Chaser
New Member
It could be a fault in towbar electrics particularly if you have 12s socket.
Pin 1 of the 12s is the dedicated pin for reverse lights
It could be a fault in towbar electrics particularly if you have 12s socket.
Pin 1 of the 12s is the dedicated pin for reverse lights
Thanks
I'll have a look at that as well, rear window now won't move under any circumstances with console button, by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting, remote control or sledgehammer! 4 bleeps seem to indicate that the request is getting to the ECU but alas no movement. Maybe time for an expert to look.
I'll have a look at that as well, rear window now won't move under any circumstances with console button, by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting, remote control or sledgehammer! 4 bleeps seem to indicate that the request is getting to the ECU but alas no movement. Maybe time for an expert to look.
Hi all, I have a 2002 Freelander TD4 and I have a problem with the three amigos that ABS / HDC / TC. I checked the brake pedal sensor because after I read here I believe that that may be a problem, I changed and
ABS sensors because one before I was to drive tester and told me that the problem is the left rear wheel but no results. The tester was able to erase my mistakes but after he started the engine and go about 5 feet away it felt like a brake light and the board witnesses were rekindled. From what I heard that short braking that occurs every time after you start the engine could be selftestul the abs, you can enlightened me. Besides, the rear wheel that changed anything but I do not know what because wheel car was damaged and it is possible that one who had changed bearing repair? if the change, he has no shirt magnetic sensor that interacts with the head?
regards
ABS sensors because one before I was to drive tester and told me that the problem is the left rear wheel but no results. The tester was able to erase my mistakes but after he started the engine and go about 5 feet away it felt like a brake light and the board witnesses were rekindled. From what I heard that short braking that occurs every time after you start the engine could be selftestul the abs, you can enlightened me. Besides, the rear wheel that changed anything but I do not know what because wheel car was damaged and it is possible that one who had changed bearing repair? if the change, he has no shirt magnetic sensor that interacts with the head?
regards
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Skynet
Well-Known Member
Just found this thread after my 04HSE had intermittment HDC and TC only warning lights. Didnt check the brake lights, though will do soon, however found that turning the engine off and on again the warning lights clear!
Also just found a small nut laying in the footwell.... guess what I will be checking next!!!!
Also just found a small nut laying in the footwell.... guess what I will be checking next!!!!
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wstewart2004
New Member
i love this web site.
had same problem with 2001 td4, hdc and tc lights on, but on first press of brake pedel
lights didnt work but on second press they did, took off switch pressed in and out a few times and now works ok, still ordering new one though, many thanks to all of you.
will remember to donate when i get paid.
billy
had same problem with 2001 td4, hdc and tc lights on, but on first press of brake pedel
lights didnt work but on second press they did, took off switch pressed in and out a few times and now works ok, still ordering new one though, many thanks to all of you.
will remember to donate when i get paid.
billy
Skynet
Well-Known Member
Well I had a play with the switch and it was a bugger to get it to work properly afterwards for the brake lights to work. Anyway it continued to show the lights intermittently before finally stopping. It came back today after I had been towing a large c'van. Bear in mind that being an automatic, I use the brake pedal to deselect Park. I forgot to check to if the brake lights didnt come on but I'm confused as to why turning the engine Off then On the fault disappears.....
Chaser
New Member
The warning lights clear after the ignition on bulb check because it's not a permanent fault, just an intermittent poor contact in the pedal switch.
BTW there are different switches dependant on the Abs system. After 2002my working brake lights are not an indication that the switch is OK.
BTW there are different switches dependant on the Abs system. After 2002my working brake lights are not an indication that the switch is OK.
I had the same problem the other day, I went to the main dealer parts department, they said its a common fault, and the switch and wire is an upgraded part (apparently its a vw brake switch they are using now)
My local garage fitted it for free and problem solved.
total cost £20.75, ill admit, wouldnt have had a clue if i hadnt found this thread, pat on the back for this forum yet again!
My local garage fitted it for free and problem solved.
total cost £20.75, ill admit, wouldnt have had a clue if i hadnt found this thread, pat on the back for this forum yet again!
firespritepointers
New Member
Hi, this forum is a gem!
Firstly plz reply in non landy girl speak as altho i love the black bus i havent got a clue about all the mechanical bits beyond oil, water, tyres n basics.
I have a freelander o4 or o5 (cant remember) and for a few months or so have had very infrequent TC and the little yello/amber car pic come up on the dash. A quick hard jab on the brakes or a stop n restart has always shifted it. But its been more and more frequent. As i need to take my mum away for a holiday in a week or so i have booked it into a garage. So i dont get a long "investigation" type labour charge, what key things should i ask them to look into first...?
cheers guys your hopefully........
Firstly plz reply in non landy girl speak as altho i love the black bus i havent got a clue about all the mechanical bits beyond oil, water, tyres n basics.
I have a freelander o4 or o5 (cant remember) and for a few months or so have had very infrequent TC and the little yello/amber car pic come up on the dash. A quick hard jab on the brakes or a stop n restart has always shifted it. But its been more and more frequent. As i need to take my mum away for a holiday in a week or so i have booked it into a garage. So i dont get a long "investigation" type labour charge, what key things should i ask them to look into first...?
cheers guys your hopefully........
Has anyone got the general cost and part number for this brake light switch?
Best place to buy it from?
It seems the one on my 2001 TD4 needs replacing due to similar symptoms as everyone else.
Engine running, drive away, press brake pedal, TC lights appear (only on every 2nd depress) then disspapear!
Cheers
Best place to buy it from?
It seems the one on my 2001 TD4 needs replacing due to similar symptoms as everyone else.
Engine running, drive away, press brake pedal, TC lights appear (only on every 2nd depress) then disspapear!
Cheers
From research it appears that some Landrover spares shops still sell the original brake light switch priced at around £8
However a few Landrover dealers have told me that the original switch has been superceded by this 2 piece switch kit (£9 for the switch and £11 for the wiring loom/ adapter) priced at £24 inc VAT
So my question is....
If I can still buy an original switch, should I?
Or should I buy the new 2 piece swich?
What are the benefits of the new wiring loom?
Does the switch have to be adjusted after fitment?
Any chance the new wiring can snag on anything?
Is it an easy fit?
Another patent company - 'FACET' that produces a 'straight' switch - part number 71050 - price £7.50
Famous Four sell one that is 'L' shpaed - part number 1A326957 - Price - £8
If the switch I have installed is the original type, then at 123k mileage - it's done alright to last this long
Lastly can the brake light switch, if on its way out, needs replacing cause any other problems with any of the other electrical circuits on the vehicle?
Thanks for reading
However a few Landrover dealers have told me that the original switch has been superceded by this 2 piece switch kit (£9 for the switch and £11 for the wiring loom/ adapter) priced at £24 inc VAT
So my question is....
If I can still buy an original switch, should I?
Or should I buy the new 2 piece swich?
What are the benefits of the new wiring loom?
Does the switch have to be adjusted after fitment?
Any chance the new wiring can snag on anything?
Is it an easy fit?
Another patent company - 'FACET' that produces a 'straight' switch - part number 71050 - price £7.50
Famous Four sell one that is 'L' shpaed - part number 1A326957 - Price - £8
If the switch I have installed is the original type, then at 123k mileage - it's done alright to last this long
Lastly can the brake light switch, if on its way out, needs replacing cause any other problems with any of the other electrical circuits on the vehicle?
Thanks for reading
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I took the brake switch off (part number - XKB000010) and dismantled it.
Pull the plunger out and the main body can be taken out.
There is a metallic strip which folds around the base of the body and there are 2 springs inside the body butted up on the inside of the metal strip.
The metal strip had come loose, as one of the retaining keyways on the plastic body had worn down over time, so every 2nd push of the brake pedal would clear the TC lights when braking, because the strip was being pushed into the correct postion to make the contact.
I used a soldering iron to slightly melt the side recess on the plastic body to renew the keyway, the metal strip stays in place now.
Switch fixed - no more TC lights when braking!
In the meantime I did buy one just in case, found the exact same original one on fleabay!
LAND ROVER FREELANDER BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH ASSEMBLY from 1A326957 | eBay
Pull the plunger out and the main body can be taken out.
There is a metallic strip which folds around the base of the body and there are 2 springs inside the body butted up on the inside of the metal strip.
The metal strip had come loose, as one of the retaining keyways on the plastic body had worn down over time, so every 2nd push of the brake pedal would clear the TC lights when braking, because the strip was being pushed into the correct postion to make the contact.
I used a soldering iron to slightly melt the side recess on the plastic body to renew the keyway, the metal strip stays in place now.
Switch fixed - no more TC lights when braking!
In the meantime I did buy one just in case, found the exact same original one on fleabay!
LAND ROVER FREELANDER BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH ASSEMBLY from 1A326957 | eBay
Hy everyone , I resolved the problem with my 3 amigos.
I tested it on a tester and showed me the wheel does not give response to abs, I opened drums did not know where the sensor reading on the planetary gear wheel or magnet from bearing.
When I opened it I realized with amazement that shirt was placed opposite magnetic bearing, not the sensor but with the spindle.
We returned bearing, and when I started the car and we traveled 3 meters all three amigos were off.
Try to post some pictures.
I tested it on a tester and showed me the wheel does not give response to abs, I opened drums did not know where the sensor reading on the planetary gear wheel or magnet from bearing.
When I opened it I realized with amazement that shirt was placed opposite magnetic bearing, not the sensor but with the spindle.
We returned bearing, and when I started the car and we traveled 3 meters all three amigos were off.
Try to post some pictures.
