Stick a thin piece of plastic (milk bottle) between that panel and the cross member tabs.

Yeah the front wing I managed to get a new panel off eBay, £138 new and genuine landrover.. as for the holes, yeah I was thinking of patching somehow.. getting some aluminium filler and maybe back it with glass fibre or anything that's bloody sticky.. I defiantly wanna put galvanised capping and corners (where the lights are mounted) so I figured I could replace the rear panel too...not to expensive by the look of things! Anyway, I've had a meeting with the chaps that are doing the bulk of the mechanical work and we've drawn up a plan and list of parts that'll I'll try and list on here today or tomorrow to see what you guys think. Also, these turned up today

More updates, I've ordered the chassis loom, about £100 from autosparks, BARGAIN! I was expecting £400+

Flossie said:

Also, in my second pic you'll see that long black steel channel? That bolts on top of the chassis under the 2nd row. They rot out too and are difficult to re new with the body in place. There are 4 brackets that bolt to that, they can rot out too!
Basically, all I had left of my tub that was reused was the outer wings and the tops of the wheel boxes.

Click to expand...

Ok so I'm trying to get a quote together from YRM, But I'm not quite sure how to describe the black bar in your photo and the brackets that you can get in HDG, any pointers? Cheers

I can't find those items on the yrm site so maybe they don't sell them.
The long channel runs the width of the body and bolts to the top of the chassis, the 4 brackets bolt to it. The brackets support the 2nd row upstand and are the mounts for the 2nd row seats.
I can't do links or part numbers sorry but @neilly is a part number tart

I heard my name was mentioned in vain.......... @Flossie , I was asleep.......

http://www.allbrit.de/NAV.cfm?PAGE=393139&SPRACHE=EN

Have shufti here , if you find the part number then do a search on gaggle, as chances are it has been superceded by a newer number.

Cheers

Click on chassis fittings.
Cross member and brackets are on there.
@Adam Rose-Alison

On the subject of Bimetallic corrosion, here's the Galvanic series mentioned above:-

Anodic - Least Noble

• Magnesium
• Magnesium Alloys
• Zinc
• Cadmium
• Aluminum
• Mild Steel , Wrought Iron
• Cast Iron, Low Alloy High Strength Steel
• Chrome Iron (active)
• Stainless Steel, 430 Series (active)
• Stainless Steel 302, 303, 321, 347, 410,416, (Active)
• Ni - Resist
• Stainless Steel 316, 317, (Active)
• Aluminum Bronze
• Hastelloy C (active) Inconel 625 (active)
• Titanium (active)
• Lead - Tin Solders
• Lead
• Tin
• Inconel 600 (active)
• Nickel (active)
• Hastelloy B (active)
• Brasses
• Copper
• Manganese Bronze , Tin Bronze (
• Nickel Silver
• Copper - Nickel Alloy 90-10
• Copper - Nickel Alloy 80-20
• Stainless Steel 430
• Nickel, Aluminum, Bronze
• Monel
• Silver Solder
• Nickel (passive)
• 60 Ni- 15 Cr (passive)
• Inconel 600 (passive)
• 80 Ni- 20 Cr (passive)
• Chrome Iron (passive)
• Stainless Steel 302, 303, 304, 321, 347,(PASSIVE)
• Stainless Steel 316, 317,(PASSIVE)
• Incoloy 825nickel - Molybdeum - Chromium
• Iron Alloy (passive)
• Silver
• Titanium (pass.) Hastelloy C (passive)
• Inconel 625(pass.)
• Graphite
• Zirconium
• Gold
• Platinum
• 
  Cathodic Most Noble.

This galvanic series of metals lists common materials in order of their electrical potential relative to a recognized standard. Materials widely separated on this list will rapidly corrode in the presence of electolyte (e.g. Seawater) when in electrical contact, the anodic material suffering rapid material loss. Materials close together on this list will suffer less damage due to corrosion.

Galvanic corrosion is driven by the voltage potential between two electrically connected conductors ( To minimize this form of attack, materials in electrical contact, if required, should be selected so as to minimize their relative potential.

Disco1BFG said:

On the subject of Bimetallic corrosion, here's the Galvanic series mentioned above:-

Anodic - Least Noble

• Magnesium
• Magnesium Alloys
• Zinc
• Cadmium
• Aluminum
• Mild Steel , Wrought Iron
• Cast Iron, Low Alloy High Strength Steel
• Chrome Iron (active)
• Stainless Steel, 430 Series (active)
• Stainless Steel 302, 303, 321, 347, 410,416, (Active)
• Ni - Resist
• Stainless Steel 316, 317, (Active)
• Aluminum Bronze
• Hastelloy C (active) Inconel 625 (active)
• Titanium (active)
• Lead - Tin Solders
• Lead
• Tin
• Inconel 600 (active)
• Nickel (active)
• Hastelloy B (active)
• Brasses
• Copper
• Manganese Bronze , Tin Bronze (
• Nickel Silver
• Copper - Nickel Alloy 90-10
• Copper - Nickel Alloy 80-20
• Stainless Steel 430
• Nickel, Aluminum, Bronze
• Monel
• Silver Solder
• Nickel (passive)
• 60 Ni- 15 Cr (passive)
• Inconel 600 (passive)
• 80 Ni- 20 Cr (passive)
• Chrome Iron (passive)
• Stainless Steel 302, 303, 304, 321, 347,(PASSIVE)
• Stainless Steel 316, 317,(PASSIVE)
• Incoloy 825nickel - Molybdeum - Chromium
• Iron Alloy (passive)
• Silver
• Titanium (pass.) Hastelloy C (passive)
• Inconel 625(pass.)
• Graphite
• Zirconium
• Gold
• Platinum
• 
  Cathodic Most Noble.

This galvanic series of metals lists common materials in order of their electrical potential relative to a recognized standard. Materials widely separated on this list will rapidly corrode in the presence of electolyte (e.g. Seawater) when in electrical contact, the anodic material suffering rapid material loss. Materials close together on this list will suffer less damage due to corrosion.

Galvanic corrosion is driven by the voltage potential between two electrically connected conductors ( To minimize this form of attack, materials in electrical contact, if required, should be selected so as to minimize their relative potential.

Click to expand...

Very interesting, so if aluminium is so close to mild steel and high strength steel why does it rot so badly? Also everyone, I've had a long email conversation with YRM and they say that stainless steel is just as strong as high tensile steel so long as you get the right one so now I guess it's just down to whether or not the erodes the **** out of my Land Rover? Or is that just sales talk? I guess the extra cost should really be crossing my mind too haha

Adam Rose-Alison said:

Very interesting, so if aluminium is so close to mild steel and high strength steel why does it rot so badly? Also everyone, I've had a long email conversation with YRM and they say that stainless steel is just as strong as high tensile steel so long as you get the right one so now I guess it's just down to whether or not the erodes the **** out of my Land Rover? Or is that just sales talk? I guess the extra cost should really be crossing my mind too haha

Click to expand...

I've just re read your post and answered my own question haha

Also, slightly off topic but went and bought some new tools today from Halfords..turns out fine wood work and guitar building tools aren't made for Land Rover work..who knew! Torque wrench and a bigger set of sockets (my ones I already have are tiny)...I know there gonna round off bolt heads if I'm not careful but it's a start, next up is some proper hex sockets

Ok so I've spent a riotous Saturday evening in making a full list of parts I need to get this project done in the 3 week target, I've left out some glaringly obvious stuff like doors, hinges because I can do that any time after the re chassis and re build is done... here goes..

Fuel tank parts
- [ ] 300 tdi fuel sender and feed and return pipes front and rear
- [ ] Td5 fuel cradle and ss fitting kit OR armour
- [ ] Gasket for sender unit
- [ ] Feed filter neck and breather
(Everything here is just words that came out of my machanics mouth...no idea what any of it is so please elaborate! All I know is we're going for a TD5 fuel tank because it won't rot out like mine has, the chassis has td5 rear for it, don't worry! Anyway he's dealing with all of that).

Mechanical parts
- [ ] All Silicon pipes
- [ ] Rebuilt gear and transfer box
- [ ] Galvanised exhaust mounts

Axels, wheels, breaks
- [ ] Old man emu springs, shocks (medium duty, standard hight...I can barely park in car parks let along if I lift it haha)
- [ ] Heavy duty galvanised turrets (best brand to go for?)
- [ ] Branded break hoses (any links to standard length hoses that aren't **** part?)

Body work
- [ ] Full bolt kit- stainless steel, high tensile steel, aluminium rivets (finalising this this YRM atm)
- [ ] Full paint set (the paint man, anyone got any experience with them?)
- [x] Galvanised bulk head (ordered from Ashtree restoration already)
- [ ] Bulk head plugs MTC1650, MRC1300, 338015
- [ ] Bonnet seal LR053843
- [ ] Tub seals
- [ ] Roof seals
- [ ] Alpine window seals
- [ ] Door seals
- [ ] Bulk head to window surround seal
- [ ] Galvanised tub cappings
- [ ] All new tub floors
- [ ] All new tub under supports
- [ ] New floor crossmember NRC4171GALV
- [ ] Tub mounting brackets NRC7053, NRC5665, NRC4693 ?NRC4661?
- [ ] Driver side rear panel end ( @Flossie you were right, rotted out.....)
- [ ] One big can of Drualac

Security
- [ ] Pedal lock
- [ ] Window smash proofing
- [ ] Tracker
- [ ] Uprated locks (anyone got any good advice?)
- [ ] Big **** off dog

If I've missed anything please let me know, I really don't wanna find them after it's in pieces... haha

Cheers guys

I fitted britpart BRAKE hoses 14 yrs ago and have just replaced them all as the rear one was showing signs of cracking.
TD5 tank is plastic yours is tin and they do rot so that's a good upgrade.
Oh..And the brake hoses didn't come with the nuts, other types might but britpart didn't, nuts were dirt cheap though.

Hi chaps! Sorry for the radio silence..been working non stop on the furniture company in involved with, www.lignae.co.uk take a look if you can, I'd love to get some feed back!

Anyway, much more interestingly things are almost there for the 110 rebuild. I've sourced much better condition rear tub side panels as mine really had had it, bought the full tub building kit from YRM, got most of the right bolt and fixings, the galvanised bulkhead has turned up from ashtree restorations, got the silicon pipe work, seals for everything and on and on. The links you guys listed above have been a HUGE help thanks!

So on Saturday just gone me, my girlfriend Sara and some other mates started work on the galvanised parts, steam cleaned, soaped and then cleaned again and are now all being T-washed ready for the massive order of paint I've put in with www.buzzweld.com, I was recommended them by the chap I bought the rear tub parts off, and apparently it's the bomb...but time will tell! I'm gonna try and document the rebuild as much as possible as I'm sure rebuilds alway go down a treat

Love the stuff on the website, up a level or three from my woodworking.

Looking at you last picture though - has someone forgotten the veneer on that coat hook rail?

Aaaannnd back on to topic, look forward to following the rest of your project.

boguing said:

Love the stuff on the website, up a level or three from my woodworking.

Looking at you last picture though - has someone forgotten the veneer on that coat hook rail?

Aaaannnd back on to topic, look forward to following the rest of your project.

Click to expand...

Dam you noticed! Haha yeah it's all coming together now, got the tub side panels back from the shot blasters, so just getting ready for paint!

So a question for all you galvanise nuts, I've steamed, soaped, washed then t washed then jet washed again
the chassis and now it's looking great apart from the white patches? It's not coming off at all, so is it ok to just paint straight over it or is it time to buy more t wash and do it all again?
Cheers!
Adam

I shall summon @aaronmorris for you. He's got way more experience of galvanising than I have.

Hi everyone, sorry I've not been able to do more posts up to this point...been to busy rebuilding landrovers!

So since the last post we've stripped my 1994 110 CSW and found some 'interesting' stuff. Mud from when Oasis when in the charts, more rust than actual chassis, a one pound coin from 1994 that was blue from corrosion...along with some rather upset spiders in the roof that must have been in there from when Blair was elected. To say the least I'm glad I've decided to do this protect now and not just before MOT because this is beyond repair..how it passed the past two I've no idea. The mid cross member came out in two pieces, the b posts just fell away at the back, you could se day light through the tub floor etc etc..

Also here's the update on the new galv chassis, in the end I re t washed it to as gray as I could get it, jet washed it, soap and sponged it then got to work with 2K aroumor pant I bought from www.buzzweld.com. It took some time getting hear but **** me does it do the job, I had a chat on the phone with Craig form buzzweld and ended up ordering £1000+ of his paint, got everything to fully reprint and protect my 110. Turns out the company is really taking off now (hence why my paint took a while to arrive) but I can see why, it's like how my Dad describes what hammerite was like 'back in the day' I highly, highly recommend it.

I've also got to work on the old rear tub sides I bought, started the patch work on where the seat beats were now there back from the shot blasters, plus my galv tub cappings have arrived from YRM so there also being prepped and applied. Everyspot there's mixed metal there's a liberal amount of duralac painted on...I'm going belt and braces on this project seeming is its a full ground up rebuild