Thank you - I will have a nose around on the weekend. NO doubt I will have more questions - and will be back then. ;)


Hiya ArtyLady, before you spend any money on resolving the squealing belt scenario, do try the "penny trick", it worked like a dream on my Tdi300.

It would take 5mins at most to do, as follows;

1. Take off the top plastic shield that covers the radiator and fan;

2. Using a viscous fan spanner, take off the fan (turn to the right to take off!!);

3. Using a socket & long breaker bar, take the tension off the idler pulley and remove the belt;

4. Slacken the idler pulley fixing bolt (the one that goes into the engine to retain the pulley assembly;

5. Slip a 1 penny piece between the engine block & the pulley assembly at 9 'o clock and retighten to correct torque value;

6. Refit belt, fan and plastic shield.

Almost always, this cures the squealing.

Good luck

Dave
 
WHooaaa thebiglad - you are talking to a girly here. And whilst I have been known to wield a large strimmer, or man-size hammer drill, and have a go at wiring, plumbing and proper DIY - I aint been that handy with mechanics.

It would take 5mins at most to do, as follows;
Yes that is fine - IF you know what you are doing

1. Take off the top plastic shield that covers the radiator and fan;
OK - that bit SOUNDS simple enough - hmm will have to see whether I get it when I lift the bonnet.

2. Using a viscous fan spanner, take off the fan (turn to the right to take off!!);
OK - NOW - what the bleep is a viscous fan spanner?

3. Using a socket & long breaker bar, take the tension off the idler pulley and remove the belt;
Long breaker bar??? What's one of them then?

Idler pulley - what does that look like??????? :rolleyes:

4. Slacken the idler pulley fixing bolt (the one that goes into the engine to retain the pulley assembly;
Well if I have get this far I am assuming that I won't be too confused! :confused:

5. Slip a 1 penny piece between the engine block & the pulley assembly at 9 'o clock and retighten to correct torque value;
Torque value?? Well I understand about torque - but what value? And how do you measure it? I have a drill that has a torque control on it - there are numbers - but ????????

6. Refit belt, fan and plastic shield.
That's sounds ok - provided I haven't done a Short Circuit and disassembled the whole kit n' caboodle and can't remember which bit goes where!


Good luck

Dave
Talk about an understatement

I can just see it now - the call to the RAC - with bits of my car scattered all over the road and me trying to explain why I and the car broke down!
 
Buy a Haynes manual - its pretty self explanatory - Oh and sack the RAC join the AA as your RAC man seems to talk out of his arse :eek:

overtightening indeed :p :p :p


Les :D
 
WHooaaa thebiglad - you are talking to a girly here. And whilst I have been known to wield a large strimmer, or man-size hammer drill, and have a go at wiring, plumbing and proper DIY - I aint been that handy with mechanics.

Yes that is fine - IF you know what you are doing

OK - that bit SOUNDS simple enough - hmm will have to see whether I get it when I lift the bonnet.

OK - NOW - what the bleep is a viscous fan spanner?

Long breaker bar??? What's one of them then?

Idler pulley - what does that look like??????? :rolleyes:

Well if I have get this far I am assuming that I won't be too confused! :confused:

Torque value?? Well I understand about torque - but what value? And how do you measure it? I have a drill that has a torque control on it - there are numbers - but ????????

That's sounds ok - provided I haven't done a Short Circuit and disassembled the whole kit n' caboodle and can't remember which bit goes where!


Talk about an understatement

I can just see it now - the call to the RAC - with bits of my car scattered all over the road and me trying to explain why I and the car broke down!


Hi ArtyLady, I'm sorry, I thought you were after a set of instructions that you could give to a local mechanic.

Genuinely don't mean to be rude, but it sounds like you currently don't have the experience to do this yourself.

As has been suggested, a good start would be to buy a Haynes manual for your vehicle, so that you can start to read up about it. It will also show torque settings for all the major components.

Incidently when I said "torque value", what I meant was how tightly to do up the bolt. You would use a torque wrench and set it to a specific value or rating. The setting depends on each bolt's job within the engine. A "breaker bar" is a long lever used with a socket set for getting extra leverage.

Again I wish you good luck

Dave
 
Hi ArtyLady, I'm sorry, I thought you were after a set of instructions that you could give to a local mechanic.
Yes you are absolutely right - I just got carried away with thinking that it could be possible to solve at least some of the basic problems myself. And if there is a major global disaster and we are out in the wilds having to survive - then I can weild my socket wrench like any good fella!!

Genuinely don't mean to be rude, but it sounds like you currently don't have the experience to do this yourself.
You are not being rude at all - the trouble is that I do have a go at things and I can just see it now that I WOULD have a go - the biggest set back is time.

What I am loving about talking to you guys is that I feel empowered - (watch out!) and at last I feel that there is a way to get some answers that are NOT manipulative bull **** that is meant to talk down to me because I am a woman and they think that they can get away with it.

I may be ignorant of the intricacies of how an engine works but I am NOT stupid unlike some garage owners/RAC guys seem to think.

AND most importantly - I am more than willing to learn. It wouldn't be the first time I have rolled my sleeves up and tackled something.

Thank you for all your help - I now know where I will come to when something else goes wrong and when I want to buy another landrover. LOVE it!! :D
 
Yes you are absolutely right - I just got carried away with thinking that it could be possible to solve at least some of the basic problems myself. And if there is a major global disaster and we are out in the wilds having to survive - then I can weild my socket wrench like any good fella!!

You are not being rude at all - the trouble is that I do have a go at things and I can just see it now that I WOULD have a go - the biggest set back is time.

What I am loving about talking to you guys is that I feel empowered - (watch out!) and at last I feel that there is a way to get some answers that are NOT manipulative bull **** that is meant to talk down to me because I am a woman and they think that they can get away with it.

I may be ignorant of the intricacies of how an engine works but I am NOT stupid unlike some garage owners/RAC guys seem to think.

AND most importantly - I am more than willing to learn. It wouldn't be the first time I have rolled my sleeves up and tackled something.

Thank you for all your help - I now know where I will come to when something else goes wrong and when I want to buy another landrover. LOVE it!! :D


Hi ArtyLady, I'm going to sign this one off by saying that to me, you don't sound stupid in any way shape or form.

I suspect it you could find the time and a little bit of confidence you could resolve this problem yourself, and the empowerment and positive glow of pride that that would bring, would give you great pleasure.

If there is anything I could do - over the 'interweb' thingy - to help just send me a pm direct and I'll do my best to be clear and concise. Most of the work on Landy's is actually quite straightforward - you just need a manual, some tools and a methodical approach.

Cheers
Dave
 
Arty, what you are talking about here is a very simple job to do...
you just need a few common tools and the confidence to give it a go, you cant really go wrong!

print off the the advice and use it to wipe the muck off your hands when you're done... have a cigar and a bottle of wine on standby and gloat in your own pride when you've finished..!
 
ArtyLady, what part of the country are you? Surely ther's a forumeer who could come and teach you how to go on and maybe lend a spanner or two.
 
Im no landrover specialist but i work on engines with my job.
Do you keep going to the same garage to get it repaired?
Do you have all the receipts for your repairs as parts as far as I’m aware parts come with a 12 month guarantee. And if its a good garage they fit it for free.
How many miles do you cover with your disco a year? is it a high mileage motor? Do you do off roading and wadeing?(if so do u clean the engine?)
Ok with the water pump always use deionised water and coolant as i can agree it will fail fast if you do lots of miles, i work in a high lime scale area and that kills water pump bearings and i have had it eat the aluminium casting as well. (soft water is slightly acidic and again over time can cause the same problem.) also you could have got a water pump with a faulty seal that has failed before time, not an everyday occurrence but none the less dose happen.
Belt tensioner will fail if over tightened but if in 12months they should replace free of charge.
A bolt shearing a quirk of landrover possibly but i doubt it i think they call it ware and tare, vibration and tension , or possibly a flaw with the bolt could be to blame.
If the garage doesn’t repair it foc forward the complaint onto tradeing standards.
I’m not sticking up for the garage and i hope you think my advice to be fair and helpfull
Cheers
baz;)
 
Post a photo.If your cute I'll be up there with me rope and harness :D I might even do a bit of climbing anorl :eek:

Am absolutely not going to post a photo now! I might be offended!! :(

It seems that the squeal has stopped squealing - bit of magic happened there I think.

I have confronted the garage about the recurring problems and they have promised to look into it.

The only thing is - could do with finding someone who can service it now -it's been a while because of this issue. Not good obviously!!
 

Do you keep going to the same garage to get it repaired?
Do you have all the receipts for your repairs as parts as far as I’m aware parts come with a 12 month guarantee. And if its a good garage they fit it for free.
How many miles do you cover with your disco a year? is it a high mileage motor? Do you do off roading and wadeing?(if so do u clean the engine?)
Ok with the water pump always use deionised water and coolant as i can agree it will fail fast if you do lots of miles, i work in a high lime scale area and that kills water pump bearings and i have had it eat the aluminium casting as well. (soft water is slightly acidic and again over time can cause the same problem.) also you could have got a water pump with a faulty seal that has failed before time, not an everyday occurrence but none the less dose happen.
Belt tensioner will fail if over tightened but if in 12months they should replace free of charge.
A bolt shearing a quirk of landrover possibly but i doubt it i think they call it ware and tare, vibration and tension , or possibly a flaw with the bolt could be to blame.
If the garage doesn’t repair it foc forward the complaint onto tradeing standards.
I’m not sticking up for the garage and i hope you think my advice to be fair and helpfull
Cheers
baz;)

this is all worth knowing and thank you for your suggestions.

I have to go through all my accounts for the last two years to get the running history - but the garage have said that they will look at it and see what they can do. So, will wait and see what happens.
 

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