Intestinalworm

Intestinalworm

Well-Known Member
Almost have everything together now and will have time this weekend to start on the head gasket job on the Disco 2/Td5.

Whilst waiting, during the evenings I've looked through the Haynes manual, checked various forum posts, watched several very good Youtube videos and will now look over RAVE.

Not 100% sure if I have everything or might be missing something important (I'm trying to do my research to make sure I have everything at hand once I start). Different sources have slightly different recommendations. Here are several things I want to be clear on, and hopefully someone might be able to advise:
  • Noticed that ERR 6616 (Pad Insulation (5 off)) are part of a Turner Engineering head gasket kit. I haven't got these in my kit - is it really necessary to use new ones (see below diagram - part 12)?
  • 702_injector_pipes_and_filter.png
  • Also, Injector clamp mounting bolt (5 off) MBD100050 - refer above diagram, part 11. Do I need a new set of these?
  • Also, LYG101510 Camshaft Bolts (6 off) - again, do I have to (should I) use new ones?
  • Camshaft sprocket bolts ERR 7070 (3 off) - some recommend replace, others say they don't get stretched - just reuse?
Strange one though, I did get one of these in my kit:
· Core Plug (Welsh Plug) ERR 6674?

Can't work out why this is in there? Surely you don't need to remove the existing Welsh plug?

Finally, I will have to remove the vacuum pump (alternator) oil supply line and so I should replace the small o-ring when I reinstall it. Does anyone know the part number for this o-ring?
 
Last edited:
Intestinalworm said:
Also, LYG101510 Camshaft Bolts (6 off) - again, do I have to (should I) use new ones?
Click to expand...
Yes you should use new for these ... even though these are rocker shaft bolts not camshaft bolts, quite a difference between these two shafts though, as long as they look OK the other parst you mentioned can be reused IMO
 
sierrafery said:
Yes you should use new for these ... even though these are rocker shaft bolts not camshaft bolts, quite a difference between these two shafts though, as long as they look OK the other parst you mentioned can be reused IMO
Click to expand...
Your location is Arad - Transylvania?
 
Intestinalworm said:
Almost have everything together now and will have time this weekend to start on the head gasket job on the Disco 2/Td5.

Whilst waiting, during the evenings I've looked through the Haynes manual, checked various forum posts, watched several very good Youtube videos and will now look over RAVE.

Not 100% sure if I have everything or might be missing something important (I'm trying to do my research to make sure I have everything at hand once I start). Different sources have slightly different recommendations. Here are several things I want to be clear on, and hopefully someone might be able to advise:
  • Noticed that ERR 6616 (Pad Insulation (5 off)) are part of a Turner Engineering head gasket kit. I haven't got these in my kit - is it really necessary to use new ones (see below diagram - part 12)?
  • 702_injector_pipes_and_filter.png
  • Also, Injector clamp mounting bolt (5 off) MBD100050 - refer above diagram, part 11. Do I need a new set of these?
  • Also, LYG101510 Camshaft Bolts (6 off) - again, do I have to (should I) use new ones?
  • Camshaft sprocket bolts ERR 7070 (3 off) - some recommend replace, others say they don't get stretched - just reuse?
Strange one though, I did get one of these in my kit:
· Core Plug (Welsh Plug) ERR 6674?

Can't work out why this is in there? Surely you don't need to remove the existing Welsh plug?

Finally, I will have to remove the vacuum pump (alternator) oil supply line and so I should replace the small o-ring when I reinstall it. Does anyone know the part number for this o-ring?
Click to expand...
You don't NEED to replace the core plug, but it is a good idea to do so as it's a fecker to get to when the had is in place and it starts weeping on you!!
As for the other bits and bobs, you can replace whatever you want with new, it'll give you peace of mind but many of them won't need it, as others have said.
Yes do replace any "o" rings associated with oil supply pipes, sorry, don't know the number but looking on any Landy bits suppliers should tell you, or you may find it in RAVE.
Best of luck with what looks like a very neat and thorough job you are doing.:):):)
 
Intestinalworm said:
Finally, I will have to remove the vacuum pump (alternator) oil supply line and so I should replace the small o-ring when I reinstall it. Does anyone know the part number for this o-ring?
Click to expand...
That o-ring is not listed as spare, if you remove the pipe and seems in good shape let it be, if it looks bad you'll have to measure and go by dimensions
 
Stanleysteamer said:
You don't NEED to replace the core plug, but it is a good idea to do so as it's a fecker to get to when the had is in place and it starts weeping on you!!
As for the other bits and bobs, you can replace whatever you want with new, it'll give you peace of mind but many of them won't need it, as others have said.
Yes do replace any "o" rings associated with oil supply pipes, sorry, don't know the number but looking on any Landy bits suppliers should tell you, or you may find it in RAVE.
Best of luck with what looks like a very neat and thorough job you are doing.:):):)
Click to expand...

Having time to do some research (online in the evenings) helps! Thanks for the tip re the inlet and exhaust manifold - heard so many stories about broken studs (will carefully remove when it's all lifted out). My son is in Bali on Uni break holidays - need him to be back as well to help me lift the bugger out - don't want to damage anything trying to lift it out!

I found a machine shop that will do a good price - been around for a while - spoke to the guy and he seems to be clued up and very experienced. I'll take the old cylinder head to him to clean/test/skim/re-harden. I will take the rocker shaft (not camshaft!;)) and injectors out of the cylinder head, but leave everything else (valves mainly) - I assume that's how it's done?!

If I had the dough to spare lying around I'd buy a new AMC head direct from Turner Engineering - maybe next time!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
You don't NEED to replace the core plug, but it is a good idea to do so as it's a fecker to get to when the had is in place and it starts weeping on you!!
As for the other bits and bobs, you can replace whatever you want with new, it'll give you peace of mind but many of them won't need it, as others have said.
Yes do replace any "o" rings associated with oil supply pipes, sorry, don't know the number but looking on any Landy bits suppliers should tell you, or you may find it in RAVE.
Best of luck with what looks like a very neat and thorough job you are doing.:):):)
Click to expand...


Seeing I have the core (Welsh) plug, how easy is it to remove, and more importantly to install - don't want the new one popping out on me! Any special tool/s, techniques or paste/adhesive? I will at least have a good look at it and if it's not weeping I might just leave it alone!

I also have the coalescer gasket (ERR7175) for under the rocker cover (goes behind that rivetted plate) - bugger if I'm changing that!!! Strange one to supply in a kit!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
You don't NEED to replace the core plug, but it is a good idea to do so as it's a fecker to get to when the had is in place and it starts weeping on you!!
As for the other bits and bobs, you can replace whatever you want with new, it'll give you peace of mind but many of them won't need it, as others have said.
Yes do replace any "o" rings associated with oil supply pipes, sorry, don't know the number but looking on any Landy bits suppliers should tell you, or you may find it in RAVE.
Best of luck with what looks like a very neat and thorough job you are doing.:):):)
Click to expand...


Seeing I have the core (Welsh) plug, how easy is it to remove, and more importantly to install - don't want the new one popping out on me! Any special tool/s, techniques or paste/adhesive? I will at least have a good look at it and if it's not weeping I might just leave it alone!

I also have the coalescer gasket (ERR7175) for under the rocker cover (goes behind that rivetted plate) - bugger if I'm changing that!!! Strange one to supply in a kit!
 
sierrafery said:
Yes you should use new for these ... even though these are rocker shaft bolts not camshaft bolts, quite a difference between these two shafts though, as long as they look OK the other parst you mentioned can be reused IMO
Click to expand...

Always learning - will find out the difference between rocker and cam - have seen it listed both ways; I will use "rocker" from now on!
 
A few kits have these "dowels" or "insulation pads" ERR 6616 - 5 off (for each injector). Do these wear down or something (not much on the internet, so I guess not), or is it just a way for the parts supplier to sell more? What is their purpose?
 
As @sierrafery says, massive difference between a rocker shaft and a camshaft.
The camshaft rotates, timed in with the crankshaft so that the lobes on it present themselves to the rocker at precisely the right moment to allow air in or exhaust gases out, the rocker shaft doesn't turn at all, it just allows the rockers to transmit the upwards movement of the lobe on the cam to a downwards movement on the end of the valve stem to open the valve to admit air in or exhaust out. They "rock" on the rocker shaft, imagine a beam in a very old, steam beam, engine. A rocker is just like that only far, far smaller.
It might be a good idea to get one of those "build it yourself" clear plastic engines made by Haynes, which help you understand how an engine works.
i know it is petrol but the main bits are very much the shame.
https://haynesmuseumshop.org/products/build-your-own-4-cylinder-engine-kit
 
Intestinalworm said:
Seeing I have the core (Welsh) plug, how easy is it to remove, and more importantly to install - don't want the new one popping out on me! Any special tool/s, techniques or paste/adhesive? I will at least have a good look at it and if it's not weeping I might just leave it alone!

I also have the coalescer gasket (ERR7175) for under the rocker cover (goes behind that rivetted plate) - bugger if I'm changing that!!! Strange one to supply in a kit!
Click to expand...
I'm sure there must be threads and "favourite adhesive/paste" threads on here. to help you remove and replace a core plug. The reason for doing it is that they can rust through and/or weep. You can use some quite brutal methods to remove them and most just pop the new one in using a socket of the right size and a hammer. The one behind my exhaust manifold was weeping until I put some stop leak stuff in when the water pump started giving up the ghost. Luckily if I had to change it I know I could get my exhaust manifold off reasonably easily as I have already had the usual nightmare with it, but i still wouldn't want to do it. which is why I am saying replace that core plug while it's easy to do.
This is the sort of stuff you can use to seal it with
https://www.vibra-tite.com/retainin... retaining,plugs installed into engine blocks.
But in Oz land you may need to get what is more easily available.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
the rocker shaft doesn't turn at all, it just allows the rockers to transmit the upwards movement of the lobe on the cam to a downwards movement on the end of the valve stem to open the valve to admit air in or exhaust out.
Click to expand...

I might be misreading your comment but to clarify, the rockers on the rocker shaft do not operate the valves but the injector plungers. As for the valves, these are moved by finger followers located underneath the camshaft.
 
NPG said:
I might be misreading your comment but to clarify, the rockers on the rocker shaft do not operate the valves but the injector plungers. As for the valves, these are moved by finger followers located underneath the camshaft.
Click to expand...
I'm sure you are right as I have far more experience with petrol engines than with diesel.:oops:
But it is still true that a camshaft has lobes on and turns while a rocker shaft doesn't turn and provides the fulcrum for the rocker to rotate around.
But thanks for the clarification.:):):)
 
sierrafery said:
Yes you should use new for these ... even though these are rocker shaft bolts not camshaft bolts, quite a difference between these two shafts though, as long as they look OK the other parst you mentioned can be reused IMO
Click to expand...

Okay, ordered the rocker shaft bolts from Paddock Spares - think that's it now - just waiting on a few bits and pieces.
 
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