britishwardog

Active Member

• Sep 28, 2014

• #1

Hi guys, I've just found out from the chap who took my hippo for its MOT that although worthy of an MOT pass my handbrake cables need replacing, my skills on the spanners are little more than complete novice so is this a job best left for a mechanic or is it a simple job to do?

 

Irishrover

Well-Known Member

• Sep 28, 2014

• #2

:behindsofa:
Did mine last year. Biggest problem I had was rusted in bolts. Despite soaking them with Plus Gas (Forget WD40-it's useless for freeing rusted bolts) overnight and they still wouldn't shift
Finished up having to drill them out and use nuts & bolts to secure the cable clamps to the rear subframe (One each side)-from memory, I used M8 X 30mm long stainless hex. setpins, nuts & washers. Don't forget to grease the cables before you fit it and also have a new set of brake shoes handy if you are unsure of the condition of the existing ones.
Hopefully you may be lucky but my advice is "Be Prepared" before you start the job.
If everything goes to plan, it's quite straightforward .

 

thequeenscheese

Well-Known Member

• Sep 28, 2014

• #3

Shoes are decent tbh, it is a job I would and can tackle but where I am (live in a flat) I'm scuppered for room and lack of tools so may as well have carted back to nephews garage as I get decent reductions there spose I may as well let me fit x2 new ones now lol, probably a blessing in disguise that it's happened before I'd had all the rear refitted no doubt it would have destroyed all the good work if it failed after..

 

fredi250

Well-Known Member

• Sep 28, 2014

• #4

Simple job as the rover says rusted nuts (no pun) main problem I use a makita impact gun but do all ways plus gas them anyway

 

britishwardog

Active Member

• Sep 28, 2014

• #5

Thanks guys

 

Irishrover

Well-Known Member

• Sep 28, 2014

• #6

fredi250 said:

Simple job as the rover says rusted nuts (no pun) main problem I use a makita impact gun but do all ways plus gas them anyway

Click to expand...

I tried the impact driver but the heads of the bolts were badly worn due to the rust and they would not shift. Tried my Irwin bolt remover and it sheared one head off. Rather than p**s about, it was quicker to drill the bolts out and fit stainless nuts & bolts instead.

 

L

Litch

Well-Known Member

• Sep 28, 2014

• #7

Did my wife's 2006 TD4 a few weeks ago and it was no problem whatsoever. All bolts came out ok, I just made sure that I used plenty of copperslip on reassembly.
The handbrake had been playing up for a while and I was a little suspect about it being the cables at fault but with the new cables fitted the difference was immediate and noticeable.

Used Pagid cables, apparently there are some really nasty cheap ones out there without the nylon / teflon coating on the inner (which can increase drag) but the Pagid ones are OE spec and not at all expensive.

You will need a set of ramps to give sufficient access, when doing this type of job I drive the front wheels onto ramps and lift the rear and support on axle-stands. Plenty of room then for my bulk.

 

britishwardog

Active Member

• Sep 28, 2014

• #8

Excellent info, cheers!