M

moth

Member

• Jan 23, 2018

• #1

The head tightening sequence given by Elring on the leaflet enclosed with the gasket is a simple "centre outwards" spiral. The standard one in my manual is a more scattered affair. Which sequence are you guys using?
Cheers.

 

flat

Well-Known Member

• Jan 23, 2018

• #2

Go by the one in the Land Rover workshop manual which is more specific than just ‘centre out’

I can take a photo of it when I get home from work later if you want?

 

Blackburn

Well-Known Member

• Jan 23, 2018

• #3

look for smithies landroveron the web NZ site of interest there is a pdf manual there for 200tdi engine & 300tdi

 

flat

Well-Known Member

• Jan 24, 2018

• #4

moth said:

The head tightening sequence given by Elring on the leaflet enclosed with the gasket is a simple "centre outwards" spiral. The standard one in my manual is a more scattered affair. Which sequence are you guys using?
Cheers.

Click to expand...

THis is the LR workshop manual

 

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M

moth

Member

• Jan 25, 2018

• #5

Thanks for the info. Yes that non-elring one is like the one I had. There doesn't seem to be any easy way of remembering it. I can normally get a pattern in my head but that's all over the place.

 

Flossie

Well-Known Member

• Jan 25, 2018

• #6

That's why I suggested in your other thread about getting a helper to point at the next bolt head in the sequence.
It's a lot quicker and saves a bit of head scratching!
The helper can also help to pull the breaker bar on the final stage cos it's hard work, pulled me back once doing it!

 

L

lynall

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Jan 25, 2018

• #7

Torque, tipex, angle tighten and dont worry about it

 

dstainton

Well-Known Member

• Jan 25, 2018

• #8

Old-school shop teacher taught me Centre out in spiral. He said because it doesn't set up stresses between bolts which can lead to head warp, or cracking.

 

M

moth

Member

• Feb 6, 2018

• #9

Feedback:
So it's together now using the workshop manual sequence. I was working solo so just wrote the sequence numbers on the bolt heads in the end (underline 6 and 9!!). I used a paint pen line right on one hex corner of each bolt radially down across the flange to the head to doubly monitor. I made a simple plastic protractor disc gripped by a rubber friction sleeve on the socket For the pointer I just took a bit of old coolant hose that snugly fits over a valve spring cap and punched an old cafetiere rod through that. The pointer unit can thus be swapped to the most parallax-free position and the rod pulled in and out so it's just shy of the periphery of the disc.