jorjio_k

Active Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #1

Hello gents;
Guess definatly now the engine is fooked,i tried all what i can to save the fooker,tstat replaced,water pump,radiator,ALL HOSES,valley gasket,throttle heater to plenum including hoses,heater matrix+o rings,flushed coolant,bled it,etc,no leaks 100%
Now the pressure has increased in the sysytem but not to a point of throwing the coolant outside the expansion tank,but hoses are rock hard,no gazes are present.
I know after skimming the heads pressure will increase beacuse the gap has been reduced due to the fact of skimming the heads,there some liners that have droped but barely,the block was tempered before by the po and new liners were fitted,can i redo it again using the same block or the block have had it?coolant is getting lost and with the slight missfiring that occures i guess the coolant is getting in the combustion chambers in the cylinders.
Slipped liners cause over pressure in the coolant system?even till the morning the pressure is there and a loud hissing can be heard upon opening the cap and the coolant level rises to the mark but it is bloody under pressure even after 12 hours of switching of the engine.
New block with the same skimmed heads,or new engine?

 

fett

Well-Known Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #2

were the liners replaced with top hat ones?

if its still overpressurising and pushing coolant out and you know some liners have slipped, even a little its fooked mate.

new block or top hat liners all round.

 

elsie

Well-Known Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #3

get it top hatted , best solution , pain in the ..... though ..

 

jorjio_k

Active Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #4

fett said:

were the liners replaced with top hat ones?

if its still overpressurising and pushing coolant out and you know some liners have slipped, even a little its fooked mate.

new block or top hat liners all round.

Click to expand...

hey fett cheers,no they were replaced with normal ones,guess the block was bored to refit the ones that i have now,guess the block wont take it anymore,and with the skimmed heads that i have do u recommend reputting them on a new block?

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #5

why would you refit std liners ,there prone enough to crack aliminum bore let alone when fitting new std liners

 

jorjio_k

Active Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #6

cheers james sorry i didn't understand what u mean.i was talking about the heads if i fit them to onother block that already have good liners,is it worth it, refitting them to save some money,or it is better to get an entire engine from a breaker with a one month warranty?and less headache?

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #7

its block cracking that allows liners to slip if they have ,top hat liners make block similar to wet linered block so it doesnt matter if ali bores crack ,you have 2 choices top hat liunered block or a good second hand one with warrenty

 

jorjio_k

Active Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #8

is it true that if these engine never overheat the liners will never slipp or is it just bullock?a time will come and they will slipp whether it overheats or not?

 

jorjio_k

Active Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #9

jamesmartin said:

its block cracking that allows liners to slip if they have ,top hat liners make block similar to wet linered block so it doesnt matter if ali bores crack ,you have 2 choices top hat liunered block or a good second hand one with warrenty

Click to expand...

thanks james.

 

fett

Well-Known Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #10

jamesmartin said:

its block cracking that allows liners to slip if they have ,top hat liners make block similar to wet linered block so it doesnt matter if ali bores crack ,you have 2 choices top hat liunered block or a good second hand one with warrenty

Click to expand...

its as james said.

 

fett

Well-Known Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #11

jorjio_k said:

is it true that if these engine never overheat the liners will never slipp or is it just bullock?a time will come and they will slipp whether it overheats or not?

Click to expand...

the temp guages on rv8 never seem to tell the wholse story, I drove home with no water once after a heter matrix burst and the guage never moved at any point lol. I put a gallon and a half in when I got back and bypassed the heater marix lol

I mean by that they may overheat without you knowing it

 

jorjio_k

Active Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #12

guess a second hand engine will be fitted and i will fit a coolant temperature sensor from the expansion tank with a gauge on the dashboard along with it and a damn digital one also with a big red led light and an alarm horn with it as soon as the coolant reaches 95 celsius, i will make it accurate this time.

 

fett

Well-Known Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #13

lol , I love it . however you may find thats not enough belive it or not!

there is an ever growing school of thought that the lambda sensors constantly telling the engine to switch to lean causes the combustion temperatures to go too high which is what slippes the liners. its not the only factor of course but it is a big one if belived.

Your method may be the best you can do though!

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #14

3.9 engines used to crack even without lambda sensors and they do crack ,and i have actually seen it after removing liners by boring them out

 

jorjio_k

Active Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #15

fett your not encouraging me to replace the engine,all i need is a little hope that the new engine will last on me few more years,if not damn it i will sell the fekker and get a kia lol

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #16

plenty of engines never crack and those that do now often have poor rad or other fault in cooling system

 

fett

Well-Known Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #17

not sure what car you have but a non cat 3.5 is your best chance of no cracks or liner issues. they will of course eb getting old now!

can you pikc up used engines for peanuts out there or are they pricey? is the labour cheap?

 

jorjio_k

Active Member

• Nov 3, 2011

• #18

fett said:

not sure what car you have but a non cat 3.5 is your best chance of no cracks or liner issues. they will of course eb getting old now!

can you pikc up used engines for peanuts out there or are they pricey? is the labour cheap?

Click to expand...

Ansecond hand engine is for 1200$ i will end up paying 1500 $ in total for the work done,without mentioning alot of things that needs replacing once you remove an engine and put onother,labour is the cheapest arround 100$ but what pi$$es me off is knowing that i will replace it again after a while because of the same problem,i love her i love to drive her it is ok if she is costing me but i wont accept replacing onother engine after a couple of years though

 

fett

Well-Known Member

• Nov 4, 2011

• #19

well you need to get a very good engine then, and it may not be easy. mind you if labour is that cheap its not as much of a loss as it is here where you would pay hundreds of £ for an engine swap