No ACE warning lights are showing; don't know anyone with a nanocom- would that identify any faults with the ACE? To be honest with you I'm thinking of taking it into the garage because it is unsafe on the road in its current condition. Just wondering if there were any obvious checks I could do before doing so.

Yes, a Nanocom or similar could check for faults recorded within the ECU that controls the ACE system.
Before you leave the car with a garage, make sure they have the ability to interrogate the vehicles ecu's.
Ref checks you can do, you could check for any hydraulic leakage from the ACE rams (front & rear), ACE pump, pipe & hoses. Although, leakage should be detected as a fault by the pressure sensors I think.
 
Yes, a Nanocom or similar could check for faults recorded within the ECU that controls the ACE system.
Before you leave the car with a garage, make sure they have the ability to interrogate the vehicles ecu's.
Ref checks you can do, you could check for any hydraulic leakage from the ACE rams (front & rear), ACE pump, pipe & hoses. Although, leakage should be detected as a fault by the pressure sensors I think.

ACE failures are more like riding a boat than swaying, just hit reset and then OK.

Mine was fixed by upping the pump hoses internal diameter after my ACE rebuild
 
Hi,

Tyre pressures are all good MJI.

Chris - I'll check the link bar on the steering box. Thanks
I think @MJI was asking you for the actual tyre pressure readings. Somebody can say that their pressures are OK while they've been set to 22 psi all round.
A good starting point for a D2 is given in the owner's handbook; front - 30psi, rear - 38psi.
 
ACE failures are more like riding a boat than swaying, just hit reset and then OK.
Unfortunately, there are failure modes which cause the ACE ARBs not to be locked at all - so effectively like a vehicle with no ARBs - eg if the solenoids fail open or the ECU thinks they need to be open when they shouldn't be.
Can you imagine how the car might feel if you were cornering even slightly at speed & suddenly the solenoids opened & the effect of the ARB disappeared.
Some of those failure modes were quite common when the D2 was very new (& perhaps the ECU software fail safes were still being developed). There were allegedly rolled vehicles as a result.
 
Unfortunately, there are failure modes which cause the ACE ARBs not to be locked at all - so effectively like a vehicle with no ARBs - eg if the solenoids fail open or the ECU thinks they need to be open when they shouldn't be.
Can you imagine how the car might feel if you were cornering even slightly at speed & suddenly the solenoids opened & the effect of the ARB disappeared.
Some of those failure modes were quite common when the D2 was very new (& perhaps the ECU software fail safes were still being developed). There were allegedly rolled vehicles as a result.

I have had it, it does not cause swaying.

I hit failure mode as 1/4" BSP hose does not flow enough with enthusiatic cornering. 3/8" hose cured it.

My car has hydraulic hoses to replace fractured and rusty pipes.
 
My old D2 suffered with similar symptoms to this, I spent many hundreds trying to sort it on things like re bushing all the chassis, watts linkage , new steering box and steering shaft, replaced steering knukles and all wheel bearings, fitted new tyres, had tracking done, new springs and shocks new air bags on rear, new steering damper, new bolts in trailing arms, I changed virtually everything but the car was still scary, and even worse when towing, In the end I traded it against a D3,
incidentally mine felt better on rear springs but still wasnt nice
 
My old D2 suffered with similar symptoms to this, I spent many hundreds trying to sort it on things like re bushing all the chassis, watts linkage , new steering box and steering shaft, replaced steering knukles and all wheel bearings, fitted new tyres, had tracking done, new springs and shocks new air bags on rear, new steering damper, new bolts in trailing arms, I changed virtually everything but the car was still scary, and even worse when towing, In the end I traded it against a D3,
incidentally mine felt better on rear springs but still wasnt nice

Many thanks for the info, sounds like you spent an absolute fortune. Hoping I do not have the same ordeal as you!!! It is a really scary hairy drive though, scared the hell out of me!
 
@MJI is asking what tyre pressures are you running on in pounds per square inch?
Please reply using the number keys on your keyboard

Hi Bryan,

Running on 30psi at the front and 38psi to the rear as recommended in the handbook.

Apologies to @MJI if that is what he meant.

Thanks to all that have given advice so far on this problem- really appreciate the wealth of knowledge from fellow members.

Cheers

James
 

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