There is a locking tang that has to be held back before it will twist open.
Yes i know he said he had released that and wanted to know which way to turn it.
There is a locking tang that has to be held back before it will twist open.
I got my bag, and a big thanks for sorting all that range Rover stuff out for me.... but it was cold!!!!@jamesmartin: just thinking aloud here and looking for a sense check ...
If I damaged the rear seal on the gearbox where the transfer box engages (putting the transfer box back in), would that leak into the transfer box raising the fluid level so that it then started leaking past the rear seal on the transfer box and contaminate the handbrake drum?
unless someone sealed the 2 boxes together with silicone sealant , it should show at the bottom of the joint between the 2,theres a notch to allow the oil to run down if seal does leak@jamesmartin: just thinking aloud here and looking for a sense check ...
If I damaged the rear seal on the gearbox where the transfer box engages (putting the transfer box back in), would that leak into the transfer box raising the fluid level so that it then started leaking past the rear seal on the transfer box and contaminate the handbrake drum?
unless someone sealed the 2 boxes together with silicone sealant , it should show at the bottom of the joint between the 2,theres a notch to allow the oil to run down if seal does leak
I got my bag, and a big thanks for sorting all that range Rover stuff out for me.... but it was cold!!!!
I took it for the MOT (pass) and he told me the same, going to do it on Wednesday, apparently that's now a fail, dropping oil (environment)Thanks, James. I'll check that. No sealant was used.
In my head I am much more willing to bet that I knocked the seal trying to manhandle the t-box back into place at an angle lying on my back than Ashcrofts are to buggered a brand new seal with the box nicely lined up on a bench in front of them. Not impossible but I remember it being awkward getting it back in as the gearbox was on the **** and I had the t-box balanced on the end of a trolley-jack.
Believe me, it was colder lying on my back on the floor! Glad you're sorted though. I think you took the spare seal with you so I just cleaned mine up and reassembled. The manual is so much quicker to work on without that damn rubber thing in the way.
There was a little widdle of oil left on my garage floor after you left. That rocker must be leaking reasonably well to leave a mark that quick. I'd say that job is becoming more urgent.
I took it for the MOT (pass) and he told me the same, going to do it on Wednesday, apparently that's now a fail, dropping oil (environment)
He said the seal is fine not leaking... resultReminds me. I'll drop some sawdust on it when I get home and then set fire to it later on.
That is true here, I spray the underside with degreaser and power wash the underside before the P38's go for an MOT. It's my personal MOT a week on Tuesday for my French driving licence, hope I passI took it for the MOT (pass) and he told me the same, going to do it on Wednesday, apparently that's now a fail, dropping oil (environment)
unless someone sealed the 2 boxes together with silicone sealant , it should show at the bottom of the joint between the 2,theres a notch to allow the oil to run down if seal does leak
yes it isIs that the same on the manual box? Nothing visible between the boxes. Also, as MrGorsky pointed out, there's an input seal on the transfer box as well so 2 seals would have to be knackered, 1 fitted by the masters (Ashcrofts).
Opened the filler plug yesterday. Nothing cam out. Dipped a finger in and the fluid was the same strange brownish colour, not pink like new ATF so dropped the lot. In the pan it looked like ATF mixed with a brown metallic colour. It it had been an autobox I would have said it was cooked. Flushed through and replaced with new ATF. I checked the main box and the fluid there looked like new (which it would as it was replaced in the summer).
Today I rang Ashcrofts and asked if they put any kind of protective oil on the chain and parts before shipping. Apparently not. I couldn't speak to anyone technical directly but they've suggested the ATF has overheated and to check for a blocked breather. Guessing the logic is a blocked breather might prevent expansion and force fluid past the seal?
I replaced the crush washers on the breathers when I refitted the box. Remember doing it. I cannot remember where the breather is routed but I think it comes out in the engine bay on the bulkhead? Guess I Just disconnect and then blow down it? But then I need someone the other end to feel the breeze!
So i may have been on the money with post 14