Might need to back flush the matrix ... when you changed the matrix did you flush the scale through ?
Might need to back flush the matrix ... when you changed the matrix did you flush the scale through ?
I did mean put a hose on the matrix, its a straight forward way to check if its blocked or gummed up
landrover11019
Active Member
If it's a new matrix, it should be clear.
mick the builder
Well-Known Member
My 200tdi heater isn't a patch on my 300tdi and both are working well.
FlyingPete
Well-Known Member
My 90 heater was pretty poor. I disconnected both pipes at the engine end and jammed a garden hose in one of them. All sorts of brown crap came out and eventually it went clear. Next was to seal up all the gaps around the heater box to prevent loss of hot air, and clear any accumulated rubbish from the inlet side.
The best way I found to clear air was to loosen the hose clamps with the engine running and warm, then prise the hose away slightly until coolant starts to come out. Ideal would be to solder a proper bleed screw to the top of each pipe.
If that's all been done, it's worth disconnecting the cable and moving the bypass flap by hand to see if it's moving all the way over. If it's not fully closed then cold air will enter the mix.
The heater flaps in the lower dash, and the pipes leading up to the windscreen are also prone to leaks.
The best way I found to clear air was to loosen the hose clamps with the engine running and warm, then prise the hose away slightly until coolant starts to come out. Ideal would be to solder a proper bleed screw to the top of each pipe.
If that's all been done, it's worth disconnecting the cable and moving the bypass flap by hand to see if it's moving all the way over. If it's not fully closed then cold air will enter the mix.
The heater flaps in the lower dash, and the pipes leading up to the windscreen are also prone to leaks.
Can you remember what the stat looked like?
You want the type of stat with the bypass shut off.
88 degc is the temp Iirc, waxtstat was th emake to have but think no longer in business.
The 200 is so efficient it takes an age to warm up and even when the gauge says its at running temp its not, unless you are working it hard.
The 300 apart from being way gayer
is also less efficient and that goes for every disco engine after the 200 newer = less mpg.Flat, what engine?
flat
Well-Known Member
200tdi, canvas truck cab with insulation.
Dash gauge (durite one) indicates 90c when upto temp.
Thanks again everyone for the help
Going to check my water pump next for leaks then remove the feed pipe to the heater when running and see how much water it's pumping. If all else fails I'll replace the water pump and reflush the coolant again, including washing the feed and return pipes on the engine
Going to check my water pump next for leaks then remove the feed pipe to the heater when running and see how much water it's pumping. If all else fails I'll replace the water pump and reflush the coolant again, including washing the feed and return pipes on the engine
Bet it has the correct temp stat in it.
flat
Well-Known Member
Yeah do oh remember I brought about 5/6 different stats including genuine waxstat (x2) and doing some testing of them.
Of the 6 only one worked within spec. All the others started to open to early (like mid 70’s) or to late (like mid 90’s)
Certainly opened my eyes to the totally varying quality and the massive deofferwnce it made to both the heater and general running
Will look for the thread
flat
Well-Known Member
Here you are,
I have tested a couple others since but have stuck with my genuine good one.
Avoid pattern.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/200tdi-transplant-overcooling-compared-to-2-5na.291740/
I have tested a couple others since but have stuck with my genuine good one.
Avoid pattern.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/200tdi-transplant-overcooling-compared-to-2-5na.291740/
My heater was crap for years until I investigated. As already said there was a gap letting warm air out into engine bay which I solved with a sleeve and foam strip. Secondly the fan, although working, was too slow. Cobbled together a fork shaped adapter to a long spade bit, spray fan with electrical lube, spin it up manually on a variable speed drill till going really fast. Spins brilliantly afterwards.
Solved! Loads of heat and great airflow. First time the soft top has ever been warm in winter
Solved! Loads of heat and great airflow. First time the soft top has ever been warm in winter
Will ring tomorrow where I bought my stat from and see what they likely have sold me and I'll see if they can get me the one your reccomend
Got a pic of the stat?
