getting a new one.
I got her started yesterday on a tow and she ran fine.
I am a little confused by this all but hopefully after the new gasket and reseating the valves all will be ok.
 
Just out of interest, did you lock the crank with a locking pin when you timed the cams?
Did you measure the liner protrusion out of the block?
In what way was the gasket faulty?
 
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I did lock the crank.
The liners are protruding by 0.05mm.
The gasket that was originally on there was an uprated gasket landy part. The one I bought was much cheaper. The outer layers did not go the full way around the liners, whereas the old one did.
 
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I forgot a decimal place. :rolleyes:
Although it was an old gauge that was used.
I know that the liners havent moved.
Would it be worth dropping them by 0.03?
 
0.05 mm is ok for liner hight as long as all liners are the same. I don't feel the MLS gasket is as good with different liner hights compared to the standard gasket. The standard gasket generally lasts 50 to 70K miles before failure. The fire rings only fail because the coolant finds is way into the sump. This then allows the engine to overheat and pop go the fire rings.
Personally if the liner hights are all different, then the standard gasket is the best solution providing it's noted that it could fail again in 50K or so miles.
Steel dowels are a must as are new bolts and a new type oil rail.
 
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All the liners are the same height. I have got an uprated gasket 'made for the lotus'. :lol:
You can see the difference in quality.
There is no sign of coolant in the sump, although I will be draining it out anyway.
The radiator had burst at the bottom which caused the HGF. Although it must have been starting to go as it happened within a 15 mile trip.
I fully expect the head gasket to go at atleast 50k miles.
Apparently Lotus had solved the k series engine problems by fitting uprated head gasket, head bolts and rail. So may be a consideration although I have new head bolts and rail already.
 
Hydraulic tappets need replacing. Valves were fine but re-seated them again anyway. Such a little problem has caused some much aggrevation. I guess its always better to check everything 200% before re-assembling it.
 
Interesting thread ,I have a question that might be daft but ....Is it possible to set the cam timing out just enough to allow the engine to run but loose its get up and go (mid range) a bit like slotting the cam to advance the valve timing?
I have stuck mine back together and although she starts and runs what little mid range torque she had is "missing " but hit 4000 and she takes off .
She drives ok at A road speeds but overtaking is out and hills are only tackled by shifting down the box.
I'm thinking the crank pulley wasn't correctly set and the pistons are slightly advanced in the bores or is this just stupid?
 
One tooth out on the belt on any one pulley will give the symptoms you describe , and it can be one tooth out if you get the slack in the wrong place when fitting the belts.
 
Had to refit the timing belt 3 times to get it right. Was out by one tooth each time, even using a locking tool. In the end I had to deliberately turn the crank a little anticlockwise, fit the belt on the RHS pulley and down onto the crank pulley, then turn it clockwise again to tighten it. Did that a couple of times and eventually got it right, then fed the belt around the other pulleys.
 
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Thanks for your quick reply's gents,
looks like its out in the weather today and have another go
 
Make sure the dowel on cam pulleys are correct
camwheels023.jpg
example of exhaust
 
I didn't take the cams out, I only fiddled about as the tensioner was rattling like a good un and I fitted a new one, I didn't replace the belt as it had only been done last year obviously it dropped off the bottom pulley when I took out the tensioner and its gone back on wrong..... HEY HO
 
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