you might spend more time with the bonnet up than driving it, They are a headache and ive had one for 5years, cam belts, clutch expensive but all bits on them are, i would never buy another one but a mate sold it me for 500pds how much ive spent on it i do not think about, plus you will get the **** taken out of you if you dare go into the anything goes section but its good fun to most,
 
@ Moan a lot
maybe .. https://www.muddymods.com .. could check it out ..
he knows much about FL1's ..
be member "diesel do" hereabouts
.. same part of uk as you ??

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 
Last edited:
just in case u hadn't done a mot history check , assume you've done a full Hpi check

plus i would ask for a years mot and also see it's untaxed

also failed every mot from 2012

JUST BEEN SERVICED AND VALETED*** FULL 12 MONTH MOT INCLUDED*** VERY CLEAN AND TIDY EXAMPLE*** Next MOT due 08/11/2017,

my own opinion is it hasn't been looked after and should run , don't know what the other guys think

hope it helps

Check the MOT history of a vehicle
Registration number: YD55

  • Vehicle makeLAND ROVER
  • Vehicle modelFREELANDER
  • Date first used2 September 2005
  • Fuel typeDiesel
  • ColourGrey

MOT history of this vehicle
  • Test date9 November 2016
  • Expiry date8 November 2017
  • Test ResultPass
  • Odometer reading100,150 miles
  • MOT test number1462 6811 2713
  • Test date28 October 2016
  • Test ResultFail
  • Odometer reading99,778 miles
  • MOT test number4951 7274 9842
  • Reason(s) for failure
    Parking brake: efficiency below requirements (3.7.C.1b)
    Nearside Rear Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)
    Offside Rear Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)
    Centre Exhaust system not adequately supported (7.1.1)
    Front Exhaust system not adequately supported (7.1.1)
    Nearside Front Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively (8.2.2)
    Offside Front Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively (8.2.2)
  • Test date18 September 2015
  • Expiry date17 September 2016
  • Test ResultPass
  • Odometer reading84,619 miles
  • MOT test number7954 6299 9523
  • Advisory notice item(s)
    Brake pipe slightly corroded several (3.6.B.2c)
    Front Tyre worn close to the legal limit o/s and n/s (4.1.E.1)
    Rear coil spring corroded o/s and n/s (2.4.C.1b)
    Front brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened o/s and n/s (3.5.1i)
    2 exhaust mountings detatched but exhaust still secure.
  • Test date17 September 2015
  • Test ResultFail
  • Odometer reading84,619 miles
  • MOT test number2764 4653 7837
  • Reason(s) for failure
    Parking brake: efficiency below requirements (3.7.B.7)
  • Advisory notice item(s)
    Brake pipe slightly corroded several (3.6.B.2c)
    Front Tyre worn close to the legal limit o/s and n/s (4.1.E.1)
    Rear coil spring corroded o/s and n/s (2.4.C.1b)
    Front brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened o/s and n/s (3.5.1i)
    2 exhaust mountings detatched but exhaust still secure.
  • Test date2 September 2015
  • Test ResultFail
  • Odometer reading83,990 miles
  • MOT test number2237 0542 9486
  • Reason(s) for failure
    Parking brake: efficiency below requirements (3.7.B.7)
    Nearside Front Anti-roll bar linkage has excessive play in a ball joint (2.4.G.2)
    Offside Front Anti-roll bar linkage has excessive play in a ball joint (2.4.G.2)
    Rear Fuel tank insecure tank retaining straps corroded and broken (7.2.1)
  • Advisory notice item(s)
    Front Tyre worn close to the legal limit o/s and n/s (4.1.E.1)
    Nearside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
    Rear coil spring corroded o/s and n/s (2.4.C.1b)
  • Test date9 May 2014
  • Expiry date8 May 2015
  • Test ResultPass
  • Odometer reading66,694 miles
  • MOT test number6399 1992 4121
  • Test date25 April 2014
  • Test ResultFail
  • Odometer reading66,690 miles
  • MOT test number4152 5501 4188
  • Reason(s) for failure
    Offside Front Brake pipe excessively corroded (3.6.B.2c)
    Offside Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (3.6.B.2c)
    Nearside Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (3.6.B.2c)
    Brake pedal anti-slip provision missing (3.3.A.1b)
    Parking brake: efficiency below requirements (3.7.C.1b)
  • Advisory notice item(s)
    Service brake: service brake efficiency only just met. It would appear that the braking system requires adjustment or repair. (3.7.C.1a)
  • Test date25 July 2013
  • Expiry date24 July 2014
  • Test ResultPass
  • Odometer reading55,974 miles
  • MOT test number8469 9610 3246
  • Test date23 July 2013
  • Test ResultFail
  • Odometer reading55,973 miles
  • MOT test number8752 6490 3295
  • Reason(s) for failure
    Nearside Headlamp aim beam image obviously incorrect (1.8.A.1b)
    Offside Headlamp aim too high (1.8)
    Nearside rear parking brake recording little or no effort (3.7.B.6a)
    Offside rear parking brake recording little or no effort (3.7.B.6a)
    Parking brake: efficiency below requirements (3.7.B.7)
  • Test date14 September 2012
  • Expiry date13 September 2013
  • Test ResultPass
  • Odometer reading47,004 miles
  • MOT test number3182 3845 2273
  • Advisory notice item(s)
    Nearside Rear Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
    Offside Rear Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
  • Test date12 September 2011
  • Expiry date11 September 2012
  • Test ResultPass
  • Odometer reading36,085 miles
  • MOT test number8551 8585 1224
  • Advisory notice item(s)
    Nearside Rear Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
    Offside Rear Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
    Parking brake: parking brake efficiency only just met. It would appear that the braking system requires adjustment or repair. (3.7.C.1b)
  • Test date1 September 2010
  • Expiry date2 September 2011
  • Test ResultPass
  • Odometer reading34,049 miles
  • MOT test number4102 6424 0249
  • Advisory notice item(s)
    Child seat fitted not allowing full inspection of adult belt
  • Test date2 September 2009
  • Expiry date2 September 2010
  • Test ResultPass
  • Odometer reading28,910 miles
  • MOT test number8410 6574 9251
  • Advisory notice item(s)
    Nearside Front Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.E.1)
  • Test date1 September 2008
  • Expiry date2 September 2009
  • Test ResultPass
  • Odometer reading22,380 miles
  • MOT test number5946 1504 8255
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Last edited:
Checked the MOT last night whilst at work and came to the conclusion that the failures were nothing major, they've said they'll put a years MOT on it just worried about the Vthingy (great terminology on my part) being kaput
 
Moan a lot said:
Checked the MOT last night whilst at work and came to the conclusion that the failures were nothing major, they've said they'll put a years MOT on it just worried about the Vthingy (great terminology on my part) being kaput
Click to expand...

hi

the vcu , my thoughts are it hasn't been serviced very well seeing it's failed for the last 5 x years, worn tyres etc

if u decide to have a look u must check the propshafts are fitted and look at the buyers guide in the above link that
@hd3 posted ,

personally owned one for 7 x years,

would just hate to see u buy a money pit when there are considerably better examples around that have been looked after , i wouldn't touch it with a barge poll, but thats my own opinion

hope all goes well in what ever u decide
 
Thanks for the responses folks, certainly given me something to think about..... especially considering I have another 10 hrs at work
 
To be honest go and visit the car and test drive it armed with knowledge gained on here

Check all 4 tyres are the EXACT same type/make/model/size/load and speed rating

Check all electrics work inc rear window and wiper

See how it drives and starts

If stuff doesn't stack up or seem right then walk away but you can't dismiss a car without viewing and driving it
 
As above, go and have a good look and testdrive, are you happy to get spanners out when necessary ??
 
You've had quite a few good pointers and bum streers so far on this thread.

You can disregard claims on money pits due to cam belts, clutches etc - that's from an owner of a petrol Freelander who's still bitter he made such a school boy error!

However, I notice that the one you are looking at is a manual. The TD4 clutch/flywheel/actuating hydraulics are an expensive nightmare when they go wrong. I think if you are buying TD4, then you are better off looking for an auto - not sure if that's discussed in any of the links in this thread.

Car yards like this know absolutely sweet fanny adams about the cars they sell. They are purely in the business of buying cars cheap, giving them a clean and selling them at high forecourt prices. They may also do some fixes - like sorting out a door handle that's falling off and obviously lowering the value of the car. If the car sounds like its running OK though, they won't try to find if there are any problems with it. They will also be in the business of selling you a warranty as they make cash on the sale of it and if there are any come backs its a lot easier for them to say "claim on the warranty" than "that's a shame, not f**k off".

They won't know how the transmission works on a Freelander, and they probably won't even know if the car has been converted to 2WD.

Personally I've found my Freelander to be ultra reliable. There are a couple of basic issues (tyres & VCU) that can cause big problems. But if you know about them and take care of them - then, as I say, you should be rewarded with good reliable motoring. The only caveat being the maintenance costs for the clutch on TD4. Government stats here show Freelander reliability to be better than Toyota of the same era.

Before you buy, as you've been told, you should always make sure the tyres are identical make/model. This won't tell you its history, but will at least show you what they're like now. Looking at the MOT failures, it did look like all 4 tyres were over or near limit together - that in my book is a good historic sign.

If you can take it for a test drive - be prepared with a ratchet with 32mm socket and 1.2m bar attached to it with a 5kg weight on the end. You can then jack a rear wheel up and do a 1WUT :) The 1 Wheel Up Test - is the biggest test you can do to see the health of a Freelander. If you get a time of over 1 minute, budget £300 for a recon VCU (don't know if that includes support bearings). If you get a time over 2 minutes - walk away unless the car is dirt cheap.

Lots of good reading been linked to in this thread. I'd say the most important things to check are what I've described above and detailed in...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
Good luck.
 
I agree with most of what GG has said. However I noticed that it failed an MOT on rear tyres. This to me is a worry as the 4X4 system gets overloaded if the most worn tyres tyres are on the rear. So at some point, new tyres have been fitted to the front, which is bad. So the VCU and IRD could be damaged. Definitely check the propshafts are there. If not, then they have been removed to hide IRD damage.

This Freelander is also a basic low spec model, being sold at the price of a higher spec model, if bought privately.

Oh and a Freelander doesn't have to be a money pit. Chosen wisely, they are no more expensive than a Ford Focus. I personally would only go for the automatic box, as clutches on the TD4 are expensive to replace. Auto's also drive better, but that's just my preference.
 
Nodge68 said:
I agree with most of what GG has said. However I noticed that it failed an MOT on rear tyres. This to me is a worry as the 4X4 system gets overloaded if the most worn tyres tyres are on the rear. So at some point, new tyres have been fitted to the front, which is bad. So the VCU and IRD could be damaged. Definitely check the propshafts are there. If not, then they have been removed to hide IRD damage.

This Freelander is also a basic low spec model, being sold at the price of a higher spec model, if bought privately.

Oh and a Freelander doesn't have to be a money pit. Chosen wisely, they are no more expensive than a Ford Focus. I personally would only go for the automatic box, as clutches on the TD4 are expensive to replace. Auto's also drive better, but that's just my preference.
Click to expand...
I didn't read all the MOT history Nodge - but I noted on 1 that both rears had failed - but the fronts were both advisories as well. I absolutely agree with what you say - but given the fronts were advisories they were obviously close and might have been rotated so that they all wear out at basically the same time.
 
GrumpyGel said:
I didn't read all the MOT history Nodge - but I noted on 1 that both rears had failed - but the fronts were both advisories as well. I absolutely agree with what you say - but given the fronts were advisories they were obviously close and might have been rotated so that they all wear out at basically the same time.
Click to expand...

Having studied the MOT information above. I would say that the FL was run for over 15,000 miles with the rear tyres lower than the fronts.

One front tyre failed the MOT in September 2015 @ 84619 miles, the other front was an advisory. So presumably it had two new front tyres at this point. It then failed the MOT in October 2016 @ 99778 miles on rear tyres. So that's a little over 15,000 miles with the fronts being new, rears approaching a worn out state.

I personally use tyre maintenance as a general guide to a vehicle's maintenance. If the owner can't be bothered to maintain safety critical items like tyres. Then what maintenance has been missed, when it's not safety critical?

My advice would be walk away. There are plenty of better maintained Freelander's out there.
 
Car buying rule...

You NEVER buy the first car you look at. Always go around the block of few times and look at as many as you can. Drive then, feel them and check the paperwork. If that first car is the best one, then maybe go back and make an offer, if all adds up.

Take someone with you with explicit instruction to make sure you don't make a tw!t of yourself. Ideally someone who knows at least the basics of mechanicals

Secondly(as you have done)

Join a forum, read through the main issues with the cars and become informed, educated and ofay with the nuances and areas of the specific vehicle. If you notice something mention it(you will know more than the the salesperson, guaranteed/ an his 'oily rag man' mechanic.

The real knowledge about these cars is on here, or other vehicle specific forums. Take everything told to you by the salesperson with a large pinch of salt.

If you have any doubts...just walk(and don't look back in envy) there are plenty of good cars out there to chose from. Buying a car isn't a race!!

Good luck, whatever your decision.
 
MollyNomad said:
Car buying rule...

You NEVER buy the first car you look at. Always go around the block of few times and look at as many as you can. Drive then, feel them and check the paperwork. If that first car is the best one, then maybe go back and make an offer, if all adds up.

Take someone with you with explicit instruction to make sure you don't make a tw!t of yourself. Ideally someone who knows at least the basics of mechanicals

Secondly(as you have done)

Join a forum, read through the main issues with the cars and become informed, educated and ofay with the nuances and areas of the specific vehicle. If you notice something mention it(you will know more than the the salesperson, guaranteed/ an his 'oily rag man' mechanic.

The real knowledge about these cars is on here, or other vehicle specific forums. Take everything told to you by the salesperson with a large pinch of salt.

If you have any doubts...just walk(and don't look back in envy) there are plenty of good cars out there to chose from. Buying a car isn't a race!!

Good luck, whatever your decision.
Click to expand...

Not bad advice. :)

Personally, I never follow any of it! :D But then I have been buying all kinds of vehicles and machinery for about 30 years! ;)

First, I ask to look at the paperwork.

Then, I just look it over. Like Nodge says, matched tyres in good nick are a starting point. Then I pull the dipstick, look at the coolant, and especially the brake fluid. Careless owners and cowboy garages rarely change brake fluid.

If that is all good, I move onto the test drive. If the owner isn't wiling to let me have a long test drive, I walk away. If they are, off we go. At least a few miles, as varied road conditions as I can find, try all the gears, brakes, wipers, and as many of the switches and functions as I can work out how to use.:oops:

Finally, if I can find a clear stretch of open road, I put my foot down hardish, and watch the sellers face for signs of concern.

If all that goes well, I go ahead and make a offer, usually about 10% off the asking price, unless I have spotted any glaring faults, in which case I will describe them and ask for more money off to suit. Unless, that is, the advert says no offers.
 
Nodge68 said:
Having studied the MOT information above. I would say that the FL was run for over 15,000 miles with the rear tyres lower than the fronts.

One front tyre failed the MOT in September 2015 @ 84619 miles, the other front was an advisory. So presumably it had two new front tyres at this point. It then failed the MOT in October 2016 @ 99778 miles on rear tyres. So that's a little over 15,000 miles with the fronts being new, rears approaching a worn out state.

I personally use tyre maintenance as a general guide to a vehicle's maintenance. If the owner can't be bothered to maintain safety critical items like tyres. Then what maintenance has been missed, when it's not safety critical?

My advice would be walk away. There are plenty of better maintained Freelander's out there.
Click to expand...
Well spotted. Shows to check twice. I must have read those 2015 advisories with the 2016 fails!
 
Turboman said:
If the owner isn't wiling to let me have a long test drive, I walk away.
Click to expand...
We have a line of hills (extinct volcano) running along the south side of the city. Its a great place for a test drive. Its quite a steep road and rises about 350m. I pile up there when testing a car and park up in the summit "Sign of the Kiwi" tea rooms car park for a few minutes to see what happens. Its stopped my buying 1 particular can or worms when its spewed its coolant over the tarmac :)
 
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