I'm in the process of using it on the rebuild of my 90. So far I've used half the can and that has done:
chassis x 2 coats
underside of tub x 2
underside of seatbox x 2

I am yet to see how it holds up to the weather as the 90 is not finished yet but it seems like good stuff. It doesn't chip like paint but it can be scratched if you drag sharp metal over it (i did this trying to fit the rear tub) When you first apply it, it takes about a day to be able to handle properly and is fully done after a couple of days.

I liked the idea of brushing it on (unlike normal waxoyl) so that unlike spraying, no masking is needed and my suspension parts remain looking new. It's also a much cleaner job, last time I used waxoyl on a chassis I ended up looking like a fresian cow! It applies very easily with a brush and almost has the consistency of hair gel...you can turn the can upside down and it won't come out!

Let us know how you get on.
 

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Thanks for that mate. Looks pretty good for the money. My chassis is pretty bare so want to get something on there to protect it a bit, and really do not fancy spraying and I have not got the equipment to do it anyway.
 
Just done the whole of the underside and some inner panels of my disco with that stuff. I used 3x 2.5l tins of it.. Good stuff imo..
 
good stuff done the chassis on my 90, tend to use that on out side bits and waxoyl on inside bits
 
its damn good stuff but even if its gone off it breaks down and re- liquifies on contact with fuel either petrol or derv but this flaw can be used to your advantage with a rag soaked in diesel it can be wiped away from the chassis for welding and it doesnt burn anywhere near as vicious as waxoyl so can be put out with a damp sponge or a rub with the welding gloves
 
I've done two thirds of my chassis with it , waiting for some warm weather to finish . Used it before with good longevity and protection.
 
I use it for protecting welded patches etc. But I use schutz for a full coating.

Both are very good stuff, but very messy. So prepare to wear some old ****ty clothes if you'll be doing it on the floor, you'll get covered, and it's a pain to wash off.
 
Thanks all. Will be grabbing a few tins today and having a go when the weather decides to cheer up a bit. Overalls, goggles and gloves at the ready!!!
 
johnny curt 1 said:
its damn good stuff but even if its gone off it breaks down and re- liquifies on contact with fuel either petrol or derv gloves
Click to expand...

It does the same with WD 40, i'm yet to drive the 90 as the build is incomplete but would oil leaks from engine etc cause it to do the same?
 
Boris113 said:
It does the same with WD 40, i'm yet to drive the 90 as the build is incomplete but would oil leaks from engine etc cause it to do the same?
Click to expand...

yeah but engine oil is far thicker and less spirited than petrol and diesel so the engine pil will just blend into it stay on the chassis and add to its properties

the hammerite underseal is pretty much similar to the stuff i used to chemicaly tank basements like a synthetic oil type stuff thats like spoonable paint thick as frigg :cool::cool:

me preferred method of protecting patchwork is once the vehicle has been seen to be repaired by the mot tester ill coat the patch with the tetroseal stuff let that go off for 20 mins then the hammerite stuff on top of that then a quick blow over with the hammerite aerosol underseal just to make sure mr tinworm hasnt got a chance in hell of getting to the tasty chassis metal
 
I've used it for years on various vehicles and have no complaints. The only issue is where people paint on their car and believe it's a paint and forget product.

As others have said, it does scrape off, and destabilised by most solvents so it is always worthwhile checking that the coating is still in place every few months. It will, over a number of years, harden, and that's when you need to get out the scraper, clean it off and re-apply. Otherwise water will get in behind cracks and start to rust the base metal.
 
For anyone interested if you register your credit, debit card with Quidco you get 4.5% cash back on your purchases at halfords with that card. Makes the underseal or anything else a little cheaper.
 
If you go in and tell them your in the trade of restoring cars you can get a trade card ;)

I find that if I use a 2" dog leg brush its great as it can get in loads of places and you dont get as covered.
 
Well I managed to get the under arches and quite a lot of the Chassis cleaned down and painted with this stuff the other day, and I am very impressed. Goes on very easy with hardly any splashing and goes a long way for what you get in the tin. Hardly used any really and I have painted a fair bit.
Comes highly recommended from me for anyone wanting some cheap chassis protection or even just to make your under arches and chassis look good.
 
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