Discodevon

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone, just curious if many of you use the Gwen Lewis mud shields on here, they look pretty good at containing all the water and mud spray, do they look out of place when you see them on?
 
Hello everyone, just curious if many of you use the Gwen Lewis mud shields on here, they look pretty good at containing all the water and mud spray, do they look out of place when you see them on?


I made my own for the front and bought ones for the back. The exhaust side let’s all the shit through where the mount is :(
 
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l fitted rear ones to my 110 and they stop mid being sprayed into the crossmember and also the chassis at the front of the rear wheel arch.

l also ordered front ones but fitting them involved cutting the wheel arch liner so l never bothered with them.
 
i made my own as well. Used old mud flaps on the front, attached between inner wing and footwell, and zip tied the bottom to the outrigger. This has done well protecting the footwells.

For the rear i bought a 2mm HDPE plastic sheet, one part covers the crossmember, the other part covers the front area.

I'll post some photos if anyone is interested.
 
I also made my own front and rear in the early 90's They have done a great job of protecting footwells, outriggers and rear crossmember. Pics taken last year of my 1990 farm truck. Pic shows flap folded back on the left and foot well which still has paint on it.
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You can see flaps in front of the rear cross member in other pic, they would not be visible if standard flaps were also fitted.
 
Well
yes you can make your own and no doubt save some cash
They are only shaped plastic sheets in the end.
 
Sorry for my really bad punctuation, Gwen Lewis and gwyn Lewis both roll off the tongue in the same manner, lightening you don’t have to cut the front arch out, but you do have to remove the two Phillips head screws and one of the clips that hold the arch on, which gets replaced by the screws, I’m pretty keen to be doing this as I noticed a lot of crap on my chassis
 
Got them F&R on my 90.

Fitted the front ones back in 2013 (when I had my bulkhead galved) and was so impressed that I fitted the rear ones in 2020 (when I was replacing the chassis). The good thing is that you can still get behind them with the hose to wash out the crevices. The OS one looses some effectiveness due to the location of the sedimentor but if you don't have this then it fills the gap completely.
Yes you could make your own but the GL ones come ready to fit with some lovely galvanised tub stays. I have made / modified / adapted many parts over the years but when something is available off the shelf that you can't really improve on I am now a great believer in using it and saving me some work.

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Fully agree with Litch. I fitted them to my rebuild, they are great, come with all fixings etc. You’ll never stop all the spray/crud getting on the chassis but it stops the abrasion effect which is the damaging issue for the high impact areas on the chassis.
 
I was going to get them when I did my chassis swap but didn't bother in the end as I reckoned galv would stand up to the crud and I wash it weekly, but I'd definitely get them if it weren't galvanised. Only thing I did wonder is that if muck gets trapped behind the shields after a while then it's harder to dislodge it than not having anything there as standard and could then rot it out, but then I don't know how close fitting they are. Best thing imo, pressure washer it off weekly!
 
When I made my own as in post above I cut away the rear exhaust bracket on the crossmember and welded a rod from the chassis leg to hold the exhaust
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so the flap has no hole in it.
My flaps are of a flexible rubber and easy to fold away for cleaning. I got it from the local RAF station before it closed, they had rolls of the stuff used to roll out on large aircraft wings for protection from servicemen feet when doing maintenance. Used once then chucked away:rolleyes:
Quality stuff still on Landy many years later.
 
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I made my own recently from some galvanised sheet I had lying around. Made a template, cut the sheet, took out the 2 inner lining screws and pushed new sheet up behind. Drilled through and fixed using existing screws .both sides done in an hour for free.
 
I’m going to get the front ones first for sure next week, I’m in the process of rust proofing my defender and today I used an airline with a long nose duster front to back to remove dirt and debris and got so much mud out of the nooks snd crannies I could of filled a plant pot.. I’m going to put my landy on some ramps and pressure wash it but thought I’d go through underneath with an airline to blow off the worst of the muck first and generally inspect.. I can only find very light surface rust currently so count myself lucky really, them gwyn (Not gwen) mud shields would definitely add some years to your defender by the looks of it
 
Picture, this is a concrete driveway: in four hours and a long nose airline I turned it into a dirt track
 

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I fitted the GL front kit, including new LR mud flaps, as mine had perished and fallen off... been on for a few years now... would highly recommend, especially if you have wider tyres/spacers.

They don't stick out, which was a concern before fitting.

Now running 235's... but had 265's before on 0 offset rims... tried 'Dirt Defenders' - OK until I fitted rock sliders... don't get muddy door handles, or the salt spray/build up on crossmember and footwell ++

Mud flap 01.jpg

Mud flap 02.jpg


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