"I know that 90s and such like have crap heating"
This statement is just sooooo untrue.
If your cooling & heating systems are working correctly then the heater is more than adequate. Agreed it will struggle to heat the whole interior of a 110 but in a 90 there shouldn't be a problem maintaining a comfortable temperature level and keeping the windows demisted.
My 300TDi 90 is a soft-top and has no carpets, etc fitted yet it is very common for me to turn the heater down when up to temperature as it gets too hot. Even in the coldest weather I never have to resort to gloves, hats, heavy coats etc. As soon as the engine is up to temperature (which at about 3-4 miles is no worse than any diesel engined car) the cab starts to become nice & toasty and too much clothing would be a hinderance.
The water in the heater matrix is the same as in the cooling system so in normal running (even in the depths of winter) it will be around the 85 degree mark, if your engine isn't warming up correctly then you have a separate problem and trying to "cure" the problem by masking the rad or similar is not fixing it. The thermostat is the most common problem but air-locks are not uncommon although easily fixed. Are the heater pipes the same temperature as the rad pipes?
By the time the matrix has been hit by cold air, flowed through the ducts and out of the vents you can expect some losses but a few years ago I measured the temperature of the air coming out of my windscreen vents and it was 69 degress while the outside temperature was -10 and this is with an uncovered rad and a viscous fan fitted.
Make sure the heater is set up correctly (flap settings are very important) and there are no leaks, the inlet duct must be clear and free of debris as must be the heater-box itself. Did you seal the matrix correctly as air has to flow through it and not around it?
Finally if you only use the cab then a fume curtain is a good investment (either canvas or a DIY affair) as then you are heating only a fraction of the interior space.
This statement is just sooooo untrue.
If your cooling & heating systems are working correctly then the heater is more than adequate. Agreed it will struggle to heat the whole interior of a 110 but in a 90 there shouldn't be a problem maintaining a comfortable temperature level and keeping the windows demisted.
My 300TDi 90 is a soft-top and has no carpets, etc fitted yet it is very common for me to turn the heater down when up to temperature as it gets too hot. Even in the coldest weather I never have to resort to gloves, hats, heavy coats etc. As soon as the engine is up to temperature (which at about 3-4 miles is no worse than any diesel engined car) the cab starts to become nice & toasty and too much clothing would be a hinderance.
The water in the heater matrix is the same as in the cooling system so in normal running (even in the depths of winter) it will be around the 85 degree mark, if your engine isn't warming up correctly then you have a separate problem and trying to "cure" the problem by masking the rad or similar is not fixing it. The thermostat is the most common problem but air-locks are not uncommon although easily fixed. Are the heater pipes the same temperature as the rad pipes?
By the time the matrix has been hit by cold air, flowed through the ducts and out of the vents you can expect some losses but a few years ago I measured the temperature of the air coming out of my windscreen vents and it was 69 degress while the outside temperature was -10 and this is with an uncovered rad and a viscous fan fitted.
Make sure the heater is set up correctly (flap settings are very important) and there are no leaks, the inlet duct must be clear and free of debris as must be the heater-box itself. Did you seal the matrix correctly as air has to flow through it and not around it?
Finally if you only use the cab then a fume curtain is a good investment (either canvas or a DIY affair) as then you are heating only a fraction of the interior space.
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
any particular engine?
bigsmellydaddy
Active Member
time for a kenlowe pre-heater................
mick the builder
Well-Known Member
Have a look at this on ebay 140869413277 Maybe it can be fitted to yours.
Random Bloke
New Member
The cable connecting the control lever to the heater was broken on mine, didn`t realise for years.
sm0129
Active Member
I have got one of these on my bot and they are great- wod of warning- there is no fuel pump and no controller- not cheap!! Also when trying to get a cheap one I brought a VW one and couldn't get it to work (wrong ECU I think?)Have a look at this on ebay 140869413277 Maybe it can be fitted to yours.
tyclyd
Active Member
DEFENDER90-DAZ
New Member
Might need to have a look at mine by the sounds of it
Fan works properly in slow/fast & mixer lever works properly - bet the matrix is full of mud
Daz
Fan works properly in slow/fast & mixer lever works properly - bet the matrix is full of mud
Daz
