Jerseyp38

Active Member
In a far away part of the universe (Jersey), was a sad and lonely manual DT P38............

Anyway years ago the car was playing up and Wammers suggested the culprit was the quantity servo and not realising what and where that was I didn't change the pump straight away but eventually the penny dropped and I changed the FIP for a second hand one. That was quite a learning curve...... Running lovely but then drove to Norway and it decided to leak (a lot) but got me home......

Then with the help of all the good people on here I changed the seals and taped it with a block of wood and a hammer until we had tick over and power.

Then some months later I started to have problems similiar to the quantity servo problem again. So I purchased a second hand unit from a breaker which was clean and reportedly rebuilt. This was a nightmare. I did not fit it straight away but 6 months later and OMG what a hassle. Would start but not run in the end it made a bang and stopped working (see the attached picture) and when disassembled found to be full of bits of metal. Changed back to the previous FIP and all good just the lose of power when lifting foot from throttle.

So I saw a rebuilt pump on fleebay from Germany (surly they know what they are doing?). So after it being in the garage for three months I finally fitted it working over three evening last week. Bleed all ok and feeling pleased but I cannot pretend; it is not running right. Now have a nanocom and showed 'fuel flow valve out of range', invald fault, major fault, logged. Which I cleared and just been for a short drive but no fault logged. Starts very well hot or cold, think I have good timing showed 0.90mm after several revolutions, previous pump was on 0.85mm before I took it off, which was what stopped me getting an expensive pump as assumed the engine was getting too tired as it was a little slow starting.

It revs and pulls well but taking foot off throttle takes a few moments to come back to idle and juddery when trying to maintain a speed. I have put a video on youtube:


Any suggestions? I guess I had better find the place Wammers used to recommend just feel crazy spending lots on an engine with 178k miles? Been crazy not doing it? Will try and return the pump I have bought but not expecting much luck.........

Having had one pump explode I did pop test the injectors and had even bought some nozzles but they all sprayed nicely at about 140psi.

Sorry for the long story, thanks in advance.....
 

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In a far away part of the universe (Jersey), was a sad and lonely manual DT P38............

Anyway years ago the car was playing up and Wammers suggested the culprit was the quantity servo and not realising what and where that was I didn't change the pump straight away but eventually the penny dropped and I changed the FIP for a second hand one. That was quite a learning curve...... Running lovely but then drove to Norway and it decided to leak (a lot) but got me home......

Then with the help of all the good people on here I changed the seals and taped it with a block of wood and a hammer until we had tick over and power.

Then some months later I started to have problems similiar to the quantity servo problem again. So I purchased a second hand unit from a breaker which was clean and reportedly rebuilt. This was a nightmare. I did not fit it straight away but 6 months later and OMG what a hassle. Would start but not run in the end it made a bang and stopped working (see the attached picture) and when disassembled found to be full of bits of metal. Changed back to the previous FIP and all good just the lose of power when lifting foot from throttle.

So I saw a rebuilt pump on fleebay from Germany (surly they know what they are doing?). So after it being in the garage for three months I finally fitted it working over three evening last week. Bleed all ok and feeling pleased but I cannot pretend; it is not running right. Now have a nanocom and showed 'fuel flow valve out of range', invald fault, major fault, logged. Which I cleared and just been for a short drive but no fault logged. Starts very well hot or cold, think I have good timing showed 0.90mm after several revolutions, previous pump was on 0.85mm before I took it off, which was what stopped me getting an expensive pump as assumed the engine was getting too tired as it was a little slow starting.

It revs and pulls well but taking foot off throttle takes a few moments to come back to idle and juddery when trying to maintain a speed. I have put a video on youtube:


Any suggestions? I guess I had better find the place Wammers used to recommend just feel crazy spending lots on an engine with 178k miles? Been crazy not doing it? Will try and return the pump I have bought but not expecting much luck.........

Having had one pump explode I did pop test the injectors and had even bought some nozzles but they all sprayed nicely at about 140psi.

Sorry for the long story, thanks in advance.....

First step is to check the modulation with the engine hot and report the temperature and modulation figures.
Not yet met anyone that can get the modulation spot on with a DTI, I know I can't but I do have a method that will get it spot on with the aid of Nanocom.
 
In a far away part of the universe (Jersey), was a sad and lonely manual DT P38............

Anyway years ago the car was playing up and Wammers suggested the culprit was the quantity servo and not realising what and where that was I didn't change the pump straight away but eventually the penny dropped and I changed the FIP for a second hand one. That was quite a learning curve...... Running lovely but then drove to Norway and it decided to leak (a lot) but got me home......

Then with the help of all the good people on here I changed the seals and taped it with a block of wood and a hammer until we had tick over and power.

Then some months later I started to have problems similiar to the quantity servo problem again. So I purchased a second hand unit from a breaker which was clean and reportedly rebuilt. This was a nightmare. I did not fit it straight away but 6 months later and OMG what a hassle. Would start but not run in the end it made a bang and stopped working (see the attached picture) and when disassembled found to be full of bits of metal. Changed back to the previous FIP and all good just the lose of power when lifting foot from throttle.

So I saw a rebuilt pump on fleebay from Germany (surly they know what they are doing?). So after it being in the garage for three months I finally fitted it working over three evening last week. Bleed all ok and feeling pleased but I cannot pretend; it is not running right. Now have a nanocom and showed 'fuel flow valve out of range', invald fault, major fault, logged. Which I cleared and just been for a short drive but no fault logged. Starts very well hot or cold, think I have good timing showed 0.90mm after several revolutions, previous pump was on 0.85mm before I took it off, which was what stopped me getting an expensive pump as assumed the engine was getting too tired as it was a little slow starting.

It revs and pulls well but taking foot off throttle takes a few moments to come back to idle and juddery when trying to maintain a speed. I have put a video on youtube:


Any suggestions? I guess I had better find the place Wammers used to recommend just feel crazy spending lots on an engine with 178k miles? Been crazy not doing it? Will try and return the pump I have bought but not expecting much luck.........

Having had one pump explode I did pop test the injectors and had even bought some nozzles but they all sprayed nicely at about 140psi.

Sorry for the long story, thanks in advance.....

Was it Diesel Jones in Manchester that Tony recommended?.
 
Thanks Datatek, you are taking about stuff out of my experience, but I did take a couple of pictures of the nanocom screen. Not sure if they are what you are mentioning? Any suggested websites to read up on it? Or do you have a guide for your technique? Thanks Mark
 

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Thanks datatek, you are taking about stuff out of my experience, but I did take a couple of pictures of the nanocom screen. Not sure if they are what you are mentioning. Any suggested websites to read up on it? Or do you have a guide for your technique? Thanks Mark
Our modulation is way out should be 50% with the engine hot. Keith posted a table with modulation and engine temperature.
 
Was it Diesel Jones in Manchester that Tony recommended?.

Yes, Diesel Jones down Nuttall Street. You have to exchange your old one. By the time you've mucked about with second hand ones off the Bay you'd have saved a lot of time and money by doing it in the first place!
 
Our modulation is way out should be 50% with the engine hot. Keith posted a table with modulation and engine temperature.
Wow, that modulation is way out, surprised it runs. You have not shown the Nanocom screen with engine temperature, but with the engine at 95C, modulation should be 50%. I have an easy way of adjusting the FIP to get the modulation right, I can email you details if you PM me with an email address.
 

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