I'm getting the rear axle ready for painting and after a whole evening spent getting the seized brake drums off I've discovered one of them was full of grease. I stripped down the hub expecting to find a shredded oil seal but there's nothing obvious. The only thing that was damaged was the spacer which I suspect got a bit mashed when the nuts were undone. The stub axle seems to have a bit of corrosion which could be the problem?

Here's the hub with what looks like a perfectly serviceable oil seal. Should the bearing be slopping about loose in there? It seems a bit weird but I don't know how they're supposed to be! There's no play or noise when it's all in place. I'd rather not strip it all down if it's working but maybe I should be doing a full rebuild anyway while it's off. Is it possible to do this with just a vice?


Here's the stub axle. The photo makes it look worse that it feels to the touch.

Any suggestions welcome. Thanks.

The bearings will be loose in the hub when not on the axle and the nut and lock nut or stake nut [ depending on model year ] done up the correct amount. The seal land on the stub axle looks poor with a groove worn into it and needs to be replaced. Does sound that the bearings are ok but replace the seal as is likely damaged by the poor land and should be replaced.
The bearings are taper roller type and it is important they are set the correct amount, not to much, not to little.
You need a workshop manual available as a book or download on line.

When I took mine off the rubber seal within the spacer was wrong, rotated 10deg or so. Looked like it’d happened last time it was put back together meaning every time I waded water must have got in and out of the bearings. Could be something as simple as this, suppose best thing is just to clean it out and reassemble.

stub axle I agree looks worn. Pic of mine up which I replaced, I don’t think they are expensive.

Huddy84, that seal has nothing to do with keeping water out, that is done by the rear seal, flange gasket and axle cap. Its job is to keep the grease in the hub and not let it migrate out down the axle tube. Series and earlier 90/110 did not have that seal as hub was lubricated by oil from the axle [ a better system in my opinion ] Check axle breather is clear as cooling an axle as it goes into water contracts the air inside resulting in suction that sucks water in past the seals if breather is blocked. Also will get in past damaged or worn seals.
I also notice you have rather short wheel studs suggesting this hub may be a mix of different age parts.

tottot said:

The bearings will be loose in the hub when not on the axle and the nut and lock nut or stake nut [ depending on model year ] done up the correct amount. The seal land on the stub axle looks poor with a groove worn into it and needs to be replaced. Does sound that the bearings are ok but replace the seal as is likely damaged by the poor land and should be replaced.
The bearings are taper roller type and it is important they are set the correct amount, not to much, not to little.
You need a workshop manual available as a book or download on line.

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Thanks. I'll get a new stub axle and seal ordered. Just need to work out whether I need FRC3132 or FRC8540. Any thoughts on which I'd need for a K-reg 90 with no trace of a code to be found on the axle?

tottot said:

I also notice you have rather short wheel studs suggesting this hub may be a mix of different age parts.

Click to expand...

Or he has Wolf wheels on there.

You should fit new inner and outer seals and oil seal track spacer. Not sure of no's, sure someone else will help.

Speedi sleeve by SKF will restore the seal lands to new. Easier and cheaper

My studs are short for standard LWB wheels. I have Wolf wheels fitted with the higher wheel nut torque. Hubs are standard rear drum brake style.

New seals and stub axles should fix any leaking issues, I’ve done all 4 corners now. Just watch which way round seals go in, I’ve done one wrong I’ll have to go back and change at some point.