Ianwallace
Active Member
No what difference would that make
dashwoodlandy
Member
Ian, were you in low range?
If it is wet grass, then the only thing that will get you out is momentum or very aggressive tyre treads (which you don't want day to day), I doubt there is anything wrong with your 4WD system as you would know if the viscous coupling was going wrong.
I have to be honest and say perhaps the terrain is beyond the car and drivers capabilities. (trying to be diplomatic).
If it is wet grass, then the only thing that will get you out is momentum or very aggressive tyre treads (which you don't want day to day), I doubt there is anything wrong with your 4WD system as you would know if the viscous coupling was going wrong.
I have to be honest and say perhaps the terrain is beyond the car and drivers capabilities. (trying to be diplomatic).
Ianwallace
Active Member
Hi dashwoodlandy
The entrance of the field has a few concrete block all smashed up then the whole field is short wet grass. As I had to walk to the hives the ground felt a little bogie under ones feet
I entered the field in normal "D" I didn't use the left hand side of the h gate as I was told not to by other members on hear.
I got my car in half way and grounded to a halt and both front wheels stuck in and the wheels started to shudder but I didn't notice the TC light flickering?
At this time I just put it into reverse and pulled out the entrance and got out and walked.
I've have had no problems with my old trooper. Wishing I never got rid of it
The entrance of the field has a few concrete block all smashed up then the whole field is short wet grass. As I had to walk to the hives the ground felt a little bogie under ones feet
I entered the field in normal "D" I didn't use the left hand side of the h gate as I was told not to by other members on hear.
I got my car in half way and grounded to a halt and both front wheels stuck in and the wheels started to shudder but I didn't notice the TC light flickering?
At this time I just put it into reverse and pulled out the entrance and got out and walked.
I've have had no problems with my old trooper. Wishing I never got rid of it
dashwoodlandy
Member
Ian
Who told you not to use low range on one of the hardest surfaces a 4wd can encounter, I would have selected low range 3rd gear, lifted the suspension and then given it some medium welly (enough to keep you moving at all times) but not enough to spin the wheels, I am not a fan of TC as it requires a lot of wheelspin to kick in, I prefer to just judge the surface and incline/decline and give the appropriate power.
I would check that your low range works before having another go, the RR is more than capable of handling flat wet boggy grass, but high range may cause the wheels to spin to much, I have never found TC to be useful on wet grass.
Who told you not to use low range on one of the hardest surfaces a 4wd can encounter, I would have selected low range 3rd gear, lifted the suspension and then given it some medium welly (enough to keep you moving at all times) but not enough to spin the wheels, I am not a fan of TC as it requires a lot of wheelspin to kick in, I prefer to just judge the surface and incline/decline and give the appropriate power.
I would check that your low range works before having another go, the RR is more than capable of handling flat wet boggy grass, but high range may cause the wheels to spin to much, I have never found TC to be useful on wet grass.
Ianwallace
Active Member
Someone earlier on on this thread. As far as I know you can't turn off TC? How can I test my low range works
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
have you jacked up a front wheel and see if it spins
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
depends on surface but as high a gear as feasible on slippery ground allowing for enough revs
dashwoodlandy
Member
Ian, you don't need to ten the TC off, it will only work if the wheels are spinning, the trick is not to get them spinning in the first place.
To check low range, just move the gear lever over to low range 4th and pull away, you should have much slower speeds with the same revs compared to high range.
To check your viscous coupling follow this link, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XddClDAIfXw
To check low range, just move the gear lever over to low range 4th and pull away, you should have much slower speeds with the same revs compared to high range.
To check your viscous coupling follow this link, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XddClDAIfXw
dashwoodlandy
Member
Anyone know the ratio comparisons between high and low on an auto, I only drive manuals, I know that 3rd gear low is equivalent to 1st gear high on a manual R380, but I don't have a clue when it comes to the P38 autos.
Ianwallace
Active Member
I haven't jacked the car up and see if the wheel spins. I will do this at the weekend. I will follow the link also. Thank you guys
Ianwallace
Active Member
Does it matter which front wheel to turn?
dashwoodlandy
Member
no
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
no, if it spins you have a front axle issue
The P38 is more than capable to deal with what you have encountered I would say....
In the years I have owned a few and have not yet got bogged down going across a muddy Bisley Century Range (in the days they let your drive on there) similarly with the Classics too.....
I'd be checking the Viscous Coupling unit as suggested!
In the years I have owned a few and have not yet got bogged down going across a muddy Bisley Century Range (in the days they let your drive on there) similarly with the Classics too.....
I'd be checking the Viscous Coupling unit as suggested!
dashwoodlandy
Member
A common problem with the Range Rover BW transfer case is a "seized viscous coupling". This can easily be identified by the effect it has on cornering, the tyres will "chirp" or "scrub", as the vehicle is effectively permanently in diff lock. As a confirming check, put transfer case in "neutral", handbrake on, jack up one front wheel and try to turn it, it should turn slowly with resistance, if locked solid the viscous coupling is seized, and will need changing before any damage to the diffs or CV joints occur.
As I think others have said, Low (left-hand of the gate) in 3 seems to work best in those conditions. I wouldn't worry about pressing the "manual" button. Feathering the throttle can help: effectively stepping on and off the throttle all the time as if you're tapping your foot to Buddy Rich. Acts a bit like a primitive traction control.
As I think Datatek mentioned, the more modern 4x4s have limited-slip differentials which helps. The old Landys had proper locking diffs and I think the Kamlocker diffs are the way to go here. I think it works out at about £1500 for both front and rear for a P38.
I have a friend who lives down in Calne. Been meaning to visit for ages. Maybe I'll make the effort and come see my friend and your field. At least we'll have someone to talk to if we both get stuck! Plus, I've got a winch in the boot!
dashwoodlandy
Member
I quite fancy seeing this field now, I think we should all meet up and have a look at this field and call it a group meeting.
As far as checking the Viscous coupling, if it turns it means it isn't seized.
Traction control was only on rear wheels prior to about 1999.
I don't think it would help much unless you have plenty of momentum going already.
The problem with muddy fields is that momentum is one thing you don't want too much of. I turned right across a sloping field I was climbing in the rain a few weeks back and suddenly found myself in a 4-wheel toboggan going sideways (all wheels locked) down a steep hill towards a bank with big trees at the bottom, think rolling with no roll-cage and then smash! Bit of an arse twitching moment. Power brought the front of the car round and then with low 1 I was able to slide / steer the car back across to the track I came up and make a "controlled" descent. Heart was going for a bit afterwards though.
I think we were going to meet in Gaydon but I'm happy with Wiltshire if there's a tricky field to conquer! Stonehenge nearby and Avebury. Bound to be some nice pubs around.
