Burnham

Member
For my first post*, an amusing tale of woe... (which appears to be quite common round these parts!)

I have a post 2004 facelift model Freelander 1 with the super popular 1.8 petrol lump (yes, sarcasm!)
This year after having a garage service my cars for many years, I decided to once again do them myself.
It's probably more than 15 years since I serviced a car... and I recall my "amusement" when a Haynes manual described something like, "undo retaining screw and withdraw", a statement that would generally preceed 4 hours of cursing and several bleeding knuckles. And so it is today, "Release the retaining screws and remove the engine undertray." Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha.....

Yeah, I know what I now need to do, but what a ball ache. Either previous services have been done by Mr. Tickle, or the oil filter is the one it left the factory with!

I'm half way through the task, but it's Friday night, and beer is more important right now!

I may need asistance tomorrow!

*turns out that's a lie. I have posted before!
 
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At least you got the undertray off. Loads on here have failed at that. It's also different dependent on year of manufacture, so you can try and help but make things worse.
At least you went for the ultra reliable 1.8:)

They're actually not that bad so long as you look after them, plenty on here to advise you.
Mike
 
When I first tried to remove the undertray, I was completely baffled despite having instructions from here and I resorted to ripping the plastic off the undertray fram so I could change the oil as I had an MOT due within days.
I then learnt ho to remove the tray and purchased a second hand replacement.

Takes me around 30 mins or less now to get the damn thing off.
 
Oh, I've not actually managed to get it off yet!
Three bolts ceased so squirted a load of WD40 around and went inside for beer.
I will have another go in the morning. Judging by the one bolt that was sheared by a previous attempt (not me) and one the immediately sheared when I "undid" it I'm going to have fun and games!

I've previous experience of removing sheared studs, so not too worried... yet!

It is a really rediculous design isn't it?
 
It's a 15 minute job removing the facelift sump guard, providing the 2 front bolts come out. It's a 10 minute job on the pre facelift.

The 1.8 oil filter can be stuck fast, so a strap remover is needed. The V6 is a pita because the sump wraps round the filter, so a strap doesn't fit. :(
 
I see, praising you too early.
There are many methods.
I like to undo the front first, stick my feet up to support it, then undo the back. You can then lower it and push it from under the car in one go!!
It's quite a thing to see:)
Mike
 
I see, praising you too early.
There are many methods.
I like to undo the front first, stick my feet up to support it, then undo the back. You can then lower it and push it from under the car in one go!!
It's quite a thing to see:)
Mike

Having a TD4. I just cut a hole in the plastic, under the drain plug. That way I can change the oil in 10 minutes, without having to balance the guard on my feet!
 
Having a TD4. I just cut a hole in the plastic, under the drain plug. That way I can change the oil in 10 minutes, without having to balance the guard on my feet!
Yes, I've got the obligatory hole for an oil change. But messing with the autobox is a different matter, as you know. It has to come off then. Maybe I could make a video of my method and post it in YouTube, become an overnight sensation! Or not:D
Mike
 
My undertray tends to spend more time off the car than on. Over the years I have got more adapt at getting it off and on - the most important bit is knowing the minimum number of bolts you need to put back in for it not to fall off :) That and the foot, knee, elbow tripoddy balancing act.

My biggest problem is the A Bar bottom mounts are "secured" by the outside bolts for the undertray front. Trying to align the hole, A Bar Mount and Tray so the bolts go through is a battle I have long since given up on. I do not put those bolts in any longer. Which means I use the 2 bolts more central, which means the valance/bumper fouls the bolt for a socket and I have to use a spanner. A spanner that can only turn 1/6 or a turn each turn.

Ggggrrrrrr - or more colourful words!

But we love them really!

Anyways up. Now you've spent your £30, or what ever they are in the UK, for the Haynes.... A really useful download is the Rave workshop manual....

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rave-disk-maintenance-manual.260227/
 
Got the manual online for about £8.

I am relieved to note that the oil filter, though rustier than it's possible to be in one year since last service, is an after market one, and so I can surmise that it has been changed at least once since it's last Land Rover dealer service back in 2007!

Oil was filthy too, given that it's only done 8,000 miles or so since the last "service". I might be having words with that particular establishment, though I really can't prove they didn't do the job properly.

I can see that the access is much easier on a full height ramp, as the plastic bit is supported by four grub screws and two rear retaining bolts which once removed allow it to flap down. I suppose this is how the pro's do it, but when you only have 9" car ramps to work with, the whole damned thing had to come off.

Once I have modified the under tray to make access easier (actually might just buy a nicer one, this one is cracked and bent where previous folks have buggered about), I will be changing the oil and filter every 6000 miles. Fingers crossed that no excessive wear has occurred. The car has only done 69k, and in the two years I've had it has been fairly trouble free. Coil pack failed last years, but that was a quick (and remarkably cheap) fix. And the common faults with window winder mechanisms have appeared, so both front and rear offside windows need fixing, as does the sunroof!

Now to figure out how to stop the lower front bumper flapping while the guard isn't fitted,
 
OK.

Find me a Defender in the same condition, for the £1500 this Freelander cost me, and I'll be there like a shot!
 
My undertray tends to spend more time off the car than on. Over the years I have got more adapt at getting it off and on - the most important bit is knowing the minimum number of bolts you need to put back in for it not to fall off :) That and the foot, knee, elbow tripoddy balancing act.

My biggest problem is the A Bar bottom mounts are "secured" by the outside bolts for the undertray front. Trying to align the hole, A Bar Mount and Tray so the bolts go through is a battle I have long since given up on. I do not put those bolts in any longer. Which means I use the 2 bolts more central, which means the valance/bumper fouls the bolt for a socket and I have to use a spanner. A spanner that can only turn 1/6 or a turn each turn.

Ggggrrrrrr - or more colourful words!

But we love them really!

Anyways up. Now you've spent your £30, or what ever they are in the UK, for the Haynes.... A really useful download is the Rave workshop manual....

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rave-disk-maintenance-manual.260227/

Use a ratchet combination spanner GG. It makes tightening the side rail bolts a really easy and quick operation. ;)
 
Oh, I've not actually managed to get it off yet!
Three bolts ceased so squirted a load of WD40 around and went inside for beer.
I will have another go in the morning. Judging by the one bolt that was sheared by a previous attempt (not me) and one the immediately sheared when I "undid" it I'm going to have fun and games!

I've previous experience of removing sheared studs, so not too worried... yet!

It is a really rediculous design isn't it?
Are you using multi sided sockets or 6 sided? If multi sided then dump them in a corner you never visit and buy yourself a decent hex socket set. I used to wonder why I had trouble with bolts rounding off all the time then realised my Stanley socket set was a useless pile of poo. :confused:
If on a budget these are great.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XMS-Bahco...338805&hash=item1c93b5e7f2:g:J6sAAOSwoF1Z00j8
If
 
I will have the joy of this when I try to sort out my air con compressor ............ next year me thinks:D
 

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