Just been down to LLR in Chalton to have a nose. Was chatting to one of the older fellas on the desk, said he's been working with river engine for years. He said if you remove the ball bearing from the end of the little pipe that leads into the inlet manifold it makes a huge difference and a he said, solves a lot of problems
 
Adam Gorsuch said:
Just been down to LLR in Chalton to have a nose. Was chatting to one of the older fellas on the desk, said he's been working with river engine for years. He said if you remove the ball bearing from the end of the little pipe that leads into the inlet manifold it makes a huge difference and a he said, solves a lot of problems
Click to expand...
That's the jiggle valve your talking about. Some peeps say take it out and cooling is better, others say don't cause it's worse. I say don't go looking for trouble, it'll find you soon enough, if it ain't broke don't fix it. I also say a lot of rubbish so don't listen to me. o_O
 
Question, gear box oil, the texaco stuff recommended in the Haynes book of lies only comes in a 20 litre drum as far as I can see. Anyone recommended something a bit more realistic
 
Adam Gorsuch said:
Question, gear box oil, the texaco stuff recommended in the Haynes book of lies only comes in a 20 litre drum as far as I can see. Anyone recommended something a bit more realistic
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I don't know much about freelanders, but I always buy all my oil in drums. Good stuff at a good price, it doesn't go off. Oils are cheap at the moment, due to low crude price, keep the rest in the shed for next year, the oil may be much more expensive then! ;)
 
So doubt I will need 10 changes worth and I don't have that sort of money atm.
Anyone know a stockist? Also I'm reading online it's the exact same product as the Honda stuff
 
I tend to avoid Castrol like the plague after their "correct" spec oils nearly cocked up the diff on my RX8.

Triple checked the specification too, then triple checked after the limited slipper started locking up on wet roundabouts and kept spinning me out at low speeds. Everyone else reporting the same issues with Castrol trashing the rx8 drive train. Swapped over to redline oils and everything went quiet again.
 
Id like pick up two litres of the actual stuff but at the moment that's the last of my problems. I love a challenge but now finding more and more issues.
Worst of all the smell of boiled coolant coming from the motor. Don't seem to be loosing anything but I get whiff every so often. Gonna change the hoses incase of a pin hole. Think I'm just gonna start getting parts stored up for a HG change. I have got a leak on the rocker cover so new gasket ordered. The previous owner has used a silicone substance.
The back window is not dropping when I open it still and I don't know where to start with sorting that. If I push it down when I **** it it rises into place.
Now I have a knocking nose coming from the front near side when I go over bumps. Ahhhh
 
Did your new water pump have the evaporation chamber? It's the bottom bolt sticking out with a hole on the top, it was designed to catch drips and evaporate them before peeps saw a drip and thought there was a problem. Stupid idea for the customer but saved them having to repair cars under warranty.
Did you use instant gasket to hold the water pump seal in its channel? If not it's very easy for it to slip out when fitting.
Are you getting damp in the passenger foot well, If so check heater matrix.
Re knocking noise, I have one too and have the new tie rod ends on my desk, just waiting for inspiration to fit them.
Re the window, lots on here about them, sounds like a fault in the handle switch but wouldn't be surprised if a previous owner disconnected something there.
 
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No idea about the waterline, didn't use instant gasket but I'm pretty sure it's fitted correct as I double checked. There is no damp in the foot well as far as I can see or noticed. I've just order track rod ends as they are worn gonna order get the ball joints checked too and if so get them fitted too. They have defiantly disconnected the sun roof as it doesn't open, I know opening would be tempting fate though as it possibly would never shut again or begin leaking
 
These cars seem to looooove eating the near side track rod end.

I've gotta fit new ones to mine as I've eliminated everything else that could bang around on that corner, so now down to the track rod ends as the last thing left.

Had it in the air at the weekend because of the MOT and couldn't feel any free play in the ball joint, but it's one of these things that won't show as loose unless the suspension is compressed.
 
I had the same with my Alfa, banging and clunking over bumps. At least with the freelander you can easily get replacement bushes and the parts are very reasonably priced. On the Alfa the work was always a pig and you had to buy complete wishbones to change bushes.
 
The freelander gives with one hand and takes away with the other. Can cover leak was gonna be fixed today with a new gasket. Instead I find that the front most left screw has been over tightened and it's cracked the hole meaning which then snapped off. And the far right centre screw snapped on coming out. Kill me now
 
Close to crying! Realistically gonna need to pick up a new head. Well a second hand one. Then there's all the grief of getting it machined. At least it will now be done I suppose. Better sell my soul on ebay
 
Adam Gorsuch said:
Ok, are the auto can belt tensioner and manual tensioner heads different?
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Don't quote me on it but I think the securing bolt is a different size. Don't think it would matter though so long as you have the correct tensioner and belt (they're a different length). Phone around your local scrappies, should be loads out there but you don't want one off a 135hp engine or a VVC. Not only will it have different connections and loom they have less torque lower down.
 
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