rallyka · Mar 13, 2018

Hi guys
Had an hour free today and whilst sorting out crap in the garage came across a heater matrix from a Mitsubushi Evo.
My landy is a soft top so its been on my mind to try and upgrade this for a while.
Two hours later, matrix and fan installed in original heater box, totally sealed every joint.
Cant tell you what a difference it makes.
Only downside is pipes are a little higher than standard Td5 pipes, thought would cause a problem with air but bled up straight away.
Fan is at least twice as powerful.
Great cheap mod. The fan hole needs a slight trimming to fit in original hole and matrix is exactly same size as a td5 but is more efficient and has larger capacity. see pics
End result is the same force whilst split between screen and floor vents as with previous original fan just aimed at windscreen.
Load test fan runs at 16 Amp on maximum demand

Flossie · Mar 13, 2018

That's interesting.
So the flaps all work as per original too?

Al2O3 · Mar 13, 2018

rallyka said:
Hi guys
Had an hour free today and whilst sorting out crap in the garage came across a heater matrix from a Mitsubushi Evo.
My landy is a soft top so its been on my mind to try and upgrade this for a while.
Two hours later, matrix and fan installed in original heater box, totally sealed every joint.
Cant tell you what a difference it makes.
Only downside is pipes are a little higher than standard Td5 pipes, thought would cause a problem with air but bled up straight away.
Fan is at least twice as powerful.
Great cheap mod. The fan hole needs a slight trimming to fit in original hole and matrix is exactly same size as a td5 but is more efficient and has larger capacity. see pics
End result is the same force whilst split between screen and floor vents as with previous original fan just aimed at windscreen.
Load test fan runs at 16 Amp on maximum demand

Why can't you tell us what difference it makes? Go on.........you know you want to........

rallyka · Mar 13, 2018

Flossie said:
That's interesting.
So the flaps all work as per original too?

Everything works as per normal

rallyka · Mar 13, 2018

Al2O3 said:
Why can't you tell us what difference it makes? Go on.........you know you want to........

Its a need to know basis. Lol

headintheclouds · Mar 13, 2018

Just checking - 16 Amps? That's about 200 Watts! Is there a decimal point missing?

Al2O3 · Mar 13, 2018

rallyka said:
Its a need to know basis. Lol

Ah, still fairly cold then!

headintheclouds said:
Just checking - 16 Amps? That's about 200 Watts! Is there a decimal point missing?

I think that will be about right, just for the fan.

Flossie · Mar 14, 2018

Al2O3 said:
Ah, still fairly cold then!

I think that will be about right, just for the fan.

I wonder what the standard landy fan pulls? Is the wiring up to 16 amps load?
I've got to say, apart from taking a while to get up to temp (200tdi in a 110) my standard heater is quite good, it burns my calf eventually.

Al2O3 · Mar 14, 2018

Flossie said:
I wonder what the standard landy fan pulls? Is the wiring up to 16 amps load?
I've got to say, apart from taking a while to get up to temp (200tdi in a 110) my standard heater is quite good, it burns my calf eventually.

But is your knee still frozen

not sure what fuse is in the heater fan circuit. 200w is possibly OTT

lynall · Mar 14, 2018

Std fan fuse is 10amp so it might cope with 16 but at sometime its going to fail, as for the wiring maybe okay but the std lucar fittings probably arent!

You would think by now that someone would have come up with a proper drop in fit powerful heater motor? after all 200/300/td5 all pretty much the same.

zeaphod · Mar 14, 2018

I don't think it's really just a problem with the motor, the whole design is ancient. The output from the radiator blows almost straight into the passenger footwell vent - which explains the infamous cold driver/burnt passenger knee! The heaters in most early British cars weren't any better. It's well worth taking time to plug up all the gaps where the warm air is lost before it reaches the vents. As an easy improvement, I added a 3" bilge blower to the heater intake on mine - combined with expanding foam and camping mat to seal some of the gaps, it has made a huge difference. I had to upgrade the fuse from 10 to 20 amps.

Jam1 · Mar 15, 2018

zeaphod said:
I don't think it's really just a problem with the motor, the whole design is ancient. The output from the radiator blows almost straight into the passenger footwell vent - which explains the infamous cold driver/burnt passenger knee! The heaters in most early British cars weren't any better. It's well worth taking time to plug up all the gaps where the warm air is lost before it reaches the vents. As an easy improvement, I added a 3" bilge blower to the heater intake on mine - combined with expanding foam and camping mat to seal some of the gaps, it has made a huge difference. I had to upgrade the fuse from 10 to 20 amps.

Did you uprate the wiring or just the fuse?
If just the fuse I'd seriously check your wiring and put a fire extinguisher in the cab.

zeaphod · Mar 15, 2018

Jam1 said:
Did you uprate the wiring or just the fuse?
If just the fuse I'd seriously check your wiring and put a fire extinguisher in the cab.

LOL, the wiring is good - the extra small motor only adds a few amps, the existing 10amp fuse was OK for a while, but burnt out after a long period of use - and I have a fire extinguisher! (but didn't have 15a fuses at the time)

Mo Murphy · Mar 17, 2018

I wired a bilge blower separately with its own switch and fused supply to avoid any overloading of any part of the system. I just use it to boost the airflow once the engine is fully warmed up.
HTH
Mo

Colthebrummie · Mar 17, 2018

I'm sick of the terrible heater in my Series 3. I've tried everything including the bilge blower. It's freezing in winter and boiling in summer. If ever I need a reason to get rid of it, the heater wil be it.

Col

lightning · Mar 17, 2018

Mo Murphy said:
I wired a bilge blower separately with its own switch and fused supply to avoid any overloading of any part of the system. I just use it to boost the airflow once the engine is fully warmed up.
HTH
Mo

Bilge blower? I could do with a bilge PUMP in my 110 when it rains

lynall · Mar 17, 2018

lightning said:
Bilge blower? I could do with a bilge PUMP in my 110 when it rains

Bilge blower mainly used to remove potentially explosive air from the bilge on petrol engined pleasure craft.

bluedog333 · Mar 17, 2018

I find the fan to be powerful enough as standard, lack of vents is frustrating when things get a bit steamy.

Dippypud · Mar 17, 2018

bluedog333 said:
I find the fan to be powerful enough as standard, lack of vents is frustrating when things get a bit steamy.

That and the air coming out of everywhere BUT the vents ....

norseman · Mar 18, 2018

Colthebrummie said:
I'm sick of the terrible heater in my Series 3. I've tried everything including the bilge blower. It's freezing in winter and boiling in summer. If ever I need a reason to get rid of it, the heater wil be it. Col

It's strange how vehicles of the same model vary. My '73 petrol actually had quite a good heater but my last series, a '79, was not so hot (no pun intended). I think that if I ever had another series or defender I'd invest in one of the various retro-fit upgraded units available on the market, or better still a fuel-fired independent heater.

New Member

Attachments

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

New Member

New Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Never Knowingly Understood

Well-Known Member

Similar threads