TheMegaMan

TheMegaMan

Well-Known Member
I'm a bit puzzled by the plumbing for the header in my 2.25 petrol S3.

I've just got the engine back in and have plumbed it in...but I've just realised I've not got a valve anywhere to control flow through the heater. Looking around, it looks like this is usually a valve rigidly fitted alongside the thermostat housing, with a straight hose connecting to the metal rail that runs along the top of the rocker cover. I assume that with this, there is a simple pair of shaped hoses that just connects the heater matrix to the other end of the rail, and to the block.

However, at the top/front of my engine, I just have a right angle hose that goes where the valve would appear to fit, straight from adjacent to the thermostat housing to the metal rail. I don't seem to have any other kind of valve anywhere.

I do have the lever in the cab, and a cable in the engine bay that's just waiting to be connected up to a valve somewhere. And I've no idea if/where the cable was previously connected. It's possible it's always just been hanging loose.

Anyone aware of any other type of valve that might have been used, and where they might have been fitted?
 
The heater valve is often done away with to improve the flow to the heater unit and make it work better. When driving in warmer times without the fan running there is little transfer of heat to the cab.
 
rob1miles said:
One of these, it takes the cable, screws into the pump and makes the 90 deg turn to the hose. Watch the thread, some engines need an adaptor
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEATER-W...182326&hash=item3b479dad81:g:FWsAAMXQ74JTSlh1
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's what I found when I was looking to see what the thing looked like that I needed to connect the cable to! :D I definitely don't have one of those at the moment, and I was wondering why or whether there was an alternative arrangement that is sometimes used.

But... as @tottot says:
tottot said:
The heater valve is often done away with to improve the flow to the heater unit and make it work better. When driving in warmer times without the fan running there is little transfer of heat to the cab.
Click to expand...
That would make perfect sense! I know the heater is generally bad, particularly as the fan sucks from a low pressure area when moving, so it's quite possible that's what a previous owner has done. I guess the vents on the bulkhead give you cooler air if you don't need the heater, so I will probably leave it exactly as it is for now, then, and just find somewhere safe to leave the cable. I was just a bit puzzled when I had the cable, but nothing to attach it to!
 
Hicap phill said:
Have you a picture of the front/back of the engine where these pipes are. My brain is not alive yet ;)
Thanks
Click to expand...
I can't do so for a couple of days, but I can later if it's really necessary. But I'm 99% sure I don't have a valve, and my query was more whether there were any other methods to shut off the heater other than the valve that @rob1miles posted. I don't think my plumbing is likely to help answer that...
 
I would fit the valve, the problem with leaving it open is that a [proportion of cooliong water flows through the heater, OK when its cold, but when its hot you want all the water going though the rad. I know sometimes putting the heater on in hot weather helps, but that's because the rad is bunged up. I don't think the heaters are bad becuse of poor flow, I think its as much to do with poor airflow as water. My S2a heater was poor until I cleaned it out, now its fine. The matrix was packed full of dog hair, its a recirc heater than the landy was used for transporting dogs at one stage in its life.
 
With the 2a you have the option of shutting the little doors on the heater unit.
If you have ever looked in a series 3 valve you will see how restrictive it is, more so after a few years and the crud builds up. Series 2a just had a tap on the block and you had to open the bonnet to open/close it. You could fit one, less restrictive than the valve.
 
My advice is not to fit the S2A tap, its not a bad design but the problem is that the ones you can buy now are poorly made sealed units and leak after a while. I ended up spending more on a 30 year old one with a separate gland nut that I had to refurb just to get one that I could trust and fix if it leaked rather then break down.
Lasts 18 months:
34031-88g588l-water-tap-for-heater-1958-71-and-all-airportables.jpg

Lasts years:
safari-engineering-land-rover-specialist-eversley-water-heater-tap.jpg
 
Hicap phill said:
Have you a picture of the front/back of the engine where these pipes are. My brain is not alive yet ;)
Thanks
Click to expand...
A bit late and probably not useful, but photos as requested...

20200528_131800.jpg 20200528_131811.jpg

Given I've already filled the coolant, I think I'll leave it as it is for now. I can see the argument for minimising flow restrictions, so the S2 solution has a certain charm. Although I've not actually seen the S2 type anywhere yet. Once I get it back on the road, I'll get something sorted later on if it's needed.
 
TheMegaMan said:
A bit late and probably not useful, but photos as requested...

View attachment 210836 View attachment 210837

Given I've already filled the coolant, I think I'll leave it as it is for now. I can see the argument for minimising flow restrictions, so the S2 solution has a certain charm. Although I've not actually seen the S2 type anywhere yet. Once I get it back on the road, I'll get something sorted later on if it's needed.
Click to expand...
I think I've got a series 2 tap kicking about, if you decide you want one later let me know. If you pick it up its your's for the price of a can of Scrumpy Jack:D
 
Hi,
Not sure if this post will be picked up but I have purchased a series III with the heating valve leaking. Should I replace with a 90 degree brass elbow direct to the hose or fit the OEM part the earlier gentleman referred to (series III valve).

The current valve is secured in the block with what looks like red paste? any idea what this might be (to stop the leaks from probably a dodgy thread)?
 
Yes just do away with the valve, series three type operated with a cable are restrictive to flow even when new.
 
Fraser0000 said:
Hi,
Not sure if this post will be picked up but I have purchased a series III with the heating valve leaking. Should I replace with a 90 degree brass elbow direct to the hose or fit the OEM part the earlier gentleman referred to (series III valve).

The current valve is secured in the block with what looks like red paste? any idea what this might be (to stop the leaks from probably a dodgy thread)?
Click to expand...
You won't get a problem doing away with the valve.

The red stuff is probably Red Hylomar, very good stuff for sealing threads, smearing on gaskets, etc.
 
Thanks Turboman. Just purchased the red hylomar and will fit the 90 degree elbow.

One more question, any recommendations on brands / products to replace the fluro green coolant?

thanks
 
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