Hate to say this, but on a head stud that is a bit of a bodge, hope it holds.
He didn't say it was a head stud, did he ?
He didn't say it was a head stud, did he ?
Not exactly he left it a tiny bit vague.
I have done similar, on my D2, exhaust manifold. But the worse that can happen if it leaks is that a bit of exhaust gas might get out.
So for me it was a calculated bodge, and it has held ever since.
He did also say "what was left of the thread deeper in the head, " so thinking about this I think he may have done similar.
But I'd never do it on a head stud.
Could have been a rocker stand ?
Could well have been and it was exactly one of those that a garage helicoiled on my Dolly Sprint that didn't hold at all. I ended up making a very thin nut which JUST slipped under the rocker post and allowed me to put a bolt down and into it. fiddly as feck but it worked. I know it sounds mad that the rocker stand wasn't one with the head, but the Sprint head was well weird and sadly warped for a pastime. Seemed to be made of extremely soft ally, which logically makes no sense. But it had loads of holes in it being the first production 16 valve head and I don't think the engine designer knew enough about metallurgy to get the correct alloy/mix for the moulding.
Dr Strangeglove
Well-Known Member
I have very little mechanicing experience and have stripped threads in ally at far lesser torque than I expected. Some I did using the lower settings on a torque wrench and it certainly p****s you off.
I decided I needed a 1/4" torque wrench and found this. Its not one of the expensive ones but decided it was better to use this than the lower settings on my 1/2" wrench. One was being sold 2nd hand on ebay and it ended up going for £18+£3.50 postage!
https://whiterosetools.com/products...R-184PtfJ6GOrxB2YFvPc-fPgwatM1_BoChBgQAvD_BwE
I have not used it yet so can't comment on use, but delivery wS quick.
I decided I needed a 1/4" torque wrench and found this. Its not one of the expensive ones but decided it was better to use this than the lower settings on my 1/2" wrench. One was being sold 2nd hand on ebay and it ended up going for £18+£3.50 postage!
https://whiterosetools.com/products...R-184PtfJ6GOrxB2YFvPc-fPgwatM1_BoChBgQAvD_BwE
I have not used it yet so can't comment on use, but delivery wS quick.
It is possible to use the old fashioned torque indicator type of torque wrench for low torques, but they are big and clumsy. So not easy to use.
This one is a lot easier. Being a "clicker" one.
A mate of mine has one I borrow very rarely.
Had the idea motorbikists used them but that may be wrong.
so good find!
Just checked, looks like loads are available.
https://www.google.com/search?q=low...2j0i22i30.15457j1j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
After all Christmas is coming up!
currymunster
Well-Known Member
Yep, I agree that the ¼inch drive torque is better for the lower torques. Having said that some of the bigger ones don't go much below 30nm.
I always feel that a standard ¼inch drive ratchet should only be used for 10mm and below when tightening..,.lol
I always feel that a standard ¼inch drive ratchet should only be used for 10mm and below when tightening..,.lol
Dr Strangeglove
Well-Known Member
The problem is, even when using a torque wrench, you never know if damage has been done previously (as I think was possibly the case with some of mine). However, when using a torque wrench, at least you know it was not due to being ham fisted!
Dr Strangeglove
Well-Known Member
I have a habit of "was that enough - perhaps a bit more".
I used to do a lot of m8 and m10 through work but they were 8.8s and generally the ones for the LR are 10.9s. When I torque a 8.8 to 10.9 spec it doesn't feel right, as though the screw is deforming.
Hopefully the more experience I get the more "natural" it will become.
All my home stuff is by hand, all my work stuff is air or cordless, the joke about ugga duggas is not far off the truth!
KiwiTDI
Active Member
On my car there are only cylinder head bolts, and all threads were good (in the block).Hate to say this, but on a head stud that is a bit of a bodge, hope it holds.
Let me remind you, you did say this:
"just did the HG on my 300tdi and a PO had used a bolt where a stud should have been and it stripped when I did the bolt up (only then did I realise it should be a stud).
i fixed it by making a new stud out of a bolt, I made sure it had a longer thread than standard so it could engage with what was left of the thread deeper in the head, i used a tap to clean out the thread in the head first obviously. I did not do the nut up on this stud as tight as the others to give it max chance of holding, no leaks so far.
maybe there is enough thread left in your head for you to try this?"
These two statements don't match, so I assume you are talking about two different cars.
Maybe you could clarify?
KiwiTDI
Active Member
I can see how the confusion can occur but whilst doing the HG job I removed the inlet and exhaust manifold and it was one of the studs holding those on (screwed into the aluminium head) that had been replaced by a bolt. The (non) leaks I referred to would be past the inlet/exhaust gasket.
Right so the same as I did then! OK fair enough!
AllanWorms
Well-Known Member
I much prefer Timeserts, especially for anything that I want to remove the bolt from occasionally. They involve a slightly larger hole, but have a solid insert, that doesn't try to expend like coil type inserts can try to do. They work WAY better in aircooled heads, so should be even better in watercooled parts. I've never had a timesert fail so far and I can't say the same for coil types.
