Bustrucket

Bustrucket

Active Member
My 2006 L322 TD6 is having a sulk. A few days ago I started it from cold and was immediately rewarded with the 'HDC Fault' & 'Suspension Lowered' messages on the dash. I've owned the car for nearly six months and during that time apart from a knocking between 15-25mph from the prop bearing (UJ and bearing are in need of replacement) it's been pretty much trouble free for the 5,000 or so miles I've done. Ever since I've had the car it's had a slightly nose down attitude, but it's been like that for some time (I've known the car for several years).

The ABS and yellow (!) lights are on as well as the fault lamp in the middle of the cluster. My cheap OBD2 reader won't really touch anything, and from a cursory glance nothing appears loose or broken underneath. The suspension height adjustment is inactive (lower and middle lights lit).

Anyone want to take an edumacated guess as to what the fault(s) might be?

Thanks.
 
First rule of l322 fault finding is make sure battery is 110% as low volts will throw up faults for fun, the key to your problem is that they came up after a cold start which will indicate that the volts dropped as the starter turned the engine over robbing the other ecu`s of the power they need so went in to fault,
fit the biggest battery that will fit MF31 110ah 1000cca
 
brianp38dse said:
First rule of l322 fault finding is make sure battery is 110% as low volts will throw up faults for fun, the key to your problem is that they came up after a cold start which will indicate that the volts dropped as the starter turned the engine over robbing the other ecu`s of the power they need so went in to fault,
fit the biggest battery that will fit MF31 110ah 1000cca
Click to expand...
MF31 110ah 1000cca Battery Megastore, less than £100 delivered.
 
Thanks folks. Before I lash out on a new battery, if I get the old battery on charge and make sure its well topped up will that have any chance of removing the faults (just to prove the issue really is the battery)?
 
Bustrucket said:
Thanks folks. Before I lash out on a new battery, if I get the old battery on charge and make sure its well topped up will that have any chance of removing the faults (just to prove the issue really is the battery)?
Click to expand...
Fully charging the battery may improve things. Half an hour after coming off charge you should see at least 12.8 volts. After reconnecting the battery to the car it should not drop below 12.6 volts.
 
Bustrucket said:
Thanks folks. Before I lash out on a new battery, if I get the old battery on charge and make sure its well topped up will that have any chance of removing the faults (just to prove the issue really is the battery)?
Click to expand...
Why not check the battery volts now before you put on charge ? might be down to 12.1 and then you can charge give you more room to gauge your fault.
Can you re-set the codes with your reader ?
you need to get something that can read live data with these then the ease kicks in as people on the forums can help you better.
 
I'll have a look after work tomorrow - I need to dig out the multimeter and the battery charger anyway. Unfortunately my code reader is programmed only for BMWs & Minis and can't see the HDC/suspension faults (it'll see a couple of things on the L322 if set to E53 X5 mode but nothing important), I could do with investing in a proper diagnostic tool really.

If all else fails its off to the local specialist in a couple of weeks for a new propshaft and carrier bearing so he'll have a look at it then, and see if the ride height also needs calibrating.
 
Bustrucket said:
I'll have a look after work tomorrow - I need to dig out the multimeter and the battery charger anyway. Unfortunately my code reader is programmed only for BMWs & Minis and can't see the HDC/suspension faults (it'll see a couple of things on the L322 if set to E53 X5 mode but nothing important), I could do with investing in a proper diagnostic tool really.

If all else fails its off to the local specialist in a couple of weeks for a new propshaft and carrier bearing so he'll have a look at it then, and see if the ride height also needs calibrating.
Click to expand...
Have you messured the ride height ? get yourself INPA mate and a few on here will help you understand it.
Calibrated mine myself.
 
dazer200 said:
Have you messured the ride height ? get yourself INPA mate and a few on here will help you understand it.
Calibrated mine myself.
Click to expand...

The car has had a noticeable nose-down attitude for some time. I've not bothered with it until now because it rode fine and rose/dropped as it should. With the HDC/suspension fault both front and rear have settled an inch or so lower and the ride is much more harsh at the front (but not bouncing on the bump stops). I didn't realise INPA would work on an L322, I thought I'd end up shelling out for a Nanocom or similar. Only problem is as I understand it INPA doesn't play nice with iOS (or at least not without messing around with it) and I don't have a Windows machine spare.
 
Bustrucket said:
The car has had a noticeable nose-down attitude for some time. I've not bothered with it until now because it rode fine and rose/dropped as it should. With the HDC/suspension fault both front and rear have settled an inch or so lower and the ride is much more harsh at the front (but not bouncing on the bump stops). I didn't realise INPA would work on an L322, I thought I'd end up shelling out for a Nanocom or similar. Only problem is as I understand it INPA doesn't play nice with iOS (or at least not without messing around with it) and I don't have a Windows machine spare.
Click to expand...
No mate ya need a windows machine to use it properly, get an old laptop dont worry about the battery RR will drain much quicker so youll need an extension lead on it, under 100 quid and youll be up and running.
 
Just been out with the multimeter. 11.8v across the battery terminals with the car having not been started for two days, which isn't brilliant. Alternator is putting 14.2v in when running. Got a Noco battery charger/conditioner on it now, see if that helps. Putting some feelers out for a cheap Windows laptop, I did find an old Samsung netbook (mini laptop running Win 7) but it's probably too old and creaky. Any recommendations for where to get INPA from? Seems to be loads of discs with leads on eBay but no idea if they're any good or not.
 
Bustrucket said:
Just been out with the multimeter. 11.8v across the battery terminals with the car having not been started for two days, which isn't brilliant. Alternator is putting 14.2v in when running. Got a Noco battery charger/conditioner on it now, see if that helps. Putting some feelers out for a cheap Windows laptop, I did find an old Samsung netbook (mini laptop running Win 7) but it's probably too old and creaky. Any recommendations for where to get INPA from? Seems to be loads of discs with leads on eBay but no idea if they're any good or not.
Click to expand...
11.8 volts is pretty much flat, the battery may not recover if it's been like that often or for a long time. 14.2 volts is on the low side but OK if you top up the battery with a charger from time to time.
 
Bustrucket said:
Just been out with the multimeter. 11.8v across the battery terminals with the car having not been started for two days, which isn't brilliant. Alternator is putting 14.2v in when running. Got a Noco battery charger/conditioner on it now, see if that helps. Putting some feelers out for a cheap Windows laptop, I did find an old Samsung netbook (mini laptop running Win 7) but it's probably too old and creaky. Any recommendations for where to get INPA from? Seems to be loads of discs with leads on eBay but no idea if they're any good or not.
Click to expand...
ya battery is dying mate and ya range rover is trying to tell you in a way as not to offend you lol, it dont know your getting worried lol.
Battery is king on these, we have deisel/petrol/hybrid and electric rr is kinda deisel/petrol and lots of electric !
Alternator good mate change you batterry.
 
Just been out to it, battery fully charged (12.9v on the multimeter) but the fault is still present. I'll recheck the voltage tomorrow (mainly to see how much it'll have dropped) but ultimately I'll almost certainly be ordering a battery (a pair actually as I need one for another car too), so we'll see if that fixes the problem.
Will this work for my INPA needs?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363614385872?hash=item54a91b36d0:g:RIYAAOSwkABhtO9Q
 
Bustrucket said:
Just been out to it, battery fully charged (12.9v on the multimeter) but the fault is still present. I'll recheck the voltage tomorrow (mainly to see how much it'll have dropped) but ultimately I'll almost certainly be ordering a battery (a pair actually as I need one for another car too), so we'll see if that fixes the problem.
Will this work for my INPA needs?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363614385872?hash=item54a91b36d0:g:RIYAAOSwkABhtO9Q
Click to expand...
Yes mate that will work, will be in German but easy to use volts, MM are all universal.
 
Right, new battery fitted. Definitely starts better, but no change for the HDC fault or warning lights on the dash.

Next stop, an INPA cable and laptop.
 
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