Tirran
Well-Known Member
Thought about it, but no welder. So checking to see what is available first.
Tirran
Well-Known Member
Off to get some plate, thanks
Iirc the cheap tdi timing kits have a large round plate for holding the inj pump pulley in place whilst removing the pump, these also fit the crank damper.
Also good for pullng the cambelt gear off of the crank as well, but do need some extra bolts for that job.
Also good for pullng the cambelt gear off of the crank as well, but do need some extra bolts for that job.
Think this is the same as mine?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Engine-T...673358?hash=item4214ac3bce:g:yLQAAOSwktpebKCc
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Engine-T...673358?hash=item4214ac3bce:g:yLQAAOSwktpebKCc
Tirran
Well-Known Member
It is, never thought about it as it is only the flywheel stop and FIP shaft I’ve used.
I hope it has the strength to pull off the Damper. Thanks.
I spent an age levering/hammering a 200 damper, then thought oh yeh that may work, the bloody thing just slid off with no issues!
Tirran
Well-Known Member
Exactly what has happened tonight, used the timing kit items and off she came no problem, right tools and the jobs much easier.
The problem now is that the cam toothed wheel has a timing dot, the FIP wheel has two red dots of paint with no timing dot. My thinking is that the cam timing dot aligned with the arrow on the timing case , plus the engine at no1 tdc the locking pin should go into the FIP wheel. I know the crank rotates twice to move the cam and FIP into position. Then I can remove and replace the timing belt.
is my thinking sound?
Fip use one of the timing pins, you can see the hole through the pulley itself, and the hole is at the top.
The dots will just be a mech in the past doing it his way, or doubling up to make sure.
Basically crank slot at 12 oclock, insert timing pin into the flywheel housing and engage it into the flywheel slot, line up cam marks, pin in fip pulley, (pulley bolts loosened) fit belt, tension belt, tighetn fip pulley bolts, remove pinsm rotate engine by hand a couple of times, and make sure all the pins still fit, job done.
The dots will just be a mech in the past doing it his way, or doubling up to make sure.
Basically crank slot at 12 oclock, insert timing pin into the flywheel housing and engage it into the flywheel slot, line up cam marks, pin in fip pulley, (pulley bolts loosened) fit belt, tension belt, tighetn fip pulley bolts, remove pinsm rotate engine by hand a couple of times, and make sure all the pins still fit, job done.
Tirran
Well-Known Member
Thanks, just as I was intending, great thing about this forum is the ability to check your thinking.
Plenty of decent vids on youtube.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
Picture worth a 100 words
Did mine with a locking pin in flywheel , FIP tool sliding fit in hole
Crank slot lined up with arrow
Cam wheel dimple lined up with casting
NB if you invert your engine it will look like pic above
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Tirran
Well-Known Member
That is the cleanest engine I’ve ever seen, love it.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
Thanks that was at the end of a rebuild , it was really clean inside , it’s in my Series 3 now and running clean too no probs on any of the cogs getting them off
Tirran
Well-Known Member
That’s what I intended to do with mine, but decided to get it together first then tackle the engine if I have any issues.
Hw did you approach this to get to this condition?
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/200tdi-first-start-on-the-ground-following-refurb.350011/
If you want to test it first there’s this one before I put it in.
For the rebuild it didn’t start off as one but got carried away lol
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/200-tdi-engine-checking-refurb.346897/
If you want to test it first there’s this one before I put it in.
For the rebuild it didn’t start off as one but got carried away lol
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/200-tdi-engine-checking-refurb.346897/
