Hi Brian ordered some bits of that joint pipe but looking at it now could you not just run the two pipes straight through the bulkhead to the engine bay cheers for advice
 
pete12345 said:
Hi Brian ordered some bits of that joint pipe but looking at it now could you not just run the two pipes straight through the bulkhead to the engine bay cheers for advice
Click to expand...

That's what we did. Some washing up liquid on the grommet through the bulkhead and one person pushing with the other pulling.
 
The two brass connectors go in the engine bay and as Grrrrrr said push pull the hoses through, i think i would do that end first then connect up the matrix
 
The 2 existing metal pipes are done away with then because they seem to be a mare to remove
 
Stufer, thanks for the guide.

I’m to tackle this issue soon. Is there any quicker way of confirming the leak is coming from the O Ring that doesn’t require me dismantling the steering wheel?

Also, since I’m taking off the steering wheel, am I able to follow the DIY guide of replacing the blend motors? I’d rather tackle both jobs at once.
 
V8vrrr said:
Stufer, thanks for the guide.

I’m to tackle this issue soon. Is there any quicker way of confirming the leak is coming from the O Ring that doesn’t require me dismantling the steering wheel?

Also, since I’m taking off the steering wheel, am I able to follow the DIY guide of replacing the blend motors? I’d rather tackle both jobs at once.
Click to expand...
No need to remove the steering wheel to do the heater matrix O rings or the blend motors although I found it a tad more difficult on LHD.
 
V8vrrr said:
Stufer, thanks for the guide.

I’m to tackle this issue soon. Is there any quicker way of confirming the leak is coming from the O Ring that doesn’t require me dismantling the steering wheel?

Also, since I’m taking off the steering wheel, am I able to follow the DIY guide of replacing the blend motors? I’d rather tackle both jobs at once.
Click to expand...

I guess you could get a little endoscope off eBay and poke around or maybe a bit of bog paper on the end of a piece of wire and poke that about. The windscreen trim can leak and the pollen filter boxes but that won't contain antifreeze. The only coolant in the car will be from the infamous o-rinhs or the heater matrix itself giving up the ghost.
 
V8vrrr said:
Stufer, thanks for the guide.

I’m to tackle this issue soon. Is there any quicker way of confirming the leak is coming from the O Ring that doesn’t require me dismantling the steering wheel?

Also, since I’m taking off the steering wheel, am I able to follow the DIY guide of replacing the blend motors? I’d rather tackle both jobs at once.
Click to expand...
I just slid some kitchen towel under the triangular piece and ran the engine . It later came out wet and pink showing in my case the heater matrix
 
Personally I don't agree with all this cutting bits. Better to take the dash out & do the job properly. It's also easier to fix any blend motor issues & sort all the leaky ductwork as well.
 
pwood999 said:
Personally I don't agree with all this cutting bits. Better to take the dash out & do the job properly. It's also easier to fix any blend motor issues & sort all the leaky ductwork as well.
Click to expand...
Only one duct cut required and it's a darn site easier and quicker than removing the dash.
 
I agree and if you use a wire saw it takes less than a minute to make the cut, and then just costs you some duct tape to fix (this is one of those rare moments when you use duct tape for the job it was designed for)
 
Datatek said:
No need to remove the steering wheel to do the heater matrix O rings or the blend motors although I found it a tad more difficult on LHD.
Click to expand...
Is Stufer's guide also useable for the LHD version you think? I'm going to do this job very soon.
 
ar1g3 said:
Is Stufer's guide also useable for the LHD version you think? I'm going to do this job very soon.
Click to expand...
Never seen Stufer's guide. There is a bit more room to work on the LHD but I seem to remember a bracket that made access harder. If the screw comes out without a battle, it's an easy job. Best to fit a socket head screw when reassembling with a good coating of copper slip on the thread..
 
Datatek said:
Never seen Stufer's guide. There is a bit more room to work on the LHD but I seem to remember a bracket that made access harder. If the screw comes out without a battle, it's an easy job. Best to fit a socket head screw when reassembling with a good coating of copper slip on the thread..
Click to expand...
Thanks!

I'll try to update here with some pics and adaptions to Stufer's guide for future reference.
 
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