Bunker · Jun 12, 2012

Hi Folks. Im not entirely new to spanners but am new to Land Rovers. My truck failed the MOT on a rear hub seal so Im getting on with the learning.

I found that that the rear half shaft seems to be fudged at the end, or is it a cap of some description? Only way to get the flange off was to remove the whole shaft..is that ok or does it all need replacing?

Also, see the surface for the oil seal, looks a bit rough - does all that need changing too?

Really appreciate your help in advance.

Bunker

discowayne · Jun 12, 2012

thats ok pal on discoverys and rangerover classics shafts come out in thos way

Bunker · Jun 12, 2012

Phew! Thanks for that, its a defender axle tho..

Here is a close up of the oil seal surface

Retroanaconda · Jun 12, 2012

Someone's welded the half-shaft to the flange. Common bodge to fix play between shaft and flange. Not necessarily an issue as long as it doesn't leak out the end (ie. the weld is not porous).

The seal land looks rough, but I've seen worse ones seal OK. It helps if the inner stub axle/axle case seal is in good nick (that runs on the machined land part-way along the shaft in your first pic) as this prevents oil getting into the hub. The hub seals will have an easier job holding back grease than grease mixed with oil.

Of course some people deliberately remove this inner seal to allow oil into the hubs in order to prolong wheel bearing life. This is fine so long as your hub seals and their lands are in good nick. I wouldn't risk it in your case.

Bunker · Jun 12, 2012

Ah, I cant see any other seals so perhaps removed as you say. In which case, is it a new sub axle?

jamesmartin · Jun 13, 2012

stub axle may polish up but cant see picture too cleary ,but you will need new half shaft,drivemember ,circlip ,check bearings as play may have made seal worse ,depending on age and type of axle some ues outer seal to keep oil from wheel bearings which would need replacing too ,as in theory oil shouldnt reach bearings and so out of inner hub seal

Bunker · Jun 13, 2012

Thanks for your replies.
Tricky now, one says its welded up and thats ok, another says will need replacing..there will be quite a cost involved in replacing all that (not huge but significant) - anyone else reckon it needs replacing?

I want to do the right thing, but no point buying all that if unnecessary..

Robbo5833 · Jun 13, 2012

You could probably pick up a complete, non welded axle for £100...I've never paid more than that for one

jamesmartin · Jun 13, 2012

check prices ,second hand parts in good nick are as good as any ,welding to get by for a time is one thing ,long term use is another

Bunker · Jun 24, 2012

OK I have decided to change the shafts as not happy about the welded up ends, found this on ebay:
Sounds like a good buy with the new callipers and discs. Will I need a different prop? If so are they difficult to fit?

Im guessing the axle is bolt on bolt off?

Thanks

Here we have a Salisbury rear axle from a coil-sprung Land Rover. There are a few Land Rover Salisbury axles with drum brakes around, but this is one of the few I've seen with disks. The diff ratio is 3.54 as per standard Range Rover and Defenders. It has recently been fitted with new OEM disks and new OEM brake calipers. There are no known faults and if you are looking for the legendary indestructable rear axle, then this is it. I'm selling it on behalf of a mate who trials regularly. The Salisbury axle hangs down just a tad lower than the standard axle and there have been a couple of occasions when he got caught out in deep ruts when others with standard axles just got through. Being really competitive, he's reluctantly decided to part with this axle - just to save a few points in competitions.

The sSalisbury is heavier than a standard axle. I have an engine crane at this end, so getting it on to a trailer is straightforward for collection. If you want to arrange for a carrier, then you will have to make all the arrangements and cover the costs. I can put it on to a pallet for collection if necessary.

jai_landrover · Jun 24, 2012

Ah from Houghton regis aye! Did you get it for 100?? I was looking at it but it was too much money for my tightness.

Bunker what is your motor a 110 or a 90??

If its a 110 its should be a straight swap. if its a 90 its a bit more involved as they were never fitted with salisbury axles I have fitted a salisbury but you need to shorten your rear propshaft and mess around with spring plates etc

Bunker · Jun 25, 2012

No, went for £160. Mine is shortened to 88 to fit under my S3 tub so as you say, probably a whole world of mucking about! I think Ill just stick to looking for some half shafts and flanges etc
cheers

Bunker · Jun 26, 2012

OK so a new stub axle, no prob, whipped the old one off and found it to be the same pattern as the FTC3188, question is, whats the cut out for on the flange, doenst appear to fit anything?

thanks

jamesmartin · Jun 26, 2012

abs sensor if abs is fitted to vehicle

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