Joe_H
Well-Known Member
I am sure it will be correct Nodge you explained the terms and requirements, they are all google'able -- sometimes the OP has to do a tad of research ....
........... I am losing the will to live here lol l
........... I am losing the will to live here lol lThanks very much for taking the time to detail this Nodge very much appreciated ! ! !
Joe_H
Well-Known Member
Well, you need a two pin (output) relay - with 2 pin energise- but hey no worries for overkill eh ???
but - test it first via the switch in the cockpit . .. the reaction of the ecu to a change in starting mapping is unknown - hence try it first, it may well be the case that the 'starting energised' relay is ineffective - you need to test it first - hence the extremely simple two wire run to a switch in the cockpit..
Also, you DO NOT IN ANY WAY need automotive relays !!! - total overkill and totally unnecessary. ! a simple low current relay unit is all you need. ALL it needs to be is an NC relay - all the other info is way overly complicating matters. You almost certainly need to use an ignition sense deactivation circuit for the relay that only connects once the engine is running... NOT only on starter activation. - again google is your friend.
Enjoy..
I am absolutely not 100% convinced that your issues are not related to HPFP and leak-back issues. The reports of actual 'figures' and replies I have seen are so differing and way out that I would not hold too much relevance in them. it seems some have one figure and some more vocal have another that makes no sense. However, whatever it takes, just do it. The TD4 is a sack of trouble.
but - test it first via the switch in the cockpit . .. the reaction of the ecu to a change in starting mapping is unknown - hence try it first, it may well be the case that the 'starting energised' relay is ineffective - you need to test it first - hence the extremely simple two wire run to a switch in the cockpit..
Also, you DO NOT IN ANY WAY need automotive relays !!! - total overkill and totally unnecessary. ! a simple low current relay unit is all you need. ALL it needs to be is an NC relay - all the other info is way overly complicating matters. You almost certainly need to use an ignition sense deactivation circuit for the relay that only connects once the engine is running... NOT only on starter activation. - again google is your friend.
Enjoy..
I am absolutely not 100% convinced that your issues are not related to HPFP and leak-back issues. The reports of actual 'figures' and replies I have seen are so differing and way out that I would not hold too much relevance in them. it seems some have one figure and some more vocal have another that makes no sense. However, whatever it takes, just do it. The TD4 is a sack of trouble.
Joe_H
Well-Known Member
I think it 'may' be needing a feed as soon as the ignition is on, but one that drops as soon as the engine is started and running
By all means use an automotive relay but you would have to crimp terminals and spade connectors etc - that can be a pain without the correct tools. - however - here is a good and easy unit to use - also opto isolated for immunity and ALL screw in terminals.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-qual...294436?hash=item236a1f5824:g:jHwAAOSwYGFUsK96
Nice little unit and dirt cheap.
I have a shedload of the relay on it's own, however, you would need to solder it to a board - if you want JUST the relay and you want to solder it to a board AND wore it up then I will send you one - no worries. But, get the board with the screw terminals for ease of fit. (OPTO Isolate for free - bonus dude)
Also, as said, test first with a simple switch or even a NC momentary push button (opens on push which would be more able to tell if there is any specific time requirements before starting. ie - you could press the button at the same time as you turn the key simulating a starter disconnect - or as @Nodge68 suggests, that may be an excellent feed to use.
Joe
By all means use an automotive relay but you would have to crimp terminals and spade connectors etc - that can be a pain without the correct tools. - however - here is a good and easy unit to use - also opto isolated for immunity and ALL screw in terminals.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-qual...294436?hash=item236a1f5824:g:jHwAAOSwYGFUsK96
Nice little unit and dirt cheap.
I have a shedload of the relay on it's own, however, you would need to solder it to a board - if you want JUST the relay and you want to solder it to a board AND wore it up then I will send you one - no worries. But, get the board with the screw terminals for ease of fit. (OPTO Isolate for free - bonus dude
)Also, as said, test first with a simple switch or even a NC momentary push button (opens on push which would be more able to tell if there is any specific time requirements before starting. ie - you could press the button at the same time as you turn the key simulating a starter disconnect - or as @Nodge68 suggests, that may be an excellent feed to use.
Joe
