If the 90mm is to the bearing slide tube, it's that that's touching the clutch splined part - and I think that it's either a reflection or rubbing marks where they're touching. Is the clutch disc the right way round?
 
Yes 90mm is from the very tip of the shaft to the bearing slide tube.

But it's 79mm from the bell housing face to the bearing slide tube... So that's our max travel. Then it's 60mm from flywheel face to the buldge of the friction plate.

Surely the smaller number is on the correct side? 60mm of "hole" and 79mm of shaft.. Thus, some shaft left over.

No?
 
Yes 90mm is from the very tip of the shaft to the bearing slide tube.

But it's 79mm from the bell housing face to the bearing slide tube... So that's our max travel. Then it's 60mm from flywheel face to the buldge of the friction plate.

Surely the smaller number is on the correct side? 60mm of "hole" and 79mm of shaft.. Thus, some shaft left over.

No?
flywheel sticks out from rear of engine so you need to add that in as well
 
flywheel sticks out from rear of engine so you need to add that in as well

Agreed, but it can't ever make contact with anything box side can it? It's the friction plate at the front of the action, for the given diameter of the shaft and bearing slide... So in my mind it should just be flywheel housing face to leading edge of friction plate. Which is 60mm
 
it means clutch fits further in to bellhousing than bellhousing face suggests, id remove clutch ,then if it fits ok try with just cover
 
it means clutch fits further in to bellhousing than bellhousing face suggests, id remove clutch ,then if it fits ok try with just cover

I'm not ignoring the clutch removal suggestion, it's just too late tonight, and I've got a mate coming to give me a 2nd pair of hands tomorrow... Just trying to do as much as possible with maths... And kind of enjoying it if I'm honest!
 
The bearing tube wants to go in past the clutch cover surface by 16mm. I'm guessing that the surface of the splined centre boss is about 10mm in from that surface?
 
The bearing tube wants to go in past the clutch cover surface by 16mm. I'm guessing that the surface of the splined centre boss is about 10mm in from that surface?

You mean the clutch cover spring tines to the friction plate spline boss leading edge?
 
James will know this - I've been told that there are different thicknesses of flywheel for the V8. This one has the back surface 35mm out from the ccase mating face. Is it the one that you'd expect James. (FarmerShort gave me that dimension elsewhere).
 
You mean the clutch cover spring tines to the friction plate spline boss leading edge?

No, I'm ignoring the springs, I meant the surface of the clutch cover to the back of the boss (the 'rim' around the taper that becomes splines). And is it slightly polished, or was it the light making it look that way in your pic?
 
The leading face of the friction plate boss (at the buldge, not the splines) to the leading face of the cover plate spring tines (so including the thickness of the tines) is 20mm.

But... The opening in the tines is about 50mm. The diameter of the bearing slide tube is more like 45mm. Ergo, the tube should be able to go in through the cover plate. I checked that the bearing has play when fitted, and it does.
 
No, I'm ignoring the springs, I meant the surface of the clutch cover to the back of the boss (the 'rim' around the taper that becomes splines). And is it slightly polished, or was it the light making it look that way in your pic?

So straight edge across cover plate, to inner face of the friction plate boss? Sorry if I'm missing something..
 
The difference between the two highlighted bits!
20160316_183604.jpg
 
So the inner red bit it what I was measuring to anyway... And the spring tines bend inwards slightly don't they... So the answer will be just over 20mm
 
Well, unless I'm missing something, that all looks OK. But it is perfectly possible that I am!

Are you absolutely sure that you don't want to nip out to the garage and whip the clutch off?
 
Well, unless I'm missing something, that all looks OK. But it is perfectly possible that I am!

Are you absolutely sure that you don't want to nip out to the garage and whip the clutch off?

It'll take me an hour to get the gearbox all lined up and connected again, and pack up time... And I don't have a clutch alignment tool (till.my mate brings it tomorrow). I know there's the trick with the soft wood and a scrap clutch, but again, too late in the evening for all that.

If the maths is checking out, I'm edging toward the dowels... That right one being ever so slightly thicker, and the little bit of swarf I found in the bellhousing dowel hole.
 
Long story short... I'm too inexperienced.

I had effectively fitted the box correctly the other night... I just had no idea what was acceptable in terms of nipping the bolts up. Basically the new dowels were very tight on the holes, and needed ever so slight help from the bolts. But it all went in perfectly.

We did do the whole clutch off thing, but it was identical when it went back on.

So... Another of these mechanical task where there is no way of bypassing experience with knowledge.

Victory looks like this:

20160318_160944.jpg
 

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