cobra andy said:
Jim, excellent post matey, just been out and pulled the fan motor out.
Checked voltage at the 2 pin plug and all is well there, so now Ive got the motor out, its not jammed ???
Can you take these apart ?
There are 2 screws on the back of the motor casing but it doesnt appear that easy, any help ? much appreciated.
Also for my info where is the resistor pack located ?
Click to expand...

As mentioned previously, if your fan died totally on all speeds, or the 30a engine bay fuse blew when you tried to replace, it will definately NOT be anything related to the reisitor pack.

You will only need to replace the resistor pack if one (more common) or all (less likely) of the first 3 speeds are not working.

Mine was jammesd, but literally as i removed it from the housing, i heard some bits of grit rattling in the fan motor plastic cover, and by the time it was out of the dash, they had dropped away, yours may be the same.

The plastic housing is removed by undoing those two screws, giving more access to the top of the motor, where you can check inspect and remove brushes as required.

To help ensure that all was fine, I gave mine a bit of a blast with some compressed air, a few light knocks and a "spray through" with some WD40 on the windings - amazing the amount of crap that came out!

As a note, where the brushes went onto the acutal armature of the motor, when i fist started it was like a silver colour, after the oil bath and clean up, it was back to a more re-assuring bright copper colour that ou would expect!

Good luck with "feeling" the third screw, to get the main motor assembly out as it was a bit of a pig, but you will see the first two striahgt away, and the electrical connection in the drivers footwell.
 
Well my fan's working again (for now). Not sure exactly what did it - I just poked around the footwell looking for loose wires. There was nothing obvious, but I must have touched the right connection somewhere. At least I know roughly where to fiddle now.

Now - to get a replacement for the split turbo hose!
 
Jeez, you guys are good !

This week I first had to fix my tail gate window. It failed in the up position. Van the Man's photo's and description about this problem were SUPERB. It did the job spot on! (same wire had snapped).

Then I decided to fix this long due problem with my heater blower. The difference with mine was that fan speeds 1 and 2 failed. 3 and 4 were fine. And it could not be the switch, since the A/C light did came on with the fan switch in all positions.

But after reading this thread it was easy !

OK, fiddling the wires did not work, and I did get 12V feed, with switch in 1 and 2. It turned out to be the "blower motor resistor pack". 2 coils had burned. Its positioned behind the fan switch feed wires (4 wires). And it comes out easily when taking out the 2 screws.

All I need to do now is buy a new one. Made a few phone calls and this part seems to be dealer only. Hope its not gonna be too expensive.

This site is great, thanks !!
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Lots of other cars use resistor packs for their fan speeds, you might be able to use one from a different car that is cheaper than a LR one. Most makes fix the resistor packs inside the blower casing so it keeps them cool and they dont burn out.
 
Mines fixed now, antifreeze somehow, accidently got onto the moter brushes, a quick wipe and a blast of WD40, and now working.

Thank F, for that.

'Never underestimate the stupidity of others'.
 
As I was afraid of, resistor pack is LR dealer only, and £37 !! (for a tiny piece of plastic with 3 coils)

Could not find a 2nd hand one either yet.

Does anyone know what other car resistor pack may fit.

Or if I can replace the coil/resistor.
 
Even better, In my search for a Rover replacement resistor pack (not sure if the connector fits) I found the website of rezpax.com - Online Shop

They supply the resistor pack coils for Rover/MG and as it seems also Land Rover. Ordered yesterday and received them today. Took me 10 min to solder them in place. Works like new !! :D

And all for £5.89 and 69p postage.

And repairing your Landy is so much more fun than just replacing parts. :5bdriving:
 
Got up this morning, car was all frosty and bloody heater didn't work. Got to get to work and working all over Christmas so haven't got time to repair it or garages will be shut when I'm off. Anyway read the forum and decided to give the wires a wiggles in the drivers footwell and bingo! Fan working now and I'll have a better look when it's light.
I'm well late for work now but had to stop to say thanks to everybody on here.:clap2:
 
Doberdog said:
Thanks for closing off dazzerboy. I get the feeling from everyone's posts that I shouldn't have to remove any dash covers etc... to get to the likely area of any loose wires - right? Just check the fuses under the steering wheel, and wiring around the driver's footwell(?). Please jump in if I am off track.

As a reminder, my problem was an intermittently not working fan on all settings (not just 1-3 or 4), likely due to loose connection somewhere.
Click to expand...
Hi
I have just had the same prob with my TD4 2001 heater blower packed in suddenly and next day worked for about 3 minutes then packed in again : (
Did you solve your issue ?
 
Hi All, my name's Phaldie from South Africa and just joined today - I drive a Freelander 1, 2.0td. I landed on this forum while looking for a solution to my problematic heater fan that first stopped working intermittently, then stopped completely. I read through your members posts and went out to my car and checked the plugs to fan and resistor as one of the members suggested. I'm happy to say that my fan is working again and am elated as our summers can get really hot. Thank you very much
 
i blanked egr valve but left heater exhaust which broke at flexi now, would this be anything to do with no heat? fan inside etc all fine bled pipe on bulk bleeder, im going check wires in a bit as hot at bulkhead pipes and cleaned matrix with a flush so far
 
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