Historicalgasman

Historicalgasman

Member
In need of urgent help! Currently on Holiday in Northumberland and my head lights have stopped working. I have checked the switch and I'm getting 12.5v on all the positions, brown(perm live) Blue and Red. Getting the same at the connector.

I have no live at the fuse box for the head lights, full beam are working as are the side lights.

I've tried bridging the 2 and 8 ports on the pink relay but still no lights.
Can anybody tell me where the Blue wire goes to after the switch so I can try and bypass with new wire.
Cheers all!
 
What relays do you have? On mine I can pinch one from the full beam or spot lights. I didn't enjoy loosing mine either but I was at least local!
 
I'm going to a dune you have checked bulbs and fuses etc.

The switch is often the culprit and the contacts inside ware down inside due to the high current levels. Just because there is 12v there, there might not be enough contact area on the little pads for the current needed.

I'm not saying do this but to test the switch I would unplug the connector on the side of the switch there are three soilder points one for each cable, I think I would bridge the brown cable and the blue cable at the soilder points with suitable gauge wire, or even a bit of cable with an inline fuse. Push the stork all the way forward so side and head lights are on And then plug it back in see if the lights come.

Then unplug it again quickly if it works it's your switch.
 
Mines a 200tdi and I'm pretty sure the head light relay is behind the instrument panel on that its red.
Cheers Ian
 
I agree with Mcclegend. Sounds like the switch. Remove and examine carefully. My money is on the contacts which the selector lever slides over being worn.
 
So, I've taken the switch out, put a wire between constant live and the Blue wire for the dim/dip and I still get nothing to the fuse box so there is a break in this circuit somewhere. Many people on FB are saying the main beam stalk but at £40 odd quid to replace is there a way I can test that this is the fault? My garage is full of bits that didn't need replacing!
 
OK, so I take it you've got a 110 CSW, however it would help me if I knew what year and engine.
BTW, I don't believe in replacing stuff 'just in case'!
 
If you bridged the contacts you have already eliminated the switch as the bit not working, the fault is further down the circuit.
 
All fixed now, it was the stalk. The Blue feed from headlight switch provides power through the stalk to head lights and full beams, the little plate wasn't contacting the headlight contact, a little bending and boom lights.
 

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