Liner or Cam wear?

  • Liner

    Votes: 2 15.4%
  • Cam

    Votes: 3 23.1%
  • Fecked Follower

    Votes: 5 38.5%
  • Tick what tick? Wait, where's me hearing aid?

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Who cares? You bought a P38 cheap what do you expect?

    Votes: 3 23.1%

  • Total voters
    13
If you're taking the heads off I've got your tool for the front pulley if you want to borrow it back!

Plus the correct size socket in two depths for tightening the head bolts back up. And a dial gauge and other bits you need for the job. And a proper accurate machined straight edge and feeler gauges to check your head for warp. Cost me a fortune, only used once, and you're welcome to borrow the lot if you need it.

You'll have to speak to @Grrrrrr though, all my tools are at his house for safe keeping whilst I'm away!
Hey Al, Great to hear from you and I am glad your plans are coming to fruition.

I was thinking the exact same thing yesterday 'I wonder if Al and his bro still have that tool and if I could borrow it?!'

Its great to hear you do, and even greater to hear I could have a lend if needed, you and your brother are stars.

Keep in touch and enjoy your adventures my friend.
 
Your lucky u know what your doin saint I had that bloody ticking noise and swore blind it was exhaust manifold even pulled up one day and asked a couple of fitters outside a garage but mine was more of a blow and clicking grrrr said straight away head gasket he was right
 
I was thinking the exact same thing yesterday 'I wonder if Al and his bro still have that tool and if I could borrow it?!'

When do you need it, Saint? I know where your front pulley tool is as it is hanging in the garage. I've just had to make another whole garage length of shelves to house MrGorsky's tools he so kindly lent me while he was off globe-trotting. So the straight edge will be in there somewhere.
 
Sorry for the long delay but I am struggling for time to get things rocking....

This afternoon at lunch time, I decided to get stuck in to remove the Drivers Side Head.....hmmmmmmmm

Heatsheild bolts are stubborn as feck, so I thought 'I know, I'll remove the head with the manifold attached' so I undid the 3 downpipe bolts - no probs.

Began to undo the head bolts....now I am a big chap, and me and my breaker bar have never found a bolt we couldn't undo together....but by feck these bolts are tight, now here's the kick in the teeth, not only did I crack the side off of my thick walled 5/8" 6point socket on one of the bolts - and not a cheap one either! - but on two of the headbolts that site close to the exhaust manifold, I can't get the socket on square as the manifold has a slip protrusion on it that partially blocks the bolt head.....oh, and one of the bolts is slightly rounded off, this I think I can manage, but I need to get the heatshield off and remove the manifold so I can get good purchase....

Out with the grinder I think.....bloody thing!
 
I would Cut the heatshields off and headwrap the manifolds..

The 'orrible tin feckers are more trouble than they're worth!!


But i'm sure you'll have it beaten into submission in no time ;)
 
I did that and it's bin fine. The heatwraps nasty stuff though. Sometimes sockets get metal fatigue. Esp if you use them with impacters!
 
You can chisel the f*ckers in extremis. You won't be the first to lose it with them!
 
Just a couple of pictures showing the protrusion that is blocking access to the head bolts.....looks like I am going to have to get manly with the heatshield bolts!

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_SMALL_DSC03023.jpg
 
Todays efforts produced limited results....

I managed to get both exhaust manifolds off, I have worked on Range Rover engines for many years, but these were some of the most stubborn Heat Shield bolts....managed to get one side off OK, the other I just tore the thing to pieces!

So, onto Head Bolts......Now I am a big chap, and you'd think with a 900mm long power/breaker bar, 24 stone and some huff and puff, the head bolts would just roll over and give up wouldn't you?? Not these little feckers, as I said above, I have worked on Range Rover engines for a good long while now, but I have never known head bolts to be so sodding tight before, Even the rusted to feck bolts on an engine that hadn't run for well over 12 years and were basically fossils of their former selves came out with no dramas!

I managed to get one head off - and have found nothing untoward and it is all really rather nice in there!

But on the other head - 3 bolts have cracked 4 of my sockets, one is an impact socket!.....as I said, a 900mm bar and me giving it large should be enough to shift them...but all they did was crack the sockets, then round off.....BAR-STEWARDS

So, I am left with 3 bolts that have rounded off and that is all that is needed to remove the other head!

Any one have any opinions on Irwins Bolt Grips on head bolts before - I know they are considered the dogs danglies on bolts (otherwise), but what about fecking stupid tight head bolts!?

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20180721_181458.jpg
 
The Old headgaskets look nice ;)

I've had success with Irwins bolt extractors on rather tight suspension bolts, however i don't know if they'd cope with Headbolts!
especially ones that are are seized solid!

H
 
We snapped my socket on MrGorsky's head bolts too. And his. Got a feeling we got the real solid one out using Irwin grips but may have loosened a bit first. I replace the socket with a Teng one off the Bay.
 
So, onto Head Bolts......Now I am a big chap, and you'd think with a 900mm long power/breaker bar, 24 stone and some huff and puff.
But on the other head - 3 bolts have cracked 4 of my sockets, one is an impact socket!.....as I said, a 900mm bar and me giving it large should be enough to shift them...but all they did was crack the sockets, then round off.....BAR-STEWARDS.

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That's a mighty effort @Saint.V8 to break an impact socket, especially by hand.
The rounded heads may be "head friction bound", if so, you may need to use a angle grinder and 1mm thick cutting disc to cut the heads of the bolts off, slip the heads off then use a shank grip type stud remover to turn the remnants out.
It'll be a bugga if that's not the problem area, good luck.
 
^^^ Had to do that some years ago on a non LR car. Drilled rather than a disc but once the bolt heads were off & the head lifted off the remains came out with little effort.
 
Todays efforts produced limited results....

I managed to get both exhaust manifolds off, I have worked on Range Rover engines for many years, but these were some of the most stubborn Heat Shield bolts....managed to get one side off OK, the other I just tore the thing to pieces!

So, onto Head Bolts......Now I am a big chap, and you'd think with a 900mm long power/breaker bar, 24 stone and some huff and puff, the head bolts would just roll over and give up wouldn't you?? Not these little feckers, as I said above, I have worked on Range Rover engines for a good long while now, but I have never known head bolts to be so sodding tight before, Even the rusted to feck bolts on an engine that hadn't run for well over 12 years and were basically fossils of their former selves came out with no dramas!

I managed to get one head off - and have found nothing untoward and it is all really rather nice in there!

But on the other head - 3 bolts have cracked 4 of my sockets, one is an impact socket!.....as I said, a 900mm bar and me giving it large should be enough to shift them...but all they did was crack the sockets, then round off.....BAR-STEWARDS

So, I am left with 3 bolts that have rounded off and that is all that is needed to remove the other head!

Any one have any opinions on Irwins Bolt Grips on head bolts before - I know they are considered the dogs danglies on bolts (otherwise), but what about fecking stupid tight head bolts!?



@Saint.V8


Wished to say some outstanding work there

Ref the irwins, I’ve used them on the end of a 2 x foot breaker bar and been ok , there’s 3 x different sets of irwins according to size

There also designed to be used with impact guns

Apologises as I doubt that’s much help

Oh and if it’s any use here’s a link of all the different sets available

https://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/screw-bolt-extractors/bolt-extractors

Ps , remember having a bad ticking noise years ago on an old engine and found some of the valve springs were weakening and not quite pressing hard against the tappets , that was my theory anyway , lol , I’ll get my coat as I know you’ve got a lot more knowledge than myself, lol

Would u ever fit a high lift cam in these or not worth it

Apologises asking the daft questions
 
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Todays efforts produced limited results....

I managed to get both exhaust manifolds off, I have worked on Range Rover engines for many years, but these were some of the most stubborn Heat Shield bolts....managed to get one side off OK, the other I just tore the thing to pieces!

So, onto Head Bolts......Now I am a big chap, and you'd think with a 900mm long power/breaker bar, 24 stone and some huff and puff, the head bolts would just roll over and give up wouldn't you?? Not these little feckers, as I said above, I have worked on Range Rover engines for a good long while now, but I have never known head bolts to be so sodding tight before, Even the rusted to feck bolts on an engine that hadn't run for well over 12 years and were basically fossils of their former selves came out with no dramas!

I managed to get one head off - and have found nothing untoward and it is all really rather nice in there!

But on the other head - 3 bolts have cracked 4 of my sockets, one is an impact socket!.....as I said, a 900mm bar and me giving it large should be enough to shift them...but all they did was crack the sockets, then round off.....BAR-STEWARDS

So, I am left with 3 bolts that have rounded off and that is all that is needed to remove the other head!

Any one have any opinions on Irwins Bolt Grips on head bolts before - I know they are considered the dogs danglies on bolts (otherwise), but what about fecking stupid tight head bolts!?

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hit the bolt heads hard keep doing till they undo,i use snap-on irwin type sockets they do work but can split
 

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