I think the light position varied depending on the age of the vehicle. My original headlining before the fire had the light where yours is, but the replacement head lining (which I think came from a TD5) had it between the sun visors. I have one in each position now with a third halfway down the load area, I have a full headling despite being a hard top. As you only have a baby one, you could probably get away with just the single central one you have currently.

Especially if you replace the bulb for an LED version. It should be plenty bright enough then.
 
Especially if you replace the bulb for an LED version. It should be plenty bright enough then.
Oh yeah it's bright enough. It's just that it won't come on when I open the back door which is why I need to buy another. It's got loads of little bulbs in it, so when there's two, I might be able to light up the entire field :0).
20190105_185737.jpg
 
Oh yeah it's bright enough. It's just that it won't come on when I open the back door which is why I need to buy another. It's got loads of little bulbs in it, so when there's two, I might be able to light up the entire field :0).View attachment 166595

They are SMDs. Basically surface mounted LEDs. It will be unbearable with 2.
 
Do you reckon I could link the door pin switch I've bought to this one and leave it positioned in the middle then?

Yes that will be easy to do. Fit the door switch. Get a length of single black wire. Crimp a female spade on it for the new door switch. Run the cable up the side of the rear door, along the headlining, and connect it up to the earth wire. One of my earth wires is wired direct to the chassis, this wire is used for the 3 way switch on the housing. The other is connected to all the door switches, so any switch will turn on all lights.
 
Yes that will be easy to do. Fit the door switch. Get a length of single black wire. Crimp a female spade on it for the new door switch. Run the cable up the side of the rear door, along the headlining, and connect it up to the earth wire. One of my earth wires is wired direct to the chassis, this wire is used for the 3 way switch on the housing. The other is connected to all the door switches, so any switch will turn on all lights.
Just drawn this. It's how I did a wall light? Is this what you mean?

20190105_191630.jpg
 
Just drawn this. It's how I did a wall light? Is this what you mean?

View attachment 166597

Not really. Leave everything as it was before you removed the headlining. Fit your new switch to the rear door area. Run a single wire, preferably black to signify 0V/earth, up to the black wire on the current light.

Your current light should have 3 wires going up to it. One live, probably a purple, and 2 blacks (these may not be solid black, and should be different colour traces). Connect your black wire from your switch to one of the earth wires. I can’t remember which wire I connected to, but one didn’t work correctly.
 
No, I've just been out to look (attached). There's only two wires?? Yours might be a newer model. Mine's a 1992 older one:

20190105_192939.jpg
 
No, I've just been out to look (attached). There's only two wires?? Yours might be a newer model. Mine's a 1992 older one:

View attachment 166601

Mine is also a 1992, but it’s a 110 CSW. Maybe yours is wired differently?

Either way, that makes it easier do you to wire up. Connect the new door switch, with a black wire, to the current black wire at the light. If you have a multimeter, check to make sure the black is earth before assuming and possibly shorting to earth.
 
Mine is also a 1992, but it’s a 110 CSW. Maybe yours is wired differently?

Either way, that makes it easier do you to wire up. Connect the new door switch, with a black wire, to the current black wire at the light. If you have a multimeter, check to make sure the black is earth before assuming and possibly shorting to earth.
Brilliant. I know exactly what I'm doing now. Thanks for being patient. Got a multi-meter under the stairs and your very words are now on my blackboard. Cheers.
 
Can anyone answer any of the questions on my pic. I can't get the answers on youtube. Cheers

View attachment 166809

Most of my roof wiring is run down either side, same as the rear washer tube on the passenger side.

I insulated over all the beams on my roof, and if I were to do it again, I wouldn’t this time. It made the roof lining a bitch to put back on, and the extra insulation you gain from covering them is probably negligible.

I sealed my roof from outside, but I sealed every joint on the roof.

The sunroof will probably be best sealed from outside too.

Don’t cover them front holes. They house the nut plates for the roof to windscreen bolts.
 
Most of my roof wiring is run down either side, same as the rear washer tube on the passenger side.

I insulated over all the beams on my roof, and if I were to do it again, I wouldn’t this time. It made the roof lining a bitch to put back on, and the extra insulation you gain from covering them is probably negligible.

I sealed my roof from outside, but I sealed every joint on the roof.

The sunroof will probably be best sealed from outside too.

Don’t cover them front holes. They house the nut plates for the roof to windscreen bolts.
Superstar. Cheers for that. I know what I'm doing now.
 

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